2LV8ETR

Yep, same here. I've had it for about a year. The solenoid closes down, but not enough to completely lock the door - normal wear and tear I was told. The only solution I've been told is to replace the unit and, you don't have to use the OEM item. As long as the solenoid works on the same electrical configuration she'll be sweet.

I have to go back through my mags and find the article. I only keep HPI, Speed, and AutoSalon - I hope it wasn't in any of the fours mags 'cause I don't keep them.

Wank factor - 10

I was under the impression that the wheel ends up in the exhaust system. I personally can't see how any piece can force it's way back up the exhaust manifold/header, back through a valve opening (perfect nanosecond timing required), then back into the cylinder where it can cause damage - all the time battling pressurised exhaust gasses. (No animosity or hostility intended here guys) If somebody has experienced this first hand can they please exlain what damage was caused to the engine as the curiosity is killing this cat, and I assume GTSpec too.

I remember a topic on this once in a magazine and these were the results from the tests done: BP Ultimate - 98RON Shell Optimax - 98RON Caltex Vortex - 95RON I never knew until I read the article that Vortex advertised 98RON but because of their refinery process or some shit like that, the end result is 95RON. I had a lot of pinging when I used Vortex, and I never use it as a result of this. BP first preference, Shell second. Nothing less for my baby.

Nissan had the 5-speed auto transmission designated RE5R01A, it's sister to the 4-speed, the RE4R01A and was used in both the Skyline series and the 1999 Q45 4.1 V8 Infinity, although there are other vehicles, I can't remember exactly which ones. The manual coversion is going to be a wait and see as the gearbox I have coming is a Nismo close ratio, so the diff ratio may be a bit extreme for the box, should be fun for a while though!

My HCR32 has a 5 speed auto. It has 3 gear selections on the shifter and then 2 other gears on overdrive. The overdrive sucks because when I'm driving Miss Daisy in the back and select OD after 80kmh, both 4th & 5th gear shift within a couple of seconds and the next thing I know I'm doing 80kmh with the engine turning at 1500rpm - needless to say it's pretty bloody gutless down there in that rev range. But when I'm on her she'll swap into 4th at 150kmh and 5th at 190kmh. My only real bugbear is the inability to select 4th and 5th at will, which is why I'm in the middle of procuring everything for my manual conversion, no more auto for me.

I got one for mine and she nipped straight up without a single issue. I'd keep the boost below 10psi until you get your 'cooler, otherwise you'll be generating too much heat for the stockie to disperse. Quality? Hahaha, all I can say is hold on to something solid when you launch! Reliability? I've had mine for 3 months now with no issues at all. It originally came from my nephew who was running it on his R33 on full boost all day, every day for about 6 months. He also took out the Newman drags title in his class using the very same turbo. I'd say that would account for something.

Greetz guyz. I have found a bucket load of oil sprayed everywhere along the pulley system and along the entire undercarriage of my HCR32. It appears to be originating from behind the cam cover. My question is: How easy is it to replace this seal and could it be done by someone with a reasonable level of competance? I was quoted $800.00 (ball park) by Cypher and was told it would be an all day job. This I was also told is about as excessive as a 200kg testicle. Any help would be appreciated.

I've seen photos of an RB26DETT with a supercharger. The supercharger took care of the lag issue (as you know these puppies don't suffer from lag) in the low end of the RPM range, but cut out when boost came on with the turbos. Don't ask me what the power figures were as I never found that info out, but it looks and sounds like a nice concept.

Sorry man, we're losing track of your original thread..... The eye-level brake light I was told is '89 onwards. This was an inspector at the O'Connor pit, nice guy, scared the shit out of me when he took my car for a "test drive". As far as the engine is concerned, I believe as soon as you change the engine type, certification is required. By this I mean if I was going to put a VQ45 into a Holden Commonwhore, I'd need one, but if I was going to put an RB25DET into my R-32 GTS-t I wouldn't need one as the capacity increase is spot on 25% and I'm using the same RB series engine.

Greetz. I just took delivery of an HKS Speed Limit Defencer but it's in Japanese! Is there anyone out there who has the book in English and can tell me where the wires go? I can post a scan of the wiring diagram picture if someone is able to translate it. the particular unit uses the N1 configuration for an HCR32. Any help will be immensely appreciated. Thanx guyz.

Okey dokey. I am converting from an auto to an R33 Nismo 5 speed CR gearbox. All I've been told is to get hold of a pedal box. I'm assuming that it's the whole assembly for the addition of the clutch pedal and the master cylinder on the other side of the firewall. Bart, if you're out there...... I cain't getchya! Yer mobie's off and your employer(?) says your off on hollies. When's the best time to get hold of ya? Thanx guys.

I got canaried for my GT wing a coupla months ago. The dude told me because it had sharp edges it was considered a pedestrian killer. The other thing was the wing stuck out beyond the confines of the main bodywork by 10 cm each side! It was a beauty! When I asked what I had to do to make it conform to the regs I was informed that I had to cut the wing's width down to make it fit inside the pillar/roof structure, and all edges on the wing including the uprights had to be rounded and thick. In other words after finishing the required mods, the wing would look like shit. I went and bought an R32 VS spoiler to replace the GT wing and I was told that it was still too wide (outside by 5cm each side). I went and replaced it with the same spoiler off a DC-5 Integra, and was outside in width by 1cm, but it would be considered passed. Then came the kicker. Vehicles manufactured after 1989 must be fitted with an eye-level brake light. Shit man! Is there any limit to the bullshit? After all of this I was told that if the spoiler met these requirements, a permit was not required. Hope this helps a bit.

How do I get in touch with Bart GB?

Greets! Does anyone have, or does anyone know of anyone who has an HCR32 pedal box for sale? I'd prefer to source one locally for ease of obtainment, rather than attempt to have one shipped, and our wreckers seem to have a shortage! Thanx.

Thanks man, I'll give it a go. Finally a reply to a post, I thought I was invisible!

Greets, I have had a custom boss kit made but a part has popped off its glued mount. This piece is used to move the sensor around as the steering is turned. If you can, could you please provide the position of the sensor finger (the bit that's poking out) in its o'clock position. EG: If you took the wheel off, the finger may be in a 2 o'clock position etc... Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Is there anyone out there who has put an R33 gearbox into an R32? I presently have an HCR32 with an auto (gag!) box and I have located a Nismo 5-speed close-ratio gearbox out of an M-Spec R33, and she's on her way. What am I looking at? What dramas should I foresee or prepare myself for? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

There's another reason... The HICAS positioning sensor behind the steering wheel requires constant input to inform the computer of the steering wheel position. When you turn the steering wheel, the sensor moves with the steering wheel and informs the computer of the front wheel's are turning. The computer then turns the rear wheels according to the angle of the front wheels, and the speed of the vehicle at the time of the turn. The main problem with freeways is that they don't contain sharp turns, but the sensor requires a substantial amount of input and you don't get that amount of turn input on freeways. This means: The computer detects foreward motion (speedo). There is no input due to the small steering movements on freeways. The computer thinks something's amiss and locks out the rear steering only. the lockouts are a pain in the butt, but nothing to really worry about. After all, who out there has also intalled a HICAS lockout kit??

This month's HPI magazine has a genuine N1 R33 feature. There is a fair bit of info on the N1 block, so it would be worth the read to quench the curiosity.

Okay, let's up the ante... Why put one on at all? Reading through the previous threads, the debate is still inconclusive as to whether the stock unit is just as good. It sounds like it is capable up to a point, but where is that point? I have been given a fuel reg (I was told it's a Malpassi but it has no markings) and I really don't want to put it on because of all the problems being experienced by others. The car is my daily driver and reliablity for me is a bigger issue than having a fuel reg that may not be any better than the stock item. Why fix it if it ain't broke? Can we put this one to bed?