2LV8ETR

First I've heard. I've had mine for 2 years with no ill effects so far.

Got one of these in mine. I top out at 250.

Got the same casting marks on mine. No probs here!

Best thing I can suggest man is to work out what you want from the car, drag, circuit or drift. Then do a search for RB20 mods and have a look and see what everyone's doing. Like I said, what do you want from your car?

Be careful!!! Don't strip or twist the bastard!

Then go for it man. Just be careful to use the correct sealant on the sandwich plate. DO NOT make a gasket!

HKS make a torque split controller. I've also seen some cheapies on eBay which my brother in law purchased and installed in his Gts-4. This one had a dial to transfer torque and a switch to force RWD.

Dude! What were you thinking??? Unless you know what you're doing (Somehow I don't think so), you'll need to split the box to sort it out.

Search is your friend........... Click me please!

Just to name a few: HKS EVC Greddy/Trust Profec B Insight BCU Version 2.0 HDI-SBC-D-Evolution

Aftermarket ECU

I may be wrong, but don't they use a nylon wheel?

Now you've done it..... Here comes all of the opinions! This may confuse you more than help you My choice was a 9 puck ceramic copper clutch plate with a 1200kg clamp force pressure plate. I'm also using a lightened CM flywheel. I didn't like the organic clutch as it wore too quick for my style of driving. It's excellent for road and competition applications. After showing two other people my setup, they then purchased the same clutch/pressure plate combination. One was using a stock clutch, the other an Exedy organic.

If you're going to be running on your current configuration then the stockie is fine. If you go above this, the you'll need an aftermarket pump. You'll get a mixed reaction as to what sort of pump is best. Some favour Warlbro, others Bosch etc. But at the end of the day as long as it flows the required amount of fuel needed for your application, then it's doing its job. Spend your money elsewhere at the moment.

Another thing you may want to check is whether the turbine is parked inside the cat, that's if it's not an IC hose.

Fully sik!!! That's a cheap GT-R!!!

I believe the RB20 uses a 12ohm injector. Check the resistance of the Sard unit and see if there is any difference. Also, I'm sure if you do a search on this, you'll be surprised as to how many pages of info you'll find.

First thing you should try is to drain the clutch fluid, check your master and slave cylinders for wear, then bleed the clutch. Second is to adjust the clutch pedal travel if the first step doesn't work. Thirdly drop the box and check your synchos.

Hahaha.... I call her Chikkie babe and the bokker is in reference to the noise a chicken makes, you know.... Bock bock. And butt is her arse..................

I bet you've got a small toilet paper bill!

You betchya butt bokker!!!

Have a look here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sa...ying-t7210.html

See if this helps.. Enter the auto transmission diagnostics mode: Have the car at normal temperature in Park with the overdrive on Start the engine the power light will go out after 2 seconds Turn the ignition off Move the selector to Drive (you may have to use the push button release) Overdrive off Wait 2 seconds, and turn the ignition on Wait 2 seconds and move the selector to 2 Overdrive on Move the selector to 1 Overdrive Off Press the accelerator fully and release Auto transmission diagnostics codes: The error codes are flashed out using the Power light on the dashboard (R32) or the Power / Snow button (R33). The sequence starts with one long flash. If everything is OK, this will be followed by ten short flashes. Errors are indicated by a long flash in the sequence of short flashes. 1st flash longer Revolution sensor shorted or disconnected 2nd flash longer Speed sensor shorted or disconnected 3rd flash longer Throttle sensor shorted or disconnected 4th flash longer Shift solenoid A shorted or disconnected 5th flash longer Shift solenoid B shorted or disconnected 6th flash longer Overrun clutch solenoid shorted or disconnected 7th flash longer Lockup solenoid shorted or disconnected 8th flash longer Fluid temperature sensor is disconnected or the control unit power source is damaged 9th flash longer Engine revolution sensor shorted or disconnected 10th flash longer Line pressure solenoid shorted or disconnected All flashes the same with no long start flash - Battery voltage low, has been recently disconnected or control unit has just been reconnected

Been waiting for the word. Definately in Andrew!!!! Yahooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!

Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahah ahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahah ahahahahahahaha