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The 2530 is your best option if it's open to you. I went a different route and had a custom built turbo made to cater for my needs, but I was chasing big power. The RB20 torque response is a pain in the butt due to the short stroke, but if you get the combination of supporting mods, gearing, and driver technique right, you will easily achieve the power figures you are chasing. Good luck man.

That's about right too. My Sards were rated at 140hp per injector.

Haha! Jinx!

What suburb are you in man?

One of the rules of life - "Never Fu#$ with another man's vehicle". 5 minutes alone with the bastards responsible would be a bonus. So sorry to see the poor girl like that man, I hope the insurance side of things works out.

+1. Take your time and do the 30 properly. With money being no object, there's a lot that you can pour into it that will squeeze the scrote once fitted, as you'll soon get used to the power of the 20 and want more. Thus is the trap with performance cars - The money pit factor.

Renegade could also be right and it's easy to check for. Take the steering wheel off and see if the lobes are intact. Usually though, one side will wear quicker than the other so it will cancel one way, but not the other. When it won't cancel at all, it's usually the stalk. Call Nissan and ask for a price on a replacement stalk - Make sure you're sitting down first. Then call a wrecker and ask for the same thing. You'll see why a lot of import owners learn to do their own repairs.

Just buy another from a Jap wrecker and replace it. Would probably work out cheaper than getting Nissan to do it.

Sorry man, this one isn't what I've got. Mine's a mutt which is why it's referred to as a hybrid (not to be confused with the brand HYBRID), and has been made from the ground up with a variety of components. It consists of a T3 stage 3 turbine trim, and a T04E compressor trim, and ball bearing shaft. When you look at the $3500+/- price tag of a brand new 480hp HKS 3037S Pro which is what I wanted originally, mine was a cheap 500hp alternative at only $2300.

Damn shame man. Will keep a beadle out for her.

Paul, I dunno about eBay but mine was created by Grant Bojanjac at Per4manz. His work scored 1 world record & 5 national records last season with his turbo’s. Definitely not cheap China knock-off crap. Per4manz Like I said, very happy camper.

Yup, I got a T3/T4 hybrid and I'm stoked with it. I've been running 28 psi on it with no hassles at all for a couple of years now in an RB20DET. She comes on at 2700 and screams to the redline. For what they are they're cheap and reliable. Thumbs up from me.

These help: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/D-Project-STEERING-...0430128001r1230

If it's snapped inside the firewall where it connects to the lever, you can usually cut a bit of the casing back to expose the cable and grab it with some pliers and yank it.

Any good auto store will carry them. Take a sample in and you should be able to pick them up. In WA here we have Mal's and Super Cheap that I have seen carry them. Nissan is also an option but be prepared to bend over and grab your ankles when you ask for a price.

I can't understand the compression dropping on all 6!? Maybe it's a fluke and the compression tester crapped out on him. Maybe try it on another vehicle?? As far as fuelled up plugs go, to me that points to ignition. Maybe the ignitor? Doesn't seem to me that she should go like that so easily.

This should help: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3965537

The Z32 AFM is needed when you chase higher power, as the standard one can't cope with the measurement of the higher air flow. Your RB25 AFM will be running out of tuning capability by about 320hp. The Z32 will let you carry on if you want up to 420hp (+/- 20hp) Once your tuner says that the stock AFM maxes out, it's then time for an upgrade.

The ignition system was changed with the Series II. The ignition module was no longer located on the cam covers and was instead replaced by the improved ignition coils and ECU. I believe you will find that the ECU is different as well as the ECU puts out a positive pulse rather than a negative of the usual setup. The ECU is different to that of the Series I to compensate for the different ignition system among other things. As for determining the physical difference between the two packs I cannot say. I would suspect that the Series II would be a bulkier item than the Series I. If you had one of each I'm sure you'd be able to tell. Sorry man, that's the limit of my knowledge......

There are 2 Splitfire types for the R33: SF-DIS005 RB25DET SF-DIS008 RB25DET 6/97 onwards The difference between the RB25DET series 1 and series 2 Splitfire coil packs are the igniters. The series 1 have separate igniters, where the series 2 are built in. This should answer your question.

Yup, they're illegal everywhere. Most of the upgrades you do are so why not spacers? If you want to stay legal man, I suggest a new set of rims with the correct offset.

Use hub spacers. End of issue.

Remove all of the other wheel nuts, then turn the wheel so that the problem child is at the bottom. Put the brace onto the nut and pull pressure on the top of the wheel and turn the brace to undo the nut. If this won't do it for you, try one of two things. 1: Use a die grinder to remove the nut if you have the room to maneuver it in the recess. 2: Drill the center of the thread out with progressively larger bits until the stud breaks.

No. Degreaser leaves a residue. Carby cleaner doesn't.

Try this. It's a GT-R front bar for a Gts-t. http://www.veilside.com.au/product_details...id=NSGTS91GTRFB