2LV8ETR

Yes, but don't expect it to last long. At least put an RB25DET box behind it.

Armadale shopping centre before the upgrade. I returned to my car to see that a woman had parked her trolley against my car to stop it from creeping down the hill that we were parked on as she was starting to offload her food shopping. I got to my car and she stopped what she was doing and looked at me. I grabbed her trolley and pushed it down the hill, with her in hot pursuit. The best part was when it got to the bottom of the hill and hit the kerb as it endo'd and spilled all over the road. I looked at where she had leaned the trolley on the car and saw a minor scratch that wasn't there before. I got in my car and drove off. Fair trade in my opinion.

Greets man, and welcome! The R34 stock SMIC is good for up to 200kw so I wouldn't do anything with it until you hit that mark. Air intake and exhaust should be the first things on your list in my opinion. Good luck with your toy.

This is it in a nutshell. You have to be able to trust the workshop to do the right thing by you, and to deny that the vehicle was taken out is a lie. This constitutes mistrust and the workshop responsible should lose business due to their actions. As stated previously, it may only be 2.6km, but how was it driven in that distance? +1 for the PM man.

We got a couple on our site.

Nothing 4-5 extensions and a wobbly drive won't sort out for the passenger side one. The other key to this is to temporarily drop the gearbox crossmember which tilts the whole lot back to allow enough room to get the socket on. Use a stubby spanner for the drivers side after reconnecting the gearbox crossmember.

Are you sure you should be doing this if you're asking the question? I realise that everyone has to start somewhere and I applaud the effort but I hope you have someone with you to assist and aid you with the job who has a little mechanical knowledge, or at the very least a comprehensive manual to work with. In saying that, if there's no need to service the box, leave it in. Trying to manipulate the engine and box without an adjustable engine leveller/stabiliser would certainly see a few dents accumulate in the engine bay. Good on you for giving it a go, I hope it works out man.

Do you think the Japs don't thrash the hell out them? Lift a seal somewhere on the car, it's a dead giveaway for a respray. All that aside, there's not much a full inspection and test drive wouldn't reveal. As long as you have some mechanical knowledge or have a comprehensive check carried out, you should be fine.

Okay. I'm slow today......... Not if you're a Cheesehead.

If it happened before I would take it back to the mechanic and ask to have it fixed properly this time at no cost. And $900????????????? This is why I do all of my own repairs!

You need to remove the headlight and find the leak and seal it or else it's just going to reoccur. As far as getting rid of what's in there, your best option is more than likely going to be to go for a night cruise so your headlights are on for enough time to evaporate the condensation that's in there.

More than likely the thrust (throwout) bearing. 2 hours work and a $30.00 bearing.

If you want FRP for the Gts-t, Carmate have them here: http://www.carmate.com/product_details.php...id=NSGTS91GTRFB

I believe to Bubba. I haven't checked the ADR to confirm this, it's only what an inspector told me.

Yippee I'm in there. Man I gotta sort my paint out though!

The rubber portion? Do you mean behind the boot where the rod attaches to the fork? If you're talking about that, just put a seal kit through it.

There's heaps of threads on what the cause may be and how to fix it, try a search and you'll see what I mean. Possible suspects include AFM, AAC valve, cracked/split vacuum lines, cold start valve, etc. Have a search and you'll find tutorials and step by step instructions on what to do. Good luck man!

Have a look at the fuel pump cradle gasket and the fuel lines going into the tank first and see how you go. Good luck!

Cap the ends of the connections and tape them up to prevent drying out and contamination.

It's very do-able man. Lines, condenser, and compressor are all replaceable and serviceable items. If you want it out without damaging anything, and then replace it down the track it's just another time consuming task. As far as leaking is concerned, you'll just have to replace the o-rings.

Guilty...............

FRP doesn't shatter like CF. In WA FRP is legal on pre-94 vehicles.

Lucky boy. Wait until daylight and check your entire braking system out. From the master to the ABS unit, to the wheel slaves. You'll find it.

Dealers will tend to sell at a higher price than private so be aware of that. Search around in carsales.com, the classifieds, Auto Trader or here online to see if something is within reasonable travelling distance to where you live. If it's local to you at least you can view the car and see what you're getting before you buy it.

Yes you can. You wire an inline fuse to a switch and crimp spade terminals where the original fuse location is situated in the engine bay. Just be aware that to get back into AWD, you have to flick your switch back and turn off the ignition to reset the feed.