2LV8ETR

Mine too. AFM was dirty. Give it a spray with carby cleaner. Try this first and see how you go.

Try this. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=2143614

Bleed the master cylinder first, then the slave.

+1. I use a T3/T4 modified hybrid turbo and I'm very happy with the results. It's cheap, pushes 28psi and hasn't failed in 4 years. Comes on at 2700 and screams to the redline.

Double check your fuel line connections. Remove the access panel in the boot, turn the car on and watch for leaks.

The GT-R and Gts-4 ATTESA utilises what is mostly a conventional RWD gearbox. Although exclusively AWD, ATTESA-ETS is also used in Nissan models that are also available as RWD such as the A31 Cefiro which was the second Nissan to feature the system exactly a year later in August 1990. Drive to the rear wheels is constant via a tailshaft and rear differential, however drive to the front wheels is more complex by utilising a transfer case at the rear of the gearbox. The drive for the front wheels comes from a transfer case bolted on the end of an almost traditional RWD transmission although the bell housing is slightly different to allow the driveshaft for the front wheels to pass it, the main body is exactly the same as the RWD transmission, the tail-shaft is different to couple to the transfer case. A short driveshaft for the front wheels exits the transfer case on the right side. Inside the transfer case a chain drives a multi-plate wet clutch pack. Torque is apportioned using a clutch pack center differential. On the rear differential is a high pressure electric oil pump, this pump pressurises Normal ATF oil (0-288psi) into the transfer case to engage the clutch pack. The higher the oil pressure the transfer case is supplied with, the more the clutch pack engages, this is how the torque to the front wheels is varied. The front driveshaft runs along the right side of the transmission, into a differential located on the right of the engine's sump. The front right axle is shorter than the left, as the differential is closer to the right wheel. The front left axle runs through the engine's sump to the left wheel. The ATTESA-ETS layout is more advanced than the ATTESA system, and uses a 16bit microprocessor that monitors the cars movements at 100 times per second to sense traction loss by measuring the speed of each wheel via the ABS sensors. A three axis G-Sensor mounted underneath the center console feed lateral and longitudinal inputs into an ECU, which controls both the ATTESA-ETS 4WD system and the ABS system. The ECU can then direct up to and including 50% of the power to the front wheels. When slip is detected on one of the rear wheels (rear wheels turn 5% or more than the front wheels), the system directs torque to the front wheels which run a viscous LSD. Rather than locking the AWD in all the time or having a system that is "all or nothing", the ATTESA-ETS system can apportion different ratios of torque to the front wheels as it sees fit. This provides the driver with an AWD vehicle that performs like a rear wheel drive vehicle in perfect conditions and can recover control when conditions aren't as perfect. The advantage to a more traditional ATTESA (Viscous LSD) system is response in hundredths of a second. Most vehicle manufacturers refer to this system as constant due to the fact that there is no in-cab lever to disengage the AWD system. As in early 4WD systems, the transfer case lever is selectable to either RWD, 4WD high range, 4WD low range, and neutral. As there is no transfer case lever present to disengage AWD, it is referred to as constant even though the rear wheels do 90% of the driving, thus the term constant was born. I myself find it a bit hard to accept the term "constant" as I define the term as all 4 wheels driving full time. But as the manufacturers have adopted the term due to the above reasons, I have to go with the flow and accept their reasoning. As banal as I may think it.

Two things to look for. 1: The fuel lines are 100% nipped up at the tank entry. 2: The tank/cradle gasket hasn't pinched, folded, or warped.

Definately a verrrryyyy tasty treat this one man.

All-wheel drive (AWD) is often used to describe a "full time" 4WD that may be used on dry pavement without destroying the drivetrain, although the term may be abused when marketing a vehicle. AWD can be used on dry pavement because it employs a center differential, which allows each tire to rotate at a different speed. ("Full-Time" 4WD can be disengaged and the center differential can be locked, essentially turning it into regular selectable 4WD). On the other hand, AWD cannot be disengaged and the center differential cannot be locked. This eliminates driveline binding, wheel hop, and other driveline issues associated with the use of 4WD on dry pavement. With vehicles with more than four wheels, constant AWD means all wheels drive the vehicle, to varying degrees of engagement, while 4WD means only four of the wheels drive the vehicle continuously. Constant is non-selectable but provides traction to varying degrees whereas selectable can be applied manually from AWD to 2WD. Semantics.......

For your info, some R34 GT-R model facts: The R34 GT-R reappeared in 1999, with a revised chassis and other updates. The R34 turbos received a ball bearing core. The R34 N1 turbos had a metal exhaust wheel, and ball bearing center section. A 6-speed Getrag gearbox was used. The turbo outlet pipes were changed from cast to formed metal outlets. The intercooler had a temperature probe in the V-spec models. Models: GT-R - 2.6 L RB26DETT twin-turbo I6, 332 PS (244 kW, 392 Nm) (advertised as 280) GT-R V-Spec - Additional aero parts, brake ventilation ducts, diffuser. GT-R V-Spec II - As above + carbon fibre bonnet with NACA duct. GT-R N1 - Blueprinted N1 motor, no A/C, no stereo, no rear wiper, basic interior trim. (only 45 made) GT-R M-Spec - Leather interior, softer suspension with "Ripple Control" dampers, heated seats. GT-R V-Spec II Nür - As above V-Spec II + N1 motor, 300 km/h speedo. (only 750 made) GT-R M-Spec Nür - As above M-Spec + N1 motor, 300 km/h speedo. (only 250 made) GT-R NISMO R-tune GT-R NISMO Z-tune - 2.8 L (bored and stroked) RB26DETT Z2 twin-turbo I6, 500 PS (368 kW, 540 Nm) Z1 and Z2 (Only 19 made)

Constant. They can however be altered using an aftermarket torque split controller. Gts-t's are HCR, Gts-4's are HNR, GT-R are BNR Belt, 100,000 km's

Seeing as you're located here in Perth, Danny Vahoumis has one for sale and it's a V-Spec. Here's the link: http://japperformancecentre.com/home/index...s&Itemid=57

It may be an ST Wangan modified ECU. They are based in Malaysia and are tuned by Jun Furukawa. The logo is different so I'm probably wrong here, but it's a very mild possibility. At the very least it's a modified ECU that's been calibrated to your car, so don't panic.

Probably some bogan dickhead in a falcoon or commonwhore having something against rice.

The factors are: Stuffed shocks. Wheels out of balance. Worn bushes. Low tyre pressure.

The permit is a MR43 DOT document with the title "Motor Vehicle Modification Approval" and have a number on the top right hand side. It will list all the mods, have a section for special notes and have the inspector's details at the bottom.

Your clutch is now gripping where before it was slipping. The old clutch was not spinning the wheels as much as with the new clutch since you've had it installed. The issue is not with your clutch, but more with your suspension and/or tyre setup.

A workshop or garage should do it for you for nothing. It takes all of 30 seconds. If they want to charge you, then you have every right to tell them something choice about their mother.

Make sure the pistons are facing down and give the inlet hole a blast of compressed air.

Free!! These are a piece of cake to install man. Literally 3 nuts for each one. Kids stuff really. Give it a go and you'll save yourself $500 which you can spend on something else.

Usually when the little hole in the water pump shaft starts to leak, it's time for a new water pump. The seal is stuffed and as a result the bearing is shot and that will be where the squeak is coming from.

I ran a Jap tuned Mines ECU on mine for a while at I had no detonation problems. Even if there was a slight detonation, octane boost would sort that out in a jiffy. A Top Secret ECU is worth getting, they are after all one of the best in the business. Even if you get scared and don't want it Benzino33, point me in the right direction. I would snap it up without hesitation.

Bummer to hear this man. It does help if you put your location in your profile so when you ask a question about where to get something from, you won't get replies from the wrong state. I could point you in the right direction in WA, but where are you from???????

Go through these steps and see how you go. Step 1 - Checking Battery To check a battery surface voltage, remove the positive terminal protective cover. Connect the +positive side meter lead (red) to the positive side battery terminal. Connect the - negative (black) side meter lead to the negative battery terminal. With the vehicle not running and the car sitting over night the battery voltage should be between 12.5 and 12.8 volts. Step 2 - Checking Alternator Output Connect the voltage meter lead the same way you would in a battery static voltage check, Start engine (do not drive) at engine idle the voltage should be between 13.6 to 14.3 volts. If not the alternator may need replacing. Step 3 - Checking Alternator Amperage Output Testing the amperage output of the alternator is good for measuring the amount (not the level) of voltage the alternator can produce. This test can be tricky because if the alternator is weak it can still show it as producing amperage. Which is good, but if the voltage is low, it will still allow the battery to go dead. To check the amperage output of a alternator an amp meter is needed. Once the meter is connected start the engine. Next turn on all electrical accessories and raise the engine idle to about 1200 RPM. The alternator should output the max amperage it was designed to produce. Example: a 90 amp alternator should output about 88 amps. Note: An alternator can not sustain maximum output for long periods of time. If the alternator is forced to operate at maximum output it will overheat and fail. An alternator is designed to operate at max amperage output only for a reasonable amount of time. Common Problems: 1. Alternator stops producing electrical power and the car stops because the battery dies. 2. Battery fails do to age or defect. 3. Battery cables become loose causing the electrical system to fail.

It'll be fine without the FMIC. All the IC does is cool the inlet charge and as long as you're not pushing big numbers all will be well. Relax and buy the ECU if it's a good price. I would. Don't run the stock turbo above 14psi though, 12psi will be safe. I have a mate who's been pushing his to 16psi and she's still singing......