GoHashiriya

So, great news. Today I pulled the rack and "fixed" the sunroof. The issue with the binding mentioned a couple posts above was that the wind deflector arm hadn't been fastened to the rail correctly. This either occured when we first pulled the rack and reassembled everything super quickly to make it to a mate's BBQ (likely) or it was knocked by some other means. There was also some slight deformation where the arm fixes to the rail, probably caused by incorrect installation and then binding against the sunroof guide. The used motor I bought is still a dud, I'm using the original motor that my mechanic worked his magic on. The second motor seems to work intermittently, sometimes slides a little, sometimes tilts a little, but yeah, it doesnt work. I would actually like to fix this one to keep as a spare; so when I get time, I'll also take this one apart and see what's wrong with it. It does seem as though the initial fault was caused by the motor, then my d*cking around with it caused the sunroof to not retract properly. You won't be able to buy a new motor, Nissan doesn't stock them anymore, and the company that produced them - based near me in Gifu - seems to only deal with corporate clients. If/when I can dismantle the second motor to find the fault I'll post the result here.

420 you say? Have you tried a different strain?

Tried. Mechanic doesn’t have it as he’s not an AC specialist. Best course of action is to find an AC guy, or just come back in a few months and get him to check the pressure

We just topped it up with gas and it works fine. But that doesn’t rule out a leak. We haven’t found anything yet.

How perfectly, like fit in the factory sunroof opening? These things are seemingly discontinued also - unsurprisingly. But there still seem to be a few kicking around for sale online. Not cheap on the Japan sites.

Yeah, I've thought about this too. For me, this would be a back-in-the-UK kinda thing as I have the issue that basically no one has that they can't properly converse with body shops and subsequently be able to trust them. I do like the extra light that comes through from having a 20-odd kg scrap assembly at the highest point of the car though. 😒

I’ve seen those for sale over here too. The thing is, I don’t particularly like the idea of some guy I can barely communicate with cutting up the roof panel. So I should rephrase my question to: is there an option to fit a third party sunroof in the factory sunroof-spec roof panel without cutting up the OEM roof panel? Yep, OEM prices for sunroof components are at dumb prices. >20k yen for one of the pulley wires. It’s possible a factory 25yr old sunroof is better than a post-break-in damaged sunroof assembly. I’d go for it provided the local hoarders don’t bid into the extremes for it.

Haha sure. One of the guys here pointed out a complete 34 assembly in Aus but shipping was outrageous. So for me it has to be in Europe or Japan. FYI, there is an HCR33 sunroof for sale on yahoo auction for 10,000 yen: https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/s1041724665

I had to buy a harness that sits between the OEM harness and the aftermarket stereo. The adaptor harness had its own earth, perhaps its that. It should be a pretty simple thing to install.

From my understanding Japan is more like the US. When searching the Japanese sites there were posts encouraging you to DIY it with a can. Is my mechanic a qualified AC guy, probably not, but he's nice enough to speak with me in Japanglish and seems pretty honest, so what can I do.. Japan has tight regs but operates on an honesty-based system, sort of like a "you can do this, but don't do it". And guess what, the regs are loosely enforced. Engine oil goes in the trash which differs to the UK.

Is it possible to (not in a money-no-object sense) to get an aftermarket sunroof to fit the stock cut-out? I do wonder because I've been dealing with sunroof trauma for about 9 months now on my R34 and have always seen the aftermarket ones advertised. It would be great to get an aftermarket system that retains the stock glass. On a side-note, some of the sunroof parts from Nissan are discontinued. I've occasionally seen R33 sunroof assemblies floating around international auctions whilst on my hunt for an R34 one.

No, not that specific. I mean I applied 12v to it and listened to it click. Well, good to know I should be doing it that way for future reference. Just picked up the new relay from Nissan so the relay will get replaced anyhow. If no change, I'll just keep the old one for a spare. Also good to know. I'll try and look over the system for any leaks - from the front there is nothing visible but I realise it goes back toward the cabin. Are there any famed spots to pay attention to? I won't be able to progress with this until the weekend.

Sorry, I should have mentioned the relay has been tested (out of the car) and it seemed fine. However, I did read a post by someone in an earlier thread mentioning they tested relays, they tested okay, then tried a relay from another car which solved the problem.

Ordered a relay today (also arrives today 😀), along with a new pressure switch - it was cheap okay. Did the bypass-the-relay trick this morning and compressor fired up, had cold air, ran it for a couple minutes then shut it off just in case any damage would be caused. I did not notice the usual high-rpm adjustment, but it can be tricky given that the car was warming-up and I run an Auto ECU on a manual that's kind of all over the place around idle. Mechanic will switch out the pressure switch and re-gas the AC system this weekend. Im under the assumption pulling the pressure switch will release gas. Then we'll go from there. I bottled-it when it came to bridging the pressure switch as there were 3-pins and I didn't know which to bridge. Pin 1 was earth and then the other two went to the ECU.

I should mention that there is no change in engine RPM when the AC button has been pressed. I will try bridging the pressure switch if necessary once the gas status has been confirmed.

Hi all, I noticed last week that the AC stopped working, we've just come out of winter and it is most noticeable now. That said, how long it has been non-functional for is beyond me - last summer it worked fine. I didn't notice any issues up until December, then the car was rarely used over the winter. When I say not working, the green AC light illuminates but the compressor doesn't start. Blowers are fine. I've ran through the diagnostic procedure, nothing under step 2, I just get 20. No issues under step 3. Under step 4, it cycles through the different outputs, just no actual AC. I checked the the cabin air temp sensor next to the steering wheel, just in case I disconnected it when installing the alarm recently - it's fine. All fuses have been checked. I have tested the relay, it's fine - there is 12v to pin 1 and (I think) 3. However, the relay does not click when the AC button is pressed. Also, from prodding the compressor wire, there seems to be no 12V under any state. I'm guessing the ECU is not grounding the relay. My question is, what are the likely causes for this - no gas (unfortunately this is something I can't check until next w/e), or sensor? A little direction would help a lot. Japan is getting hot AF.

Maybe me. Transmission started whining after 3k kms at a track day. I used the factory-filled stuff for run-in, then changed to fully synthetic Syntrans "GL4+" 75W-90 (TAF-X) at about 800kms. When my new box comes I plan to just use the Nissan GL4 75W-85 consistently.

I managed to find a used motor and bought it just for peace of mind. Well, it didnt help at all, the issue still persists. This one seems to have different quirks, perhaps it's also a dud. I need to pull the rails out and test the switch. The issue is perhaps something to do with the sliding mechanism. This won't get fixed in a hurry because pulling the sunroof out and leaving the car with a hole in the top is a bit of a pain without a garage/secure parking.

Can't compare. But they're not as bad as Manila drivers. Though they're significantly worse than Northern European drivers

Word of warning: the Japanese are terrible drivers

Looks good! Dare I say my undercarriage was in better (looking) condition when I bought the car at 230k kms in 2020. It looks like a clean car - I'd advise changing all suspension bushes/ball joints off the bat. Definitely replace the steering rack bushes to avoid alignment nightmares.

I was considering the 350Z brembos but opted to get the stock ones refurbished and some higher quality pads (Dixcel Z type vs OEM previously) plus slotted rotors - bit of a waste for the rotors but I needed new ones anyway. Stopping performance is plenty for my track use, in fact it was pretty good anyway on the stock brakes with semi-slicks.

I don't know. But you could try cross-referencing part numbers on Nissan EPC - that's usually where I would start. At the same time you could accumulate all the part numbers for the items you need.

Don't bother, try to get 9.5s if you can, up to a max of +20 and it will be "about right" but verging on too agggressive. You will probably need a slight fender roll with that. The worst thing is, you'll never be able to max out the tire sizes for your rim - this is the situation I'm in with rear 10j +20. I can get a 265 width (narrow-design) tire on there - forget CR-1s or AD08s - but this width would fit better on a 9.5. 9.75 is an odd size. If they're XXRs, just save your money.

Are you okay getting parts from Japan at the moment? My local post office won't let me send anything to the UK currently due to the Ukraine situation. DHL, etc seem to be okay but the prices are well.. unenticing.