2LV8ETR

Yo man, real leather. I'm very happy with the quality and so are the other two. For the price, you can't beat them.

I got mine from here. Good fit and quality. I've recommended them to 2 other people who were also stoked. Black - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-...93%3A1|294%3A50 Red - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-...93%3A1|294%3A50 White - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-SKYLINE-GTS-...93%3A1|294%3A50 Enjoy!

The trick to better cooling is wider tubes. This increases the tube to fin contact area, which determines the radiator efficiency. A typical copper radiator uses approximately 10mm wide tubes while aluminium radiators use tubes approximately 25mm wide. The wider the tubes, the more surface area is available for fins which increase cooling capacity. When a radiator is designed with wide tubes, the tubing wall thickness must be increased to prevent the tube from expanding or a term known as ballooning. Designing a brass/copper radiator with wide tubes is not practical because the radiators could weigh as much as 30kg. Lighter weight aluminium can be designed with a heavier wall thickness with very little effect on weight. In addition, aluminium has high heat dissipation properties. Take for example a typical Skyline OEM radiator, granted the construction is of aluminium and plastic but the overall core size is pitiful in comparison to an aftermarket radiator. The more surface area, the more efficient the cooling. If you're not having cooling issues, remain with the stock radiator. But if you have a need to replace it, by all means take the bigger aftermarket radiator.

Did mine and had it passed no problems at all.

Same in WA.

Exhaust, fuel pump, FMIC, filter, crank up boost.

Yes mate they are. The only difference is the nylon cap at the bottom is bigger in the 25 box. You can get them from Nissan though.

Using a full atmo BOV will disrupt the signal to the AFM and cause over-fuelling. If you really want a BOV, buy a hybrid which recirculates and vents to atmo which helps with the stalling issue, but doesn't entirely eliminate it. Another thing is if you can get hold of one, HKS make an EIDS (Electronic IDle Stabiliser) which buffers dramatic AFM signal fluctuations. By buffering these fluctuations the EIDS prevents stalling associated with sudden imbalances in the air/fuel ratio of vehicles that use an atmo BOV.

Did you try, or is there room for a magnetic pick up tool?

Greets man. Give Desmond from AutoFX a call on 0412 034 861. He'll come to you. He did a good job on mine. Later.

I wasn't aware there was a circuit car. Do you have a link with any info on it? I've been following the progress of TWO 06L and I'd be interested in the circuit car too. Thanks.

Try these: http://www.tradebit.com/filesharing.php?in...4&filtercat http://www.skyline.se/dokument/ http://skylineownersusa.com/files/r34servicesupplement.pdf

Not with the 555cc's. But for high power applications FPR's are a must. While the pump provides fuel flow, the FPR will hold a given amount of pressure at the fuel rail. This is of course limited to the fuel pump used. The fuel pump must be able to supply the amount of fuel required by all the injectors in wide open throttle (WOT) conditions at the maximum boost level anticipated. A 20% safety margin (that is, the pump can supply 20% more fuel than is actually required) is often needed to avoid overheating the pump or a momentary lean mixture (and possible damage to pistons, valves, or rings). If the fuel pump is not up to the task, then the pressure will not be present at the rail, thus limiting the injector efficiency. As the fuel pressure can impact on the amount of fuel discharged throughout the injector cycle it is vital that this pressure is kept constant and with this aim excess fuel is sent back to the fuel tank through the fuel return circuit located within the regulator.

Where abouts are you Tom?

The NisMo 555cc should be good for between 260-330kw. My belief is that you are running them close to their full potential. Go the 700cc if your budget will allow you to eat. The only disadvantage with an FPR is that sometimes heat will cause them to crap out. This of course depends on the brand. The Malpassi rising rate FRP's are known for this. Keep it away from your exhaust manifold (The fuel lines are in the intake side) and you should be good.

Greets man. It's not so much the power that'll kill it, but the way it's handled. You can take a stock RB20DET, spool her up to 8000rpm, sidestep it and lunch the box. You can also drop a 400kw RB30DET in front of it, drive like Miss Daisy's in the back and she'll live a long life. If you blow an RB20DET box with the way you drive, then I suggest an RB25DET conversion.

It happened to me a few times too. When someone asks for a quick "how much is it going to cost?", my reply is always to say that without sitting down and working it out it's roughly $XXXX. I prefer to sit down and work things out but now I have learned to overestimate the cost by 20% when answering verbally to avoid disappointment simply because I don't like to let people down. I don't know the guy but I'm sure he didn't mean to stuff you around man. Hopefully a little lesson learned on both sides here which is to sit down and work it out to avoid disappointment. Good luck with the rest of the build.

It's a sneaky little bastard, it likes to hide. They are like crickets man, if you make a noise when you approach it it will be shut up and play possum.... The best way to find it mate is jack the car up and slide under the car. You'll see it better without all of the engine components in the way.

Jim is a magician. I have seen and heard of the miracles performed at CRD. Way to go!

The only way to really tone it down is to replace the factory airbox and put in a performance panel filter. Many guys are running this setup and are very happy with the results. The factory airbox will dampen the induction noise unlike the open filter that you are currently using.

Greets man. I've found a link that may help a little: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&p=868393

I've had this gremlin twice and both times it was something different. The first time was a dirty AFM. The second time was a loose wire on the ECU connector harness.

Series 2 coilpacks have the igniters built in to them. You shouldn't run them on a Series 1 engine. If you have a mate with a Series 1, borrow his coilpacks and see what happens.

There goes my theory on a gearbox oil leak. My second guess is what Cam84 suggested which is an engine oil leak with the smoke penetrating through the trans tunnel. It'll be reletively easy to find, and also check your parking area for spotting.

What's your oil level like?