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Greets man. Another trick I did with mine is fabricate a longer slave cylinder pushrod. I made a new one with an extra 5mm of length and it made a big difference. Later!

Yup, it's the cooler. Bypassed mine, and two other Skylines with no adverse affect. Bin it bro!

Greets guys. This is what I'm chasing: Console surround Manual gearbox insulator (The rubber boot that hugs the shifter and bolts to the trans tunnel) Sedan driver's side window switch panel Sedan door trims Front seats Rear seats Lemme know if you can help. Later!

Greets guys. A little while ago I put an R33 manual box into my auto R32. Since the conversion I have problems changing up through the gears where each selection crunches when changing at >3000 rpm. The clutch used is a 9 puck ceramic item with a custom 2.5 ton pressure plate. I believe I have found the problem to be my master cylinder. Last week I lost most of my clutch and when I tried to bleed the line, I found the fluid to be black in colour. I have put this down to wear of the seals in the master cylinder. The kicker is that I bought the master cylinder new from Coventry's and that was only 2 months ago. At the same time I bought this, I had the seals in the slave replaced at the same time. I think I need a master cylinder with a bigger bore to give me more throw with the clutch to stop the grinding through the gears, and this should hopefully be strong enough to cope with the increased seal pressure that the pressure plate is asking for. Does anyone know what is out there available or does someone know something that I don't that could be another issue? Would an R33 master cylinder do the trick? The brake/clutch specialists I have spoken to over here in WA don't know the answer. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Lemme know how long it takes you to do the job when you get around to it. It'll give me an indication of how long to expect to be off the road for. Good luck!

Dude, I've got a set of GTR 444cc injectors for mine, though they have been converted to RB20 ohm. I have been told that you would have to have a fair whack of hp for these to max out on an RB20.

A miracle happened - Call the Vatican! The turbo is a T03/04 Ball bearing that came off my nephew's R33. We fitted it in 4 hours and used the same gaskets off his 33. We didn't break or strip anything doing it and it was my first time, though his third (most of the time all I did was watch). The gaskets have held up fine because they were only 6 months old. My nephew is putting a VK45 in his 33 so he didn't need the snail anymore and he'd only had the puppy for 6 months before it was put in mine. When we finished the job she fired up with no leaks anywhere. I've just confirmed with my nephew that when he fitted the turbo on his 33 from new she went on with no hassles and in the same time frame. A mystery to all....

Yeah man, it happened to me. I reckon my problem is the heater core as coolant was leaking into the passenger footwell. There looks to be a lot of work trying to get to the heater core and I use my car as a daily driver. So all I have done for now is bypassed the heater by connecting the inlet/outlet hoses in the engine bay. You get no heat, but it's getting me by until I can find enough time to pull the dash to pieces, get to the core and send it off to a radiator repair shop.

WTF?!?! HBF quoted me $1470 per year for a heavily modified R32 for $18k. I had to fax them an evaluation of the car listing all mods, and the evaluation was to be done by a licensed car dealer. Why the hell was my quote so high? I have a good driving record, I was 38 at the time, though I had no NCB as this was my first attempt a MV insurance. By the looks of it they don't know what they're doing.

I did the same turbo model conversion on my RB20DET. Popped straight in, no fuss, no worries, no hassles. Everything lined up. Maybe I got lucky???

I have been told the 300ZX box is exactly the same as the HCR32, except you'll need to change the bell housing. I was told this when doing my conversion but I would want to be sure before purchasing if I was you. I went with the R33 box.

Okey dokey, does anyone know what to do with the speedo drive? I've done the conversion but the only thing that has me stumped is this last trick. The R33 uses a pulse sensor and the R32 uses a cable. The BIG question is, is there a cable sensor that fits the R33 gearbox that can be used in the R32?? Any help would be appreciated

Greetz guys, I have a couple of issues with a manual conversion I just performed. The vehicle is an R32 GTS-t. I replaced the auto box with an R33 Nismo 5-speed close ratio box with a 2-ton clutch and ceramic 9 puck plate. The three main problems are as follows: 1: Whenever I change into any gear above 2500-3000 rpm it crunches into gear, below these revs and she swaps smoothly. 2: If I'm stationary or moving, in or out of gear, and punch the clutch with approx 4000+ rpm, the box starts grinding continuously until I pump the clutch a few times and then it ceases. 3: The speed sensor in the box is an electronic pulse type, the R32 is a cable driven sensor. What are my options available so I can have my speedometer back? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Have you ever seen a doorslammer running the 1/4, throwing a piston, cracking the block, spilling oil onto the hot exhaust (which is glowing white) and causing flames to piss out everywhere? Remember the dude at the Jamboree who blew his clutch on the line? The clutch caused an oil fire that trashed his beast. Last year in the WRC series a car retired due to an oil fire from a seperated turbo oil line spilling onto the exhaust housing. EGT's run about 150°C at idle to 760+°C under an extreme load. Normal running temps will be between 260° to 480°C. The flashpoint of your typical motor oil is 200°C. You can work out the math. The risk of an oil fire in a motor vehicle is low, but you'd have to be rich to want to risk it. As for venting to the atmo - The Colonel said it best: Dont do it the dodgy way, do it properly.

1: Vented catch cans are illegal - over here at least. 2: Vented catch cans vent to the atmosphere thus fouling your engine bay with oil vapour deposits (even with the piddly filter). 3: If there was no valve to stop the pressure returning to the can then your crankcase will ventilate into the bottom of the can. The PCV system works on a one way route and you've just created an interruption.

Yep, there is - you lazy bastard! :headspin: Instead of using the ball valve, use a electric or pneumatic valve. For the electric system, select a valve that closes when a voltage signal is sensed and connect this to the ignition system. When the car starts, the valve is triggered by the voltage from the ignition and closes the drain to the sump. When the engine stops, the valve opens and drains the oil to the sump. For the pneumatic system, select a valve that closes when a positive pressure signal is sensed and connect this to the PCV system. When the car starts, the valve senses the pressure increase in the PCV sytem and closes the drain to the sump. When the engine stops, the valve opens and drains the oil to the sump. The impossible is managed immediately, miracles take a little longer my friend! Give it a go!

I got the idea of Sydneykid if I remember correctly, kudos to him from me too. Leaving the valve open overnight with a hose pulled (quick clamps - no real pressure in the PCV system) lets it drain nicely. But I always leave a post-it note on the facia as it reminds me to close the valve before starting the engine.

This previous response from sydneykid may help: Hi guys, here is one I prepared earlier using an example of 4 intercooler setups and pipework we have actually used; 1. R33 GTST Standard Intercooler and standard R32 GTST pipework 150 rwkw = 27 lbs of air per min @ 13 litres of i/c & pipework 2. Supra Intercooler and matching 63mm pipework 180 rwkw = 30 lbs of air per min @ 15 litres of i/c & pipework 3. Standard GTR GTR and 63/75mm pipework 250 rwkw = 40 lbs of air per min @ 21 litres of i/c & pipework 4. Greddy 600 X 300 X 115 and 80 mm pipework 400 rwkw = 60 lbs of air per min @ 28 litres of i/c & pipework If you look at the numbers you can see that the rate of air flow and the volume of I/C and pipework have a fixed relationship (27 = 13 , 30 = 15 , 40 = 21 , 60 = 28). This is not an accident, I designed it that way. The reason is I wanted to keep the throttle response as close what it was when the car had 150 rwkw, because I though that was very nice response. The theory I followed was, the more power the engine produces the more air it needs. Thus if I keep the increase in the volume of air inside the inlet system in the same proportion as the power increase, then the throttle response should stay the same. This is based on the engine using the air in the same time frame. So when people say they fitted a FMIC and have not noticed any less throttle response, my response would be, that is what I would expect. As long as they went from 150 rwkw to 180 rwkw. On the other hand, if there was no power increase then it would be simply physically impossible for there to be no decrease in throttle response. The problem of poor throttle response arrises when you have a 220 rwkw engine with a 28 litre inlet system. This is something I see way to often. Here's the thread: rb20det and front mounts

I'll second that! Also be prepared to lose a lot of skin on your hands.

Nah dude, go the normal route across the engine in front of the timing cover, then out the driver's side guard. Save the dough for something that will give you bang for your bucks. :kick:

The way I have mine set up is with a mini ball valve hanging off the drain point at the bottom of the catch can. After the ball valve I ran a silicon hose that I tapped into the sump. I welded a plate to the inside of the sump and that's what I tapped into. The only reason I have done this is because the engine was out anyway and I thought, "why not?" Normally when you do an oil change you'd just drain the can by undoing the clamp then pull the bung out of the end of the drain hose, allowing it to collect into a container of course. Now all I do is open the 1/4 turn ball valve and let the oil drain into the sump - Magic!! If you want to give it a go I highly recommend that you don't tap into the sump without reinforcing it first!

Owned a VF1000R once...... Over a period of 3 months I attempted to "break" the record for getting to work, from Maddington to O'Connor. I eventually broke into the 7 minute mark (average 180km/h). After several near-misses, a chase involving about 4 vehicles and an eventual canary on the bike after attempting to drag with an unmarked car, I finally had a change in attitude and purchased a 900cc Daihatsu Charade. I drove the bread box for about 2 years and in that time I learned a lot, I mean - A lot. The car helped me to tone down on the roads, and it was just what the doctor ordered. Since driving the Charade, then purchasing the R32 about 2 years ago (4 years total) I have never been issued with an infringement. I have been pulled over 5 times in the R32 and was canaried once, the other 4 times were for license checks and a warning from the cop that some prick was thieving imports in my area. Like all the others before me who have admitted stupidity, I think that there does come a time when you finally click and realise what you are doing. Some people take a long time such as myself, but others inevitably learn the hard way, when it’s too late. I was stupid, and lucky.

Dealt with Cypher before - not happy at all. A long story but not for this thread. XSpeed is the only other shop I've dealt with, and no complaints there.

My R32 GTS-t - GM grey Bro's R33 GTS25t - Dark grey Nephew's R33 GTS25t M-Spec - Black

Dude, do a search using hicas as the keyword. You'll find a shitload about the topic and you'll save a lot of time by researching what has already been covered. Enjoy!