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Two reasons for lag that I can think of: 1: There is a leak in the piping or connections. 2: When you add a larger IC you increase the amount of air through the system due to the larger capacity of the IC and extra piping. This shouldn't make a huge difference though If the pipes are getting hotter than the last/stock IC then you have either a shithouse or blocked IC. Did you clear all the packaging out of the IC. Seems weird to me man??

Ditto!

You'll be able to roll the rear guards, but not flare them using the guard roller bro because of the door. It's too close to the gap and any flaring will close the gap. Wanted it done to mine but couldn't for this reason. If you want it done you'll need to use a fibreglass one and adapt it to suit the door gap but it still won't allow for larger wheels because the original guard will remain. As the others said - No. The original guard remains. You can do the front if you use either a GTR guard or a fibreglass widebody guard. The problem with sedans is the rear guards. I'm in the same boat as I've been wanting the Bee-R324 kit so I am on the lookout for a coupe shell so I can do the swap. Later man!

Contact these guys - Hirata Robotics

Yup. It's good to make all that power and speed, but you'll need to stop her when the road runs out.

Clutch alignment tool or a dummy spigot. Sample tool - https://www.bolt.com.au/product_info.php?ma...roducts_id=2029 You can get these at Super Cheap for about $20-30.

The last one was sweet! I'll be in!

Should do. It's only fading because the car is in direct sunlight all of the time.

Yup, a good bloke......... He may have been through some shit man, but it doesn't excuse talking to people like shit trying to help him. He's getting advice, he should be thankful and not take what he's being given for granted, even if his mates in the US know everything.

Greets man. My opinion only: Buy one yourself and install it yourself - it's just a few bolts and some lining up to do. As far as getting them, try doing an online search and you'll find many places that have them. If you don't have a retailer close, just get them to ship it to your doorstep. The other thing is they do look good. But unless you garage your car when not in use, they fade. I've got one on my race car and after 2 years it's fading. Hope this helps. Later!

Half a day with a mate and some good tools. Save a shitload in labour.

Have you got a piccie dude? I'll compare it to the 25T box i have here. May not be 100% but it's a chance.

Nah mate. Me and PaYbAcK dropped a 32Gts-t and a 32Gts-4 (slightly harder - AWD) box and changed the clutches in 4 hours. Disconnect the shifter, drop the tailshaft, drop the slave, undo the bell housing bolts, undo crossmember bolts, and hey presto - a gearbox. Recommend a mate, 4 axle stands, and a decent trolley jack.

Hey bro.................................................... Never go to Peru.....

I use a solar panel on the rear parcel shelf to charge the battery during the day while car's not in use. It's only a 1.5W but it does the job well enough so I can get in and turn the key without any issues. It was also only $40.00.

That's weird man. You can buy the caps from a Nissan dealership. The shifters work on RB20 boxes as well as RB25's. The only difference between the two is the cap size is bigger on RB25 and GTR boxes, and the retaining bolts are longer on RB25/GTR. The caps are only a few bucks so it's worth trying. You will need to give it a bit of pressure to fit them on as well. I placed the cap on the ground and pushed the shifter into the cap using a small amount of body weight. I had to swap mine from the RB20 box to the RB25 when I made the change, and the ball was the same size between the two. Only the cap size differed.

I had the same problem. I made a new pushrod with 10mm extra length and it fixed the problem. I used a tent peg, cut it to size and shaped it with my bench grinder. Kind of cavemanish but it has never failed me. As for it being too long - cut it down.

Nah man, they're nitrogen filled. Take them to a reputable suspension mob.

Why ask if you're going to research and find the answer yourself??? Big mistake.............Good luck! I say we let him work it out himself as he's gotten some excellent advice................

Whoops! 0.7.....

Ok. This is slightly off topic but here goes..... I bought a set of GTR injectors for my RB20 and I was told that they have been modified to RB20 ohm. Is this feasable or has someone just told me a load of bullshit??? If is is possible, how can this be tested? Thanx.

If installed right it helps. As long as you fill the can with stainless steel wool. What this does is scrub the oil vapour from the PCV before returning it to the intake in front of the turbo. If you don't do this, oil will line the intercooler and piping and will reduce its ability to disperse heatsoak. If you take off your crosspipe, you'll see oil in it. This is what the catch can helps to eliminate. It won't make a major difference, but every little bit helps in the end.

Tell your mate to get a hybrid BOV - Vents to atmo as well as plumbs back. This will solve his problem. Happens to most RB20's.

RB2530 hit the nail on the head man. Steer clear. Go conventional.

One thing I had to do when I boosted my RB20 up to 22psi was to shorten the gap on the plugs to .10mm as the spark was scattering. She used to fart and carry on above 16psi until I did the gap and Splitfire coil packs. Keep it in mind......