GoHashiriya

In Nagoya, which is always a fair way from other foreigners out here. But yeah, Daikoku in future perhaps.

Oooo, cool! nice car. Glad to see you're keeping hold of this. Where in JP are you based?

Need a sunroof motor if anyone has one. S15 motor is also compatible.

Over in Japan I still see a fair amount of Skylines, although a big difference now is that you seldom see the average driver with a low-spec model. Typically Skylines are owned by enthusiasts only these days.

Just to clarify for anyone searching: the new transmisssion came part-filled with oil from Nissan. We added about a litre of Castrol TAF-X before it started leaking from the fill hole. Shifting is fine - a tad notchy to begin with as expected but I've been shifting slow during break-in anyhow. I will be changing the oil in arround another 500kms, likely this month. As GTSBoy mentioned, crossmember was different - it was the B-type under the RB20 box. Luckily was able to order another from Nissan quickly.

If the RB25DE exhaust will fit, then I know Fujitsubo, 5Zigen and Kakimoto make mufflers for it. The part numbers, however, are different.

The non-turbo and turbo cat-backs have different diameter pipes. The turbo one is larger. As for whether you can mount a turbo exhaust to a non-turbo cat, I don't know. But you could try searching Nissan parts EPC for the part numbers.

Thanks again. As per the Castrol JP site we have: - TRANSMAX MANUAL 80W-90 ($9 US p/l) API GL-4, GL-5 SAE 80W-90 Partially synthetic oil - TRANSMAX MANUAL 75W-90 ($15 US p/l) API GL-3, GL-4 SAE 75W-90 * Partially synthetic oil The first one seems applicable to the run-in case and at less than half the price seems more suitable, financially.

I appreciate this a lot. Thanks for confirming! I’d been using the U.K. castrol site (as I’m a U.K. citizen) for comparison but couldn’t match anything up. I’m unable to find the VMX on a quick search but will check if there is a comparable over here for run in. At $100 (US) for the TAF-X it seems a bit wasteful to bin it after 1,000km. Ah well, we’ll see.

Actually it was a little difficult being in Japan as the products aren’t identical. I ended up with Castrol syntrans 75w90, whilst I was looking for syntrax. The description (translated) reads as this: “Castrol SYNTRANS Transaxle 75W-90 API GL-4 + Thin Trans Gear Oil Mission Oil All Synthetic Oil FF Car Transaxle Combined” On the can it says transaxle, manual transmission and FF. Cheers for your input - being unable to shift properly at high RPM would be pretty inconvenient, so If it is incorrect, I’ll just use it as break-in oil.

Hi all, the box is going in on Monday, Can anyone confirm whether Nissan fill the gearboxes with oil when ordered from the factory? I've ordered some 75W90 castrol for the after break-in change but potentially will need to use it before the transmission goes in.

It really depends on where you're from. Most EU countries have a partnership with Japan so you can get the WHV from the local embassy, it's a fairly easy application, you must be no older than 30 though. I'm from the UK but I know Spain and France can also get it, fairly sure Canada and Aus can also get it. For the US I'm unsure. The other route is to apply for an english teaching job from overseas at one of the pig sh*t ALT co's, pay will be crap - about 200-250k yen - but it will net you a work permit for 1 or 3 years - this is what I have now and can be used to work in other industries. I have a friend that did this, got the visa, came to Japan, quit the ALT job after one or two months after finding a better - although not amazing - english teaching job at an international school.

Congrats on the purchase and welcome. It actually looks cleaner than mine and im JP-based.

Yeah, my mate stacked his 86 into a wall last year and bent the front-right chassis rail. It all got fixed in the end and set him back about 600,000 JPY. That included fixing the crumpled wheel well, straightening the chassis leg, all the body parts, windshield and paint. There's a guy near me that seems to pull chassis legs straight all the time on old Toyotas and then there's the Yashio Factory guys that cut and weld the entire front sections of Silvias. You can get it done but budget high. Tolerances probably won't be perfect but you can likely get it pretty good.

I can't even trust half the agents I've met over here in Japan. Who know's how you'd go about it from overseas. The safest way would be to just buy it from someone with a good reputation - I've heard Rohab is good but can't vouch for it. Otherwise you can go over to Trust Kikaku but expect a price premium. Even once you get past finding a trustworthy agent, part of the problem is the cars aren't always trustworthy; you'll find 4s that should be R-rated and vice versa. You'll never know unless you can get a reliable third-party to check it over for you. Good luck to anyone seeking to import via an agent.

I picked one up from Nissan not long ago, part number was: 08931-3041A. You can double check on Nissan EPC data if there is any variation between our cars. Mine is a '99 ER34 GTT.

Plus one to basically everything that Tsuokun said. In my case I was going to move to Japan regardless but lucked-out a few months before I was about to wing-it and got a job as a Project Manager for an engineering co. The job market here is biased against you, myself and any other foreigner. But heck, give it a shot, I lucked-out with a friendly job so there's no reason you can't either. There are horror stories though, and a lot of them. Send the car back to Japan - agreed. You could opt for getting a working holiday visa and then 'upgrading' to a normal work permit after a while. That's a fairly common route. - I'm in Nagoya

I recently just changed the tire setup on my car. As mentioned, the previous setup was for trial purposes and I really wasn't a fan. The rear profile was just too large and it kept clipping the bumper tabs. I'm now running Accelera 651 Sports in 255/35 18 front and 265/35 18 rear. It's clipping the liner in the front under lock but as @Kinkstaah mentioned, you can push them back with a heat gun. Wheel specs are the same: Volk TE37SL 9.5 +22 and 10 +20 rear. If I were buying these again (I orginally bought them for my Z33), I would likely get 9.5 +22 all round. Camber is -3 front, -2.4 rear.

Appreciate this alot! From what I can see the R34 AT/MT crossmember is the same - going by part numbers. I did find some information amidst the leagues of info on this site that said the RB20 box will fit the AT R34 crossmember (potentially was an R33) but you would only be able to utilise two bolts to mount it. I'll double check this. Thanks for advising on the crossmember identifiers. I'll expect to do some dismantling of the speedo sensor and a bit more digging when we do the swap.

Hi all, I've been recently getting back on track in the 34 and figured it was time to take the plunge and upgrade the gearbox. I bought the car late last year, it was originally an auto, though the previous owner (or one of) swapped the gearbox with the less-than-adequate RB20det box. This month I have been accumulating parts to convert it to the 30A transmission; bought the 34 tailshaft from the UK for pretty cheap as they're going for 100,000JPY ($900-ish) here (Japan) and this week placed an order for a new 30A from Nissan. The good news is, a lot of the harder to source parts I already have from the previous swap. However, I'm not 100% clear on what I can keep and what needs replacing. I know there's some funny business involved with getting the 32 mechanical speedo to work with the 34 one, but am not clear on what modifications would have been made and how to reverse them if necessary. From what I've read, the modifications take place on the sensor side. Although, I have come across information regarding calibration of the tachometer. Will the master cylinder / lines be reusable for the new transmission? I've put together the following list, and it would be great if someone could point out anything I'm missing. Component Part Name / Number Unit Price Shipping Total Transmission FS5R30A 32010-AA520 ¥214,000 ¥15,000 ¥229,000 Propeller Shaft Nissan 37000AA500 ¥39,313 ¥30,000 ¥69,313 Clutch EXEDY ER34 Clutch 3-piece set 30210-AA001 30100-AA068 ¥42,350 ¥880 ¥43,230 Flywheel NA 　 　 ¥0 Spigot Bush NA 　 　 ¥0 Shifter Nissan 32839AA501/32839AB000 ¥5,387 　 ¥5,387 Clutch Master Cylinder ? 　 　 ¥0 Clutch Slave Cylinder Nissan 3062012U20 ¥10,753 　 ¥10,753 Clutch Master - Slave Lines ? 　 　 ¥0 Pedal Assembly NA 　 　 ¥0 Transmission Oil 　 　 　 ¥0 Clutch Fluid 　 　 　 ¥0 Labour 　 ¥100,000 　 ¥100,000 Resale (old parts) 　 　 　 ¥0 Total 　 ¥411,803 ¥45,880 ¥457,683

Yeah I think you're both right, particularly seeing as I plan to keep the car long term. I'll just jump on the new transmission before the price gets revised further.

I'm in the market for a transmission upgrade and am curious as to what your thoughts are on current pricing for FS5R30A transmissions. For a bit of back story, I bought my R34 GTT last year and it came with the the less-than-suitable R32 RB20det (71C) gearbox, which was used to swap the car from AT to MT at some point . I frequently visit the track for both grip and drift sessions, although recently, less so on the latter due to fear of killing the box. The 71C has to go, and it will be better to sell it whilst it's fuctioning. Nissan prices for the FS5R30A are in the region of 240,000JPY (2,200USD) now, up from around 180,000JPY (1,600USD) last year. There's a used FS5R30A with 100,000kms which is claimed to be working on yahoo auction and im questioning whether to bid. it's currently just below half the new cost but I expect it to go up further. The labour cost for a transmission rebuild from what I've found is 120,000JPY, which rules out getting it and having it rebuilt as a cost effective option. A mate of mine has said he wouldn't pay more than 80,000JPY for one but I'm not so sure he's factoring in today's value for the box. So the question is, how much would you pay for this used box with 100,000kms?

The acceleration sensation is subjective and if anything irrelevant anyway. The part number is correct according to the Nismo catalogue, along with the chassis number and Nissan EPC. I did get an update that he managed to fit the flanges and have since picked the car up. However, he did use the original 13mm bolts. Unfortunately he didn't get any pics of the work. He made a comment about how disgusting the insides were and that he was unable to clean up all of the caked oil. The car has about 240k kms on it. I know right, luckily the mechanic was able to get the flanges in today - he told me it was super difficult - and I was able to pick the car up. However, he did not use the 12mm bolts that came with the diff. It is odd, and even if Nismo were to have made a mistake - again, highly unlikely - you'd have thought it would have been corrected this far down the line. Where the mistake lies and what I am going to do with these additional bolts, I have no idea.

Hi all, This morning I took the car to my mechanic to have a new Nismo GT LSD (38420-RS015-BA) installed and he's just contacted me with some issues regarding bolt sizing and flange fitment. So far he's told me that the bolts that came with the Diff assembly are too small, 12mm vs the 13mm in the car already. And also he cannot get the flanges to fit correctly. I should mention that the car is a stock 1998 ER34 GTT, however it came as a factory auto and had been swapped to a (cursed) R32 transmission. I wouldn't have thought the diff has been changed but who knows. As far as the gearing is concerned, I'm certain my ER34 has the AT ratio for final drive as the acceleration is noticeably quicker than another ER34 GTT I've driven. My question is, do you have any idea what may be happening here? I would have thought there would be no issues installing the Nismo diffs. There's also the issue that he doesn't speak much English, and I dont speak much Japanese, but he's a nice bloke and has been very helpful so far and dont good quality work on smaller jobs.

Thanks for the response. I did wonder if this was a physical install problem, particularly sicne the pump didnt fit in the cradle properly. I haven't had time to reinstall the pump since chucking the factory one back in but this is good to know. Did you have any issues with fitting the pump in the bracket? I have since hooked the pump up to an external power source and that was fine from 11.5v up to 14v. Although, that's not really gonna show me what I need to know.