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No. The ATTESSA-ETS control unit is located in the boot and the G-sensor is under the center console, and are stand alone devices. The ECU controls the engine only. You would have issues if you tried to use RB25DET or RB26DETT ECUs.

A 20/30???? Depending on how many ponies your pushing out will determine which box to use. An RB20DET box is okay, but if you put too much stress on her, she'll shit her pants. An RB25DET box will take a lot more power and is a better option, but you will need to convert the speedometer drive to a cable type as the R33 uses an electronic pulse sensor. As for installation, do it yourself.

It's not 100% necessary dude. I don't have one and I'm pushing 26psi through mine. A turbo timer is a good thing if you thrash your car. The timer is used to circulate water through the turbo to cool it down for a couple of minutes if you've been giving it some and the turbo is very hot. If you turn the car off and the turbo is very hot, you run the risk of killing it. If you don't want to use it, just drive easy before you park and then idle the car for a minute or so after a spirited run to let the turbo cool. The other thing is that they are illegal in some states, and if you don't want to give Mr. Plod and excuse to give you a canary, just idle down, it's not that long man.

Does sound like the input shaft seal. Have you checked to see whether the breather has disconnected or cracked where it joins to the gearbox? (not up on top of the bell housing) These boxes aren't hard to drop man. With a mate and the right tools it should be in and out in 2-3 hours. There is only one bitch of a bolt to get to and that's on top of the bell housing. If you disconnect the tailshaft and jack up the front of the engine, you can use a socket and 4 extensions to get to it without any issues.

I scored mine from Nissan in Cannington. Had to wait for it to come from the East, which took a week, and it cost me $110.

This butthole obviously got knocked back by his hand trying to toss off in the morning he pulled you over and is taking it out on everyone he pulls over. Every now and then you'll get one of these. The dude at the pits will help you out as they really know their ADR's. The cops just make up what they want and you have to bend over and take it. There should be a by-law that allows you to recover funds from an unfair decision made against you by these dickheads that know SFA.

Just drop a 470 or 560 ohm resistor on the anode, either will work for the common LED requiring 2 volts. You will need to acquire one resistor per LED. Resistors can usually be purchased in the same electronics stores as the LEDs themselves. If you really want to use an incandescent globe, then go for it, but LED's will last on average 100,000 hours so you won't need to replace it again.

Nissan will carry the rebuild kits, just call and ask. As far as tools, nothing special is required, just the standard. You'll need to drop the brakes, rip them apart, clean them, put the new seals in, put them back together, bleed them, then drive away. Too easy.

This should help man. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4458006

I had this issue, and for me it was the vacuum line to the fuel regulator had come off.

A pic would help here man. If you could upload one it would help.

I'm assuming that your current car is an auto? If this is the case, you'll need to purchase an auto radiator or hook in an external transmission cooler. It would be cheaper and easier to get the right radiator.

Replace them with an LED from Dick Smith's, Tandys, Jaycar, etc.... Just cut the old one off and solder in the LED. Just remember that LED's have an anode and a cathode, check the polarity before putting everything back together.

The one in Byford is on Hopkinson rd, near Gloaming way. This is where I go to tip. There is also one in Canning Vale, off Ranford Rd, near the train line overpass.

Dude, learn to use the search function. This topic has been covered many times. The DIY - CLICK ME R34 conversion search results - CLICK ME As easy as that.

Have a look here - Click me Have a read of post 5. Head bolts can be reused again but they have been stretched and lose some of their "elasticity". For the minor expense of replacing them, why take the risk?????

Greets man. I don't want to sound like an ass here, but are you following any type of guidelines for this job? You're asking questions that are causing the hairs on the back of my neck to stand up. Use no threadlock. Head bolts are TTY single use items that require a 5 step process to yield. Using theadlock may provide a false torque reading and may also cause the bolts to eventually seize. If done correctly, they will not back out. I hope you're not re-using the old ones! As long as all abrasive material is removed from the bores, you'll be okay, but hoping to rid of all of it with a vacuum cleaner is a bit optimistic. Don't use sealer on the head gasket!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have a set of HKS Hipermax-D's in mine. PaYbAcK21 uses a set of Ohlin/Cusco's. Trinny uses a set of Teins. None of us can whinge about the performance. Exceptional and easily adjustable.

If it was me, I would rebuild both sides. It's cheap and easy. Why wait for the other one to go, or mismatch the performance??????

If you disconnect the HICAS unit, you will lose the speed sensitive steering. I would be more inclined to think that there is something wrong with the power steering pump. If not this, then the HICAS unit. Do you have a mate with a 33 that you could swap units with and take her for a test drive??? All I can think of bro...

Try checking the fuse first, then try changing the relay in the engine bay relay box man.

If your stock fuel reg has passed away, this may cause the problem if it's starving for fuel. I would guess that the car's fine until you start to put the foot down which is where she starts to fart, yes? It make sense to me as the reg is not holding back the fuel to pressurise the rail. Other things I'd be inclined to check is for a dirty fuel filter and/or fuel tank, and whether the pump is seated correctly (not accusing anything here).

I'm very surprised that you have no oil in the IC/intake system. The PCV vents into the intake and the front of the turbo. You WILL get oil vapour running though these two places. The turbo sucks it up and passes it through the IC and the rest of the system into the inlet manifold, where it is re-burned as part of the emissions process. The only way that this doesn't happen is if you vent the PCV to the atmosphere or if you're using a very good oil/air separator. If your valve stems were leaking oil, it would be impossible to smear the intake manifold. The oil would drip into the cylinder bores, not defy gravity and make it's way up. Air is also moving into the bores via the manifold which would also rule out the flow of oil against the force of air under running conditions. I dunno man, this is a weird one if you've positively ruled out PCV gases. Keep us posted.

+1

Again a good effort Andrew. Many thanks. Will be on the next one again for sure.