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Have a look at the piccies in the first set before the dude swaps to the short shifter. See if yours looks like this. Shifter Pics

Yup, he's on the money here. Definately makes a difference man. Do it.

The bigger and better HKS FMIC will allow you to run a higher boost than a stock IC. The more boost, the more heat. The bigger the IC, the better the cooling.

You can buy cannons with removable silencers. Good for when you cop a canary..........

The stock RB26 camshaft has a 240/236mm duration with 8.58mm lift (intake) and 8.28mm exhaust

WD40 is pretty much a combination of mineral turpentine and oil. You can make it at home and put it in a spray bottle which is what I do. I think if you get the excess off quick enough with soapy water you should be cool. If I am wrong here, please guys, speak up.

Yo bro, that's what I said in the first sentence which refers to the use of an auto body. "When you drop an RB20 manual box into an auto body, the crossmember holes are too far forward to use the rb25 manual crossmember." The second sentence, still with the auto body in mind - "The rb25 manual box will line up with the crossmember holes because the manual box is longer than the RB20 box and the same length as the RB20 auto box. Just some wires crossed in communication.

When you drop an RB20 manual box into an auto body, the crossmember holes are too far forward to use the rb25 manual crossmember. The rb25 manual box will line up with the crossmember holes because the manual box is longer than the RB20 box and the same length as the RB20 auto box. When fitting an RB20 manual box you need to use an S13 AUTO crossmember because they are a mirror image of the manual crossmember and will allow the holes to line up. So in your case with the Ceffie, I cannot be sure as to which one you'll need. But if you run into the problem with one not lining up, the other should work. Sorry man, I can't give you a definate answer, just another option in case you get stuck.

I know that the OEM pump flows 260lph at 45psi so they are comparable to a Walbro. Because of the design of the pump, it would be a tricky install as the R33 gtst is slightly different. They look more like the pump used in an R33 GTR. Not completely impossible for a competent person. My best advice is to pull the pump from your 33, and look at the two side by side and make your own determination. To pull the pump should only take about 30-45 minutes. Good luck man and keep us posted.

You get what you pay for.............

A bypass valve is a vacuum-actuated valve designed to release pressure in the intake system when the throttle is lifted or closed. This air pressure is recirculated back into the non pressurized end of the intake (before the turbo) but after the mass airflow sensor. A blowoff valve does basically the same thing, but releases the air to the atmosphere. This creates a very distinctive sound. For some owners this is the only reason to get a blowoff valve. The unique sound caused by a blowoff valve sometimes comes at a price. On a car the blowoff valve is mounted after the mass airflow sensor, so venting to atmosphere confuses the ECU. The ECU is told it has a specific amount of air in the intake system, and injects fuel accordingly. The amount of air released by the blowoff valve is not taken into consideration and the engine runs rich for a period of time. Engines with a manifold absolute pressure regulated ECU are not typically affected. Typically this isn't a major issue, but sometimes it can lead to hesitation or stalling of the engine when the throttle is closed. This situation worsens with higher boost pressures. Eventually this can foul spark plugs and destroy the catalytic converter. When running rich, not all the fuel is properly burned in the cylinder which can allow unburned fuel to combust upon contact with and melt the converter or to cause incompletely combusted fuel to leave heavy carbon deposits. Blowoff valves are used to prevent compressor surge. Compressor surge is a phenomenon that occurs when lifting off the throttle of a turbocharged car. When the throttle plate on a turbocharged engine running boost closes, high pressure in the intake system has nowhere to go. It is forced to travel back to the turbocharger in the form of a pressure wave. This results in the wheel rapidly decreasing speed and stalling. The driver will notice a fluttering air sound. A blow-off-valve is connected by a vacuum hose to the intake manifold after the throttle plate. When the throttle is closed, manifold vacuum without pressure develops in the intake manifold after the throttle plate and sucks the blow off valve open. The excess pressure from the turbocharger is vented into the atmosphere or recirculated into the intake upstream of the compressor inlet. I hope this clarifies any doubt you have as to it's purpose. Later man!

Dunno about the Ceffie man, but it's what I did for the R32.

It's not going to rust it out if that's what you think. When driving in the rain, do you think that no water whatsoever enters the bell housing? If you think I'm pulling my dick, go ahead and use compressed air..................

The clamps and silicone/rubber hoses connecting the intercooler system

To me it looks as though the dust boots are shot, the threads look blocked up, and the bushes are toast. Hard to tell from the pics.........

I think he's more concerned with you flushing your cash down the shitter if you botch the job. As long as you have a good reference, have a friend help who has some idea at least, take your time, and triple check everything you do, you should be okay. We all have to start somewhere, but be prepared for the worst if it should go pear shaped.

Yup........ Serious blow-by. Do a compression test and this will confirm it.

Soapy water man. Use NO OIL based products.

That's probably another of their little tests. When I went over, there was a 100mm bump and the inspector said that if I scraped, I was too low. He didn't measure to the headlights, he measured the eyebrow level and told me I had to put a 10mm block under the rear spring?!?!?!?!?! What they'll pass you for depends on whether they got a root the night before.........

I was told but I didn't confirm it, that it's for a clutch in start up setup.

100mm in WA. And it's only for solid items like the exhaust. Flexible items like mudflaps etc. are ok. This pissed me off when I got done becuase the inspector told me of a recent Merc that was brought out from the factory and passed that had an 85mm clearance. Typical..........

I don't want to sound like a dick man, but have you had a look on the silvia sites? They would have more relevant info when it comes to the application on an SR20. You'd get some info here when applying to RB's, but an SR is a slightly different animal. SilviaWA Nissan Silvia

Nope, pretend it doesn't exist. Done two so far and had no issues with it.

Nope. Got an R33 nismo lightened flywheel on my RB20. They are the same. Same deal with the clutch. Later man!

One factor that makes many engines hard to seal today is the use of aluminum cylinder heads on cast iron blocks. Aluminum heads save weight but expand 1.7 times faster than cast iron when they get hot. The difference in expansion rates creates a lot of motion and scrubbing between the head and block. You may be able to reuse them with no adverse effects if you make sure the threads are clean and not deformed. However many engines like RB's use "torque-to-yield" (TTY) head bolts that stretch slightly when installed. This provides more even head loading and allows the bolts to hold torque better for improved head gasket sealing. When the bolts are installed, they're first tightened to a specific torque - then tightened an additional amount that's measured in degrees of rotation. This final twist stretches the bolts to their yield point and creates the elastic clamping force that provides more even loading across the head and gasket. Because TTY head bolts stretch slightly, some auto makers say they should not be reused when the cylinder head is removed. Reusing TTY bolts will cause them to stretch further, which increases the risk of breakage. A stretched bolt also will not hold the same torque load as before, which may cause a loss of clamping force resulting in head gasket leakage. The best insurance is to replace all TTY bolts when rebuilding and reinstalling a cylinder head with new head bolts. So if your engine uses TTY bolts, replace them. Be sure and torque to the correct setting and in the proper sequence.