2LV8ETR

Many thanks, much appreciated! Attracts a lot of attention with the V8 boys. I can never go anywhere without being challenged.

Excellent turnout. The biggest I've been on yet. We had to bail early as both our wives are preggers and the cigarette smoke and exhaust fumes were getting to them. Still well worth turning up to see the support and to donate to the cause. Definately some sexy cars out there

I'll be there.

I should be there. I'll pass this on to PaYbAcK and Trinny and see if they are willing too. I enjoyed the last one so I'm keen!

That's a good question there..... In my opinion you should be able to adapt the R32 sensor with the R33 in an opposite sense of what is happening in this thread. I've tried to go from R33 to R32 three times with no luck, but there are people in this thread that are having success with the conversion. Help us out here people. Has anyone heard of converting R33 to R32???? I've not heard of it but someone may have and could help out. I'm also unsure if the gearbox centres are able to be crossed. I've only played with R32 GTR gear, not R33 so I am unfamiliar with R33 gearbox internals. Hopefully someone else can step in here man as I cannot give you a definate answer. Sorry dude.

Greets man. It's hard to follow what you have written but I think I got the gist of the story. You can run the car without the speedo sensor but there are three main issues that some people prefer to have working. 1: The car uses a HICAS system which controls the steering in the rear of the car. The HICAS senses the speed of the vehicle and issues a varied amount of steering angle dependent on the speed the car is travelling at. Without the speed sensor the HICAS system will shut down in about 5 minutes. Heaps of people don't give a shit about HICAS - me included, and lock the bastard out. You can drift better without it. 2: The power steering is also controlled by how fast you are travelling. You will notice with a working speedo, the steering will get heavier at higher speeds than at lower speed and will require more input at higher speed. Without the sensor, the steering won't perform like this. 3: You won't know exactly how fast you are going! You can get an approximate indication by having a friend travel next to you at certain speeds and taking note of your revs. Inaccurate but it'll get you by. Weigh it up man and draw your own conclusions. Later dude!

Any ideas on the route and time of run??

Yo man, found the idle issue. The vacuum line for the rising rate fuel regulator was blowing in the wind. Pushed her back on and all is sweet. No wonder she was a bit down on power. Should've checked while we were parked up. Later dude!

Thanks again Andrew for a great time. Nothing wrong with the route man, well planned and directed. Can't wait for the next one, I'll be watching. Again, thanks. Allen, Roz & Mitchell

Work finished! Will be there 100%.

May be there. Depends on whether we get the work on the car finished. Do you have an exact time yet or is it still in the wind? Later!

Well try driving it

Alright guys. A recent topic: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tuned-1002hp-R34-T88-t237291.html has got me thinking.... How much power can you milk from an RB engine? I'd like to hear from others who have recent links to workshops or personal projects that state with proof their hp/kw ratings. All RB's are up for discussion. 20's 25's 26's and strokers. I have heard rumous of 1500hp monsters , but I've been unable to verify the fact. It would be interesting to see what the greatest are using.

Experience has taught me the same.

2.5 litres.

Sure is. The FMIC and exhaust won't affect your vehicle without tuning at all.

Yeah man it is a cooler. The workshop manual even states it. The reason the fluid gets hot is because of compression. If you pump the pedal enough it will heat the line. They're not use on brake lines because they run the length of the vehicle and the underbody draught cools the lines. Anything under compression develops heat - A case in point: Turbos.

0.7 bar is enough to lunch the clutch bro, depending on your driving style. Really man, it's a good investment, the previous two posts support the act. As far as the dump, mine is the dump/down with divorced wastegate. As stated it produces less cavitation and interferes less with the vortex down the system. They cost a little more but I won't turn back ever, and I've recommended them to my club with the same positive results. Ultimately the choice is yours my man, just take everything into account before making YOUR descision.

I may be the odd man out here, but mine actually killed the AFM. I was not able to raise it from the dead with contact cleaner or PC spray. Nothing helped. I Had to replace it. It gave me an excuse to replace it with a Z32 though! Now I use an HKS pod and wash the filter in with my clothes. I replace it every 3 washes though. Works for me.

Definately go the clutch man. As soon as you put some real boost into your baby you'll fry it within a month. Go the ceramic/copper as the organic will wear quicker, and the ceramic/copper has more bite. 9 puck if you can. As for exhaust, go the 3 inch all the way through. Whether you use a split dump and downpipe or dump/downpipie with divorced wastegate is up to you, but it's a must. Personally the divorced downpipe is better as it introduces the gases further down the system and produces less cavitation. Also a hi-flow cat is a must as the stockie is a restrictor. I'm using a Walbro which is good for 450hp. Nothing wrong with that! Make sure it's genuine and not a cheap-ass asian knockoff and you'll be fine. Bosch's are the sweetest but for the power you'll be chasing the Walbro will do the trick.

I got an X-Force and I've had no issues with it at all. Works well!

Don't forget to bleed the master first, then the slave. Otherwise you'll be bashing your teddy man. I learned the hard way......

Why stay Auto?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!

Greets. The 20 box is good for about 350hp. It also depends on how you drive it. Sidestepping at 8 grand won't be doing it any favours........ Later!

Greets man. Yup, do what I did....... Gave up. I've tried 3 different senders. The first I had made up by a "pro" over east. It lasted 3 months before the nylon gear was stripped bare. The second I had made up by a mechanic over here. It lasted 2 weeks before the nylon gear sheared off and ended up in the tranny. The third I had brought in from Japan. It lasted 6 weeks before the shaft sheared in half and crunched up in the gearset. I'm currently midway putting an R32 RB20DET box in because I'm sick of the crap and the expense. I just need an S13 auto crossmember to fit the box as mine was an auto. Good luck man.