GoHashiriya

Yeah that was a pretty good outcome. Fortunately for the BMWs there are an abundance of poverty spec e90s enroute to the scrapyard you can get the cosmetic parts from. Mine came with hideous beige interior in equally as hideous condition - used black cloth interior can be found on UK eBay for £50-£150.

My engine is stock and I'm still in the garage every other weekend fixing it.

I wrote this in a post not long ago but seeing as your question is a tad different: I'm running the OEM R34 brakes for frequent track use with stock power. Have had them rebuilt, Dixcel Z type pads, slotted Dixcel rotors (this combo is noisy as sin) and Nismo braided lines - they're fine and hold up well, the engine begins to get into dangerous temp levels and I have to cool off before the brakes lose effectiveness. Also ran the car with oem pads, rotors, hoses, it also performed fine. My friend is running a 500hp 4 door R34 with the stock r34 brakes with good pads/discs and has no issues. As others have said, the r34 calipers have recently increased in price but probably are still cheaper than any alternative. From memory they're about 400USD in Japan.

That's both surprising and unsurprising, surprising it hasn't lasted and unsurprising since, now I am a BMW owner again - previously owned an E46 - I'm realising how broken everything is comparatively to my R34 which is 9 years older. I can't really trust BMW these days and will be stuck in 5-10 years when I need another RWD car to f**k about with - still do like driving them though.

Does the R33 have the same solder joint problem in the MAF as the 34? Could be worth checking the status of those.

Injectors haven't been sorted out entirely and the price has trippled for them over covid. You're looking at USD500 a pop, and you'll need six in one go (sometimes can get away with one bank of 3 depending on your car) if you're moving above index 10 (or 11,- can't remember), 12 is the latest version. I bought an N53 325i last year, which has most of the trauma of the N54 but none of the power. That said, I do want to turn it into a 325i cup car. I've since realised the Skyline is significantly cheaper though E90 is a better car for normal use.

I can add it to my cart. As far as I know they sell retail, domestic (Japan). For international shipping try what GTSBoy said, or Tweed Auto Garage (same thing as Jesse Streeter) just I have experience with Jordan at Tweed Auto. I dont think you can go wrong with either.

Shaft auto service have a similar looking lip for the stock bumper. You should try them (Japan-based).

You're both absolute heros, thank you.

Hey, where did you get the service manual in nihongo? My mechanic is asking for it. Searching in Japanese is like dating whilst deaf and blind

Yeah that's the one. Actually, appreciate this as I couldnt wipe the 36 code after and didnt think the signal wheel had made contact with the sensor - it had. I left the car at the shop and will have my mechanic switch it out this week. I know, it's an easy job, but I have zero time at the moment. Shaken is on the 5th.

Thanks for the help @joshuaho96, pulled the codes today and got 36, rear left ABS sensor short. Then found what you see in the pic. Gonna get it on the lift this afternoon and attempt to sort it out. Fingers crossed may get next week’s track day in after all.

Running Recaro SR3s, rails are Juran racing (some Japanese brand). I do not recommend for heavy track use as they don’t provide enough support. Look good though. I will likely be switching for Bride Zeta 4s in the coming year.

Appreciate the info, first port of call will be digging for these additional codes. I may try to get ahold of a known working ABS computer from a friend and try the easy way of plugging it in to see if that works - I imagine the same could go for the actuator up front. Grateful used ABS computers and actuators are pretty cheap still, if I need one.

I appreciate the level of detail in this, I was unaware NDS1 did not give out the entirety of the codes. We initially scanned it using the NisTune software from @tsuokun. That's where we pulled code 44. Actually, code 44 has since disappeared, and upon running the car this morning there were no warning lamps on the dash - which is of course more annoying. I found a broken earth from the manifold to the strut tower, although this is likely unrelated. You've given me a fair bit to go off so I'll review this and see what I can find.

That 32 is a beauty

Seeing as the system is untouched - bar the TCS motor - I'm wondering whether there is any particular part of it that's prone to failure. Searching in Japanese ive found some examples of people replacing the computer and the motor/pump to rid the ABS/TCS/Slip lights from the dash but they never go into detail.

I have a feeling this particular failure is the solder joints in the control unit itself. I've read about this a few times, but cant confirm as - touch wood - it hasnt happened to mine yet. Similar issue to the boost sensor and MAF sensor solder joints. If this is the case you'll want to look inside the unit, as if youre replacing the bulbs, and confirm the internal connectors are working. Otherwise, I see the units pop up on yahoo auction form time to time at about 100k JPY or 1,000 AUD Sorry, missed the part where you said its been tested in another car. Scrap what I said and follow GTSBoy

Exactly what @tsuokun said. Nistune isnt possible with the tight timeframe. Plus I'm of the camp that's too pussy to drive with ABS off. 17: ABS-TCS control unit circuit - Throttle control unit detects malfunction in the system. (open throttle sensor, harness, etc.) / TCS/ABS Control unit detects malfunction 44: ABS-TCS communication circuit - Malfunction (open/short circuit, etc) is detected in multiplex communication line between engine and TCS/ABS

Was out for a drive in Tokyo with a fellow member this past weekend when my ABS, TCS and Slip lights came on. We did a test, and yep, no ABS. Scanned the codes and got 17 and 44. Conveniently this has occured about 500kms after replacing the TCS motor on the throttle body; I've been plagued with a recurring code 17 and TCS motor failure for the past year, although it didnt really phase me until I realised I have shaken coming up in December and codes = failure. The TCS motor flap is still moving on startup and I'm hesitant to believe the replacement is causality, after all, it's just a plug and its operation (or lack of) never caused ABS failure before. All fuses are fine - checked visually and with a voltmeter - which then led us to the ABS system. As the ABS pumps and relays seem to be one unit and with used variants being two a penny on the auctions, I have taken a punt with a 2,000 yen (with warranty) replacement 47600-AA000. However, after some digging, I've come back with the following headf*ck: Part Numbers: 47600-AA566 Latest revision of the pump and about 200k from Nissan. This is stated as being compatible with the ER34 RB25DE, RB25DET plus Silvia S15 and Stagea 34. 47600-AA500 Currently fitted to my car, looks as though it has been replaced at somepoint. Historical info is limited although I can confirm it was available for Silvia S15 and Stagea 34. 47600-AA000 Came on the ER34 RB25DE, Silvia S15 and Stagea 34. I can find no reference to it ever being fitted to the ER34 RB25DET, although it did come on the Stagea RB25ET. I have three weeks to get this fixed and was really hoping to get a final trackday in for the year before I turn the car back to stock-ish for shaken. So, has anyone had any experience with these ABS actuators and can confirm the interchangeability? Or even better, anyone had issues with the ABS system and managed to fix it by other means? We can feel the motor give some kind of response with the car on. It's getting power. Car is running stock auto ECU.

You can likely just buy a generic once from Amazon - that's what I did, although originally for a different prupose. I also now have the door-surround trim coming away 5-10mm from the body. Initially I panicked thinking somone had tried to break in, but the other side is the same and there are no pry marks. Strangely, I hadn't noticed this before and I'm pretty meticulous when it comes to the car. There has been some intense weather recently and I'm starting to suspect this gave it the final release it needed to pull away. Does anyone know how these fix to the body? I tried to push my weight on it but it doesn't move at all. I have bigger car problems at the moment - as is usual - but will attack it before year end.

Just incase anyone ever goes down this rabbit hole. I contacted Mitsuba and got the following response, it's as expected: Dear Mr. Perry This is Mishima in Mitsuba. I'm sorry for replying late. Firstly, we apologize for the inconvenience, but currently we cannot help provide you with any design information and sell to anyone other than the vehicle manufacturer due to the transaction contract with the vehicle manufacturer. As you know, the authorized Nissan dealer do not sell these motors. We have no idea about it. So we apologize for not being able to meet your request. We would like to hope your kindly understanding our position. ミツバの三島です。 返信が遅くなり申し訳ございません。 まず、誠に申し訳ございませんが、現在は車両メーカーとの取引契約により 設計情報の提供や車両メーカー以外への販売ができません。 ご存じの通り、日産様の正規販売店はすでにこれらのモータの販売をしていません。 我々にはなす術がありません。 よって、ご要望にお応えすることができず申し訳ございません。 何卒ご理解賜りますようお願い申し上げます。 If you can be f*cked, get in contact with Nissan and then Mitsuba. I was requesting design information or a replacement. Of course I understood the likelyhood of getting this.

Not sure what you mean by "nice" but you can have my old AT shifter surround if you want, just cover shipping. This is provided I haven't binned it already. *EDIT: Whoops wrong car. Ignore me and delete this if poss.

So before I put the headliner back in I thought I'd give the sunroof motor a good workout to ensure it works consistently, and guess what, It opened and got stuck. It started exhibiting the same sort of problem as the second motor I bought. After a few minutes it worked - the sunroof closed - then it worked seemingly well for a bit and got stuck. Instead of pulling apart the motor I thought was fixed, I decided to take a look at the second motor. Tested continuity across the board, tested the switch (in the car) and it all checked out okay. That's when these two little buttons inside the motor got my attention. In short, bottom button pressed, sunroof opens, left button pressed sunroof closes. No buttons pressed, tilt function works (motor works in forward and reverse). The buttons are operated by this white gear, so it seems that the timing is off with the gear, or something is worn, not allowing the button(s) to be fully depressed at the correct time. What I can't seem to get my head around is how the motor switches between tilt function and sliding function, as the open (sliding function) button/switch must be both closed and open simultanously - only tilt or slide works at one time. As there seems to be no third input here. That's where the little copper spring may come in, although it really doesn't seem to move. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Yeah I would think the same, all I did was use Amayama to tell me which models the part number was suitable for. Although, on my quest for a motor, I never did see anything which resembled it entirely. Nissan was a huge loss maker back in the 90s (possibly still is), perhaps things like this is why.