GoHashiriya

Appreciate the feedback, I’ll get on the case.

Hi all, Over the weekend I installed the Walbro GSS342 (G3) 255 fuel pump in my ER34 RB25DET and replaced the fuel filter. I used the original strainer with the pump. The pump did not fit directly in the cradle, I had to bend the seat outwards to get it to fit. As you may have guessed from the title, the car has been bogging down under acceleration, under any kind of load it will initially bog down before picking-up again. The car is bone stock besides a cone filter. I have read the threads regarding the rewiring to a direct feed from the battery but didn't think this was a mandatory requirement for running the pump with a stock car. Could it be that the Walbro pump is faulty? I have since bent the cradle back and thrown the stock pump back in, it now seems to be working as it was before. I switched the pump due to the original one having a faint whining sound and also delivering occasional bouts of bogging down during acceleration. Say, two or three times over the last 1,000 kms. Any input would be much appreciated, before I spend forever filing a return in Japanese.

This is just an FYI for anyone visiting in the future. The list of tracks posted on https://www.motoracing-japan.com/circuit/index.html is in no way comprehensive. Japan is home to heaps of tracks, see my map of the tracks around Nagoya. If you go anywhere and just search for サーキット (circuit) using google maps, you should find a bunch around you. Sometimes they offer rental cars; you'll need to visit the track's website (with google translate) to find out.

Try cross-referencing the part numbers on the Nissan EPC data site. This should help.

No worries, cheers for the appreciation. I should probably note that the rears are hitting the bumper tabs under high compression - happened a few times on the highway. I think the toe is out quite a bit (toe in) - just from eyeballing it. The 255/40s were the fronts off my Z, they're not ideal but they fill the gap well. I'm undecided of where to go from here, possibly 265/35 rear and 255/35 front when i upgrade (hankook V12s are sh*te). The fronts are scrubbing the liners on full lock and again under compression. I'm gonna heat them up and try to push them back, possibly try and push the fronts up with the arch roller, then I've got some weather stripping to seal the newly-formed gap between the liner and the fender.

Whoops, that's actually 10J +20 for the rear.

Dialled the front camber back to 1.35 degrees (as per the cusco manual), it's probably around 2.5 degrees with the drop. Rear camber is unknown at the moment. Wheels: TE37 SL 9.5J, +22/ 10J +10 Tires: Hankook V12 Ventus Evo2 235/40/18 front and 255/40/18 rear Fenders rolled flat.

I'm figuring out my setup at the moment - alignment isn't for another 5 weeks. For the front I'm running TE37s in 18x9.5 +22. Camber arms are Cusco and they're set at the max negative setting, which is -2.2 according to the manual, but are likely around -3 with the drop. Front tires are 235/40 Hankook V12 Evo 2s which I'm using for getting the sizes right. Arches are rolled flat and pulled very slightly. As you can see, there was probably no need to do this. I'm contemplating getting 255/35s up front and dialing the camber back to -1.35 (as per the manual) but it will be tight. I am currently hitting the fender liners at full lock. Sorry the pic is portrait, I took this to send on my phone.

This is good news, thanks for the info. Forgive my 170,000 JPY’s worth of panic panic! It’s still a worrying prospect that they think they can double prices in a single blow.

Approx. 370,000 JPY, previously (as little as a month ago) 185,000 JPY for the 32010-AA520. I've been watching new ER34 transmissions via Trust Kikaku (Trust Planning in english) with intent to pick one up later this year. Yahoo auc item number: 663151206. Perhaps they're still available via the Nissan dealer, I'll try and get a quote next time I go by.

The list price on new ER34 manual transmissions has just doubled here in Japan, much to my dismay.

You're correct, it's an RB20 box - a questionable choice for a swap into an ER34. I know, I know - a budget for a suitable transmission is in the works. The switch in question for me is the one just forward of the shifter:

Over the weekend I had a glance under the car and found the neutral switch - located just forward of the shifter - isn't plugged into anything. I've tried searching but have found limited results indicating the colours or location of the wires I need to plug this into. If anyone can point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated. The best description of the wiring I've found is this: "When you (have) disconnected the loom from the gearbox, you should have disconnected 4 plugs. The green and black plugs on the PNP switch, the plug for the speedometer which is grey with an orange and a black wire, and a second speedometer plug, which is brown. I’ll start with the PNP plugs. You only need the black plug. On the black plug, there are 3 wires that you need. The red wire for the reverse switch, this also needs a earth wire that you can splice from the earth (black wire) that goes into the speedometer sensor. The other two wires that you need are the brown with yellow stripe and green with white stripe. These are for the neutral switch." The thread is regarding an R34 auto-manual swap. Do these wire colours apply across the board for the 34? Apologies for the poor quality pic, it was relatively tight under the car.

Fortunately it doesn't look too bad. I would just get a wire wheel on it and take it back to bare metal, clean it up, then get some rust protector (POR15 or similar) on it and cover it with some underseal. The most worrying part would be whether the rust has gotten in above the pinch welds. In which case it will need professional help - cutting, welding etc.

Prices are up. There was a piece on NHK (local news site) last year about how corona virus is prompting more business-types to spend less time going out and more time, and consequently money, on leisure activities, including buying cars. Skylines and the rest of the legends are increasing to astronomical highs over here.

Honestly, It's gonna take me about a month to crack on with this job. I've gotta move house next month which will hold me back. I'm going to try and do coilovers, hicas lock and arms next weekend, plus get the wheels mounted and aligned. It's the wrong order I know, but I don't wanna have the car in an immovable state before moving. I appreciate everyone's input so far and will be sure to update this when I make some progress.

That's alright. I have got a copy already, albeit only the R34 one which presumably doesnt cover my 32 trans. Thanks for the reminder though as it did slip my mind.

Thanks for the feedback both of you. The neutral switch will be up there on the agenda. Any pointers for assessing it's situation? Will I need the car on a lift, or is this accessible through the shifter opening in the centre console? Bear in mind the car has an R32 transmission. Thermostat pointer noted - cheers. I have an oil leak coming from the oil cooler in the thermostat vicinity, so hopefully pulling both will make it a touch easier for installation.

Not as much as when i first visited back in 2015 - I was still seeing a fair few grannies and grandpas driving the 20de models about - plus usual tuners. I'll most likely see 1 or 2 if out and about now - usually modded - but they're certainly becoming rare. Went to a meet the other day and saw a good 10-15 skylines there out of about 150 cars. Cheers pal. Absolutely loving it. I'm accumulating suspension components now and should have it all sorted in the next month. Still having issues unfortunately. I've got a few troubleshooting avenues left to tick off then perhaps I'll try and take it to a shop. Luckily it's still very driveable at the moment.

Hi all, My USB/consult cable finally came through and I just plugged it in (cold engine) to get a reading. First thing I noticed was the Neutral Switch is set to off when I was in neutral and the O2 sensor was fluctuating wildly, subsequently the AF ratio was switching between lean and rich. Edit: upon a quick search, O2 sensor cycling is normal** @ Dose Pipe Sutututu, the ECU is an AT one, part number: 23710-AA513. Before i try swapping this out, is it possible the neutral switch or any of the NDS readings below could be causing this?

Cheers for the response. If you're referring to the idle/deceleration issues, I'm certain it's not normal. I borrowed a factory manual ER34 before receiving mine and the characteristics were as a normal car should be - idle at 700ish, incrementally lower RPM from cold to hot, no surging/hanging on deceleration. This is unfortunate for me, I realise. Pic of borrowed ER34 and mate's S15:

Thanks, I'll add a new thermostat to the to-do list. Can a faulty thermostat be linked to the other idle/hesitation issues?

Hi all, A while ago I started a thread asking advice on buying an HR34, where a member here, Kinkstaah, was kind enough to share some good information for my purchase. In the end, a good ER34 came up and I bit the bullet. In hindsight, the HR34 would have probably been a better shout, seeing as basically everything will be swapped in the end anyway. The new ER34 GTT is a 2 door, AT to MT swap car, which strangely had a 32 transmission (weak) swapped into it. It's in beautiful condition - bar a few scratches - as one of my main criteria for the car was to be as rust-free as possible. The aim for this build will be to supplant the Z33 I had prior and become a frequent track day toy and also cover general weekend driving in Japan. I'll start a build thread once my first batch of parts comes through. I'm currently sitting on some Volks and Recaros which came out of the Z. As of now, I'm experiencing an idle/deceleration/temperature problem with the car; thread can be found here if anyone has some insight regarding the problem:

Hi all, a little update after driving this week: The car will go cold when driving conditions are predominantly off throttle, e.g. on a downhill section when the engine is mostly on overrun. The water temp gauge will go from the 1/2 mark to 1/4 until the driving conditions normalise. The oil temp gauge also doesnt seem to ever get off the minimum mark (70'C) during very light driving - 20mins or more into the drive. This situation is making me question the temp sensor or thermostat. If anyone has any information on whether these can also cause idle troubles, it would be a great help. I haven't received the consult cable yet so am currently unable to troubleshoot this way.

Massive thanks for this - there is a difference in the second last digit between DET MT and AT variants. I will use this for reference and try to locate it on my ECU. Following your initial response I did a brief bit of research on the swap process and came back with information saying an ECU swap was not necessary, just that certain AT-specific ports became redundant afterwards. It is something I will need to look into further for sure. My initial thoughts upon purchase were that the swap has been done, so I can forget about it - rookie. I guess in the mean time I could also try unplugging the MAF and running it, just to tick it off.