Amin206

Since nobody answered my questions and some people might have these questions and end up here from Google Search I asked my machinist who also does engine building and familiar with rb26 he confirmed that rod bolt size might be different from each other +- 0.005in so probably I can still use my previous rod bolts and also there’s no problem with using the new set that I got so just to be safe I will use the new set cause if one of the old rod bolt changed its size more than 0.001in then it’s not recommended to be used. also after calling k1 multiple times they can’t say whether they used 1.5 length rod bolts so probably they paid someone in China to design their rods. But for replacement always use same size rod bolts and same length and same material. Also does anyone know how to use stretch gauge while installing the rods? Cause it doesn’t look like that main girdle let you put the arp stretch gauge in there

Hey guys my project is about to be done just wanted to say thank you to all who helped me here I’ve learned a lot. I’m still taking my time measuring everything and building the engine by myself. recently came up with this problem my k1 rod bolts are stretched i measured them after checking the clearance and I realized they are different in length by 0.003-0.004in Measured by arp stretch gauge and I decided to get new set but the problem is I can’t find rod bolts for my k1 rods i called k1 and they said they used 3/8 with 1.6in underhead length but mine is definitely a 3/8 with 1.5in underhead length and I don’t think the previous builder changed the bolts as they have k1 tech arp2000 stamp on them so I called arp and they recommended to get this part number 200-6207 which is also a 3/8 with 1.5in length but now that I got the package looks like the new bolts have longer thread length By 0.05in and the head length where the socket goes is also taller Looks like this is the only 3/8 1.5 arp2000 that is available right now maybe mine is an older version . I called k1 twice they don’t accept they have used 1.5in length bolt but one of tech mentioned they might have used 1.5 inches in some of them

Any recommendations for second ring gap ? Im at 0.019 for the top ring also during filling I noticed the black material On one of the top ring chipped looks like another ring set? Does cp sell them separately or I have to get a set for all six cylinders?

Ok bad news is all exhaust valves are leaking instead of one chamber and I measured the chamber 3 times 2 times came up as 64.5cc and 3rd time Between 64.2cc to 64.1cc I would say the 3rd one was more accurate but nothing less than 64cc for sure if the the standard chamber is 64.5 then I don’t think they skimmed the head that much? Also machine shop told me the head looks new and doesn’t look like it’s been used that much like a 25 year old head... So there’s a possibility that previous builders used a new head but the amount of carbon buildup on valves is actually a lot and I can tell the same thing on valve seats so might be the reason for leaking

Yesterday I ordered some stuff to cc the chamber so I’ll be able to get some numbers tomorrow also checking clearance with my old stuff wouldn’t be risky? I’m using a new block and not sure if previous builders decked the older block or not also can’t use the new block for measuring as my older pistons are 87mm and won’t go in there

If you mean cc’ing the combustion chamber how can I figure out how much the head skimmed by cc’ing ? We can figure out how much material (in cc) removed by measuring the volume of the combustion chamber right now minus the std volume but can we figure out how much the height of the head surface decreased? so then I can figure out some number to see if the valve hit the piston head or not... if it’s not possible to calculate that then I have no choice to put something in there to measure...right?

I spoke to the machine shop who resurfaced the head he’s also a builder he recommended 1.3mm head gasket over 1.5 as lower gap between squish pad and piston head will prevent detonation in higher rpm but he also said 1.5 isn’t too thick and should be fine too i think I’ll get 86mm 1.3 gasket And cp 9:1 pistons for better response then I’ll measure piston to valve clearance if clearances were too close then I have no choice To get thicker gasket

We don’t have many options in Canada highest is 94 octane

Yeah I think that’s the best way to make sure about everything also I’m running borgwarner s300sx turbo and looking to get 500-550whp if I go with Cp 9:1 pistons wouldn’t be a little high cr?

Well the problem is I’m using the old head and new block don’t know how much previous builder decked off the head and what they targeted for cr but I asked my machine shop and he said 2 thousands so it was very minimal and it was working properly with 1.3mm gasket . Also there were 87mm wiseco pistons which I think they are 8.3:1 but the 86mm wiseco I ordered is 8.1:1 and if I’m gonna go with thicker gasket then it will be very low.do these after market companies calculate the cr with 1mm gasket? at the end For measuring I should have a set of piston... I can still change the pistons As they are back ordered ... I see cp has 86mm pistons with 8.5:1 and 9:1 cr so if I get 9:1 and running 1.5 mm gasket to be safe with piston to valve clearances then cr will be around 8.6:1 if no material removed from head or block right ? another thing is I’m running 272 kelford cams and it gives 10mm lift

There’s no knowledgeable mechanic here in Toronto that I can trust and I believe I can put more time on making sure about everything and measuring compare to mechanics here... my engine previously built by a well known mechanic in Edmonton where I bought the car .I have receipts that shows previous owners paid over $35000 building this engine 2 times by well known mechanics can’t really trust their measurements and time they put on details. . . also I measured the thickness of head gasket and it shows 1.3mm

I also asked a fellow Canadian who’s ruining 650whp with oem oil cooler for street use and sometimes track days he never had problem as long as temperature checked ... anyway I finally ordered the oem for now... now the only thing left is head gasket and as you guys know there aren’t many options available for 86mm std bore so what’s the best option? should I go with 86.5mm Tomei or 87mm Also still not sure what thickness ...I have to measure previous head gasket thickness and as the head cleaned and lightly resurfaced by machine shop I think I’ll go with 0.1mm thicker gasket

You mean the only part that can’t be used is this: https://tfaspeed.com/products/nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gtr-oil-cooler-cooler-assembly-21305-05u1a if yes then just putting new one might be a better decision for a street car? Also i see that Ross oil cooler blocking plate is only available on some Australian site

Still not able to remove the axle even with bigger hammer I have to try pry bars... Also for the oil cooler I cant find the adapter that mounts directly to the block easily. Most common adapter is the one that mounts to the oil cooler itself ... do you guys recommend to remove the whole oil cooler/heater assembly and use the direct adapter? i mean there’s not enough information about installing the direct adapter I remember there were some coolant line going in there too anyway to just clean it and use it again?

Alright my block is coming soon in 2 -3 days then I’m gonna start building the engine. Any recommendations for standard size main and rod bearings? also one problem is driver side axle is stuck in the place I can’t get it out tried hammering it is not coming off maybe hammer is not big enough ?