2LV8ETR

No. Just pull the HICAS globe in the facia or else it will annoy the crap out of you.

Yes it will - But I remember reading somewhere..... That the ECU looks for a change in the auto box and increases the AF ratio because it thinks that the box is still sitting in first, thus making the car use a lot of fuel. I may be wrong about the above statement, but I have used an auto ECU before in an emergency with no ill effects on a 32.

The reason for this is that the Gts-4 uses the GT-R suspension. The flywheels for 32's and 33's and 34's are the same, except for the 34 GT-R

You can get concentric bushes that will solve a small amount of the issue, but for major adjustability you can't go past aftermarket rods.

It still goes broooooooooooooooooom, psshhhht, broooooom, pssshhht, screeeeeeeeeech! Sounds like it's fine man. Chill out and enjoy your ride and be thankful that you found the problem in time.

Dunno about the 33-4's, but the 32-4's use the same setup as the GT-R. Just Jap will know, they're selling G4 coilovers for the 33-4. Maybe look into this if you don't get an affirmative reply from another member??

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Spend the money elsewhere.

Spray a light film of oil into the cylinders. Grab 6 flannel sized chunks of clean rag and stuff them into the bores. Grab a tea-towel size of rag and soak it in a container of oil. Squeeze all of the excess oil out and lay it over the block. Worked for me. Any other suggestions?????????

Minus the holes of course...........

Mine did this too. My problem was the result of the HICAS ring location in the boss kit being out of alignment due to the adhesive coming unstuck. The HICAS thought that the steering wheel was in a turned position and shot the rear wheels out. Twas funny crabwalking down the road at speed............. Throw out the HICAS. Best move you could make.

Drivers side if you have a stock/vented front bar. You wont need longer lines to relocate it then.

Mister Hankey!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Could also be the switch at under the lever. They are a real cheap shitty item and mine used to stick until I sorted it out.

Yes I recommend them for the price, but like I said - Don't try to milk too much out of them. As far as soldering, expect to pay around $100. You may need to take it to a specialty electronics shop as most TV repair mobs will not cover the ECU if they fry it.

There's nothing wrong with a good quality panel filter. But I love the sound of my turbo spooling up at 24psi, and the air box takes a lot of that noise away!!!! Different strokes for different blokes.

Yup. I've put a couple of these in R32's. Haven't had any issues to date and the drivers are very happy with the results. I did the work myself as I've had electronics experience, but I would be surprised if you got it done for the $40 that the advertiser is claiming. I solder cradles into the PC boards so the chips can be easily removed for future EPROM programming when sent away for reprogramming. Just don't expect 1000hp results or try to push too much power through them. There are limits to what you can program into the IC, but they are a very cheap bang for buck item.

Power FC over e-Manage any day.

Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhh! I wanted to go!!!!

I used spacers and a lower profile tyre. Fixed....

Thanx man. Will send this to PaYbAcK as well, I'm sure he'd appreciate it too.

Me and PaYbACk have the same problem. He's running 265's and I've got 245's on a wide rim and the left side sticks out about 5mm than the right. We haven't had the time yet to sus out why and we've only had them on for a short while, but if you come up with an answer other than different offsets/rim width, let me know.

You can do it for 3 grand, but you're going to end up with cheap Chinese knock off crap that I wouldn't even put on a lawnmower. Save your bucks for a while man and get the good stuff. You get what you pay for and the last thing you want to do is trash your engine and end up spending twice the amount that you skimped for repairs.

Yup, sounds like a loose electrical wire or connection.

If you put your foot into the clutch and end up with a whirring noise, it'll more than likely be the throwout bearing. But this doesn't explain the second gear anomaly. I hope it all turns out well for you, but keep us posted of the prognosis.