Amin206

Since nobody answered my questions and some people might have these questions and end up here from Google Search I asked my machinist who also does engine building and familiar with rb26 he confirmed that rod bolt size might be different from each other +- 0.005in so probably I can still use my previous rod bolts and also there’s no problem with using the new set that I got so just to be safe I will use the new set cause if one of the old rod bolt changed its size more than 0.001in then it’s not recommended to be used. also after calling k1 multiple times they can’t say whether they used 1.5 length rod bolts so probably they paid someone in China to design their rods. But for replacement always use same size rod bolts and same length and same material. Also does anyone know how to use stretch gauge while installing the rods? Cause it doesn’t look like that main girdle let you put the arp stretch gauge in there

Hey guys my project is about to be done just wanted to say thank you to all who helped me here I’ve learned a lot. I’m still taking my time measuring everything and building the engine by myself. recently came up with this problem my k1 rod bolts are stretched i measured them after checking the clearance and I realized they are different in length by 0.003-0.004in Measured by arp stretch gauge and I decided to get new set but the problem is I can’t find rod bolts for my k1 rods i called k1 and they said they used 3/8 with 1.6in underhead length but mine is definitely a 3/8 with 1.5in underhead length and I don’t think the previous builder changed the bolts as they have k1 tech arp2000 stamp on them so I called arp and they recommended to get this part number 200-6207 which is also a 3/8 with 1.5in length but now that I got the package looks like the new bolts have longer thread length By 0.05in and the head length where the socket goes is also taller Looks like this is the only 3/8 1.5 arp2000 that is available right now maybe mine is an older version . I called k1 twice they don’t accept they have used 1.5in length bolt but one of tech mentioned they might have used 1.5 inches in some of them

Any recommendations for second ring gap ? Im at 0.019 for the top ring also during filling I noticed the black material On one of the top ring chipped looks like another ring set? Does cp sell them separately or I have to get a set for all six cylinders?

Ok bad news is all exhaust valves are leaking instead of one chamber and I measured the chamber 3 times 2 times came up as 64.5cc and 3rd time Between 64.2cc to 64.1cc I would say the 3rd one was more accurate but nothing less than 64cc for sure if the the standard chamber is 64.5 then I don’t think they skimmed the head that much? Also machine shop told me the head looks new and doesn’t look like it’s been used that much like a 25 year old head... So there’s a possibility that previous builders used a new head but the amount of carbon buildup on valves is actually a lot and I can tell the same thing on valve seats so might be the reason for leaking

Yesterday I ordered some stuff to cc the chamber so I’ll be able to get some numbers tomorrow also checking clearance with my old stuff wouldn’t be risky? I’m using a new block and not sure if previous builders decked the older block or not also can’t use the new block for measuring as my older pistons are 87mm and won’t go in there

If you mean cc’ing the combustion chamber how can I figure out how much the head skimmed by cc’ing ? We can figure out how much material (in cc) removed by measuring the volume of the combustion chamber right now minus the std volume but can we figure out how much the height of the head surface decreased? so then I can figure out some number to see if the valve hit the piston head or not... if it’s not possible to calculate that then I have no choice to put something in there to measure...right?

I spoke to the machine shop who resurfaced the head he’s also a builder he recommended 1.3mm head gasket over 1.5 as lower gap between squish pad and piston head will prevent detonation in higher rpm but he also said 1.5 isn’t too thick and should be fine too i think I’ll get 86mm 1.3 gasket And cp 9:1 pistons for better response then I’ll measure piston to valve clearance if clearances were too close then I have no choice To get thicker gasket

We don’t have many options in Canada highest is 94 octane

Yeah I think that’s the best way to make sure about everything also I’m running borgwarner s300sx turbo and looking to get 500-550whp if I go with Cp 9:1 pistons wouldn’t be a little high cr?

Well the problem is I’m using the old head and new block don’t know how much previous builder decked off the head and what they targeted for cr but I asked my machine shop and he said 2 thousands so it was very minimal and it was working properly with 1.3mm gasket . Also there were 87mm wiseco pistons which I think they are 8.3:1 but the 86mm wiseco I ordered is 8.1:1 and if I’m gonna go with thicker gasket then it will be very low.do these after market companies calculate the cr with 1mm gasket? at the end For measuring I should have a set of piston... I can still change the pistons As they are back ordered ... I see cp has 86mm pistons with 8.5:1 and 9:1 cr so if I get 9:1 and running 1.5 mm gasket to be safe with piston to valve clearances then cr will be around 8.6:1 if no material removed from head or block right ? another thing is I’m running 272 kelford cams and it gives 10mm lift

There’s no knowledgeable mechanic here in Toronto that I can trust and I believe I can put more time on making sure about everything and measuring compare to mechanics here... my engine previously built by a well known mechanic in Edmonton where I bought the car .I have receipts that shows previous owners paid over $35000 building this engine 2 times by well known mechanics can’t really trust their measurements and time they put on details. . . also I measured the thickness of head gasket and it shows 1.3mm

I also asked a fellow Canadian who’s ruining 650whp with oem oil cooler for street use and sometimes track days he never had problem as long as temperature checked ... anyway I finally ordered the oem for now... now the only thing left is head gasket and as you guys know there aren’t many options available for 86mm std bore so what’s the best option? should I go with 86.5mm Tomei or 87mm Also still not sure what thickness ...I have to measure previous head gasket thickness and as the head cleaned and lightly resurfaced by machine shop I think I’ll go with 0.1mm thicker gasket

You mean the only part that can’t be used is this: https://tfaspeed.com/products/nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gtr-oil-cooler-cooler-assembly-21305-05u1a if yes then just putting new one might be a better decision for a street car? Also i see that Ross oil cooler blocking plate is only available on some Australian site

Still not able to remove the axle even with bigger hammer I have to try pry bars... Also for the oil cooler I cant find the adapter that mounts directly to the block easily. Most common adapter is the one that mounts to the oil cooler itself ... do you guys recommend to remove the whole oil cooler/heater assembly and use the direct adapter? i mean there’s not enough information about installing the direct adapter I remember there were some coolant line going in there too anyway to just clean it and use it again?

Alright my block is coming soon in 2 -3 days then I’m gonna start building the engine. Any recommendations for standard size main and rod bearings? also one problem is driver side axle is stuck in the place I can’t get it out tried hammering it is not coming off maybe hammer is not big enough ?

Well thanks to you guys I’m learning more about this expensive engine... Some people in this forum mentioned these spline gears need accurate oil pump adjustment after installation and without adjustment risk of breaking the gears are very high so as I’m looking for no trouble I think I’ll go with billet gears on factory collar. Anyone know if they need adjustment as well? Or just put the gears in there and bolt it back on? also still not sure n1 or standard pump? If the standard has bigger gears then why pay more for n1? Is it proved that n1 has better oil flow?

If the Upgraded gears don’t have that much of benefit then I’ll go with new n1 pump without upgraded gears just for street use.

So I checked the oil pump and mine is a standard one. This project is getting so expensive and I’m running out of budget... how about getting the standard oil pump again and use my upgraded gears cause if i get n1 pump I have to get new gears which is $600-700 so standard pump + upgraded gears vs n1 pump without upgraded gears?

Does that after market setup help for street use? I saw lots of +600hp setup still using factory oil coolers how to tell if it’s n1pump or standard? I realized some of them also sell these new blocks as n1 block for very cheap price but they’re actually standard blocks

Thank you all for helping me I ordered new block wiesco 86mm pistons manley h beam rods unfortunatley z1 racing is out of stock for n1 crank any other source? For oil cooler I can order the oem part from Japan but it’s $600 what about using aftermarket relocation kit? Any benefits compare to factory? Any suggestions for oil pump? N1 oil pump is available too but my used oil pump has upgraded gears maybe getting regular oil pump and replace the gears with my used upgraded gears?

Yeah too much work and risk I will order new block And crank tomorrow hopefully can drive my car in a month or so... I only had a chance to drive it for 45min but that engine sound is playing in my head all day wish I had more money to get one in good running condition... they’re pretty expensive here in Canada. 2 questions do you guys recommend changing oil cooler and oil pump? My oil pump doesn’t look bad I guess also I’m not sure about using con rods they Look good but the fact that they’ve been into a seized engine makes me nervous also found a small scratch sign on 2 of them can’t feel much by nail though

They only saw the head and cams not the block and crank yet I don’t know them so can’t really trust them for the block but they were recommended in a supra forum and they worked with rbs before. I asked them to do the valve cleaning as well do you guys recommend it or should I tell them to leave it the way it is ? I have 2 receipt that shows previous owners spent more than 25k only for labour at 2 shops and they didn’t do a good job at all So I think I won’t even bother taking the block to the machine shop... how about buying a used block ? One member from this forum have one for sale and he claimed there was no previous damage to the block only bored out to 87mm

I took some pics from con rods pistons oil pump and cylinder bore I think I’ll need new pistons if I m gonna fix the block they are scratched. In the picture you can see the scratches and there are same signs on the opposite side of the piston as well probably oil issue? Oil pump screws were so tight and I damaged one of them while trying to open it any one know what size they are? also I think oil pump is upgraded con rods don’t have any sign of damage but there are sign of wear on rod bearings

Thanks for your advice this is where I am right now I talked to a machine shop that was recommended and they will resurface the head and polish the cams and cam journals they said cams will only need polishing... they can fix the block and crank for $500 I also found used crank in good condition but n1 crank for $550usd is a great price if I fix the block and crank I will only need new pistons cause con rods are pretty good and all my expenses will be about 3k but if I buy a new block and crank it will be around 7-8k I think you would go with second plan which I think I would do the same cause I heard lots of bad stories but only 3k to fix this engine kinda makes me thinking or maybe wishing lol

Well I can’t find one that I can really trust there are some good machineshops and mechanics in b.c and Alberta and most jdm imported cars come from there... I have some documents from the car that shows engine has been built 2 times before. First one shows the reason was only for increasing power and second time was for piston ring failure. the car was burning oil when I got the car I got it checked by a professional mechanic and they spotted oil on piston number 4 and they suspected number 1 too and if you look at the pictures again 1 piston doesn’t have any sign of carbon which is number 4. It could be valve seals or piston rings. as you mentioned oil was the problem... when I opened the drain plug there was not enough oil in there I would say maybe half but I’m surprised because I checked the oil when I got the car and the engine failure happened couple of days after that and I only drove it maybe 30-45min but it was smoking a lot maybe all that oil smoked away? Or dipstick doesn’t show right! I don’t have enough information about boring cam journals.if the cam journal needs boring how the new cam gonna fit in there? There was no bearing in there also my cams are kelford cam oil cooler isn’t reusable after this not even with enough cleaning? thats what I will do tomorrow... con rods still look good though Sure if it helps then why not. thanks