Diomedes

Looking to sell my staggered 19 inch CE28s. In pretty good condition for rims +15 years old, with some minor curb rash on two of the wheels. They are currently running on my R34 GTR, so it can be done running different width wheels so long as you are careful with your tyre dimensions and rolling diameter. FYI, this is a street only car, stock, no drag racing etc, so no idea what could happen if you were to push hard with this setup. Asking $4500 for the wheels, happy to ship at buyers expense. Cheers.

Nah, I think taking the box to neat and getting them to do their shot peening is probably what I will go with.

So, I want to put irresponsibly large wheels on my R34. https://www.yakuzamotorsport.com.au/product/rays-nismo-lmgt4/ or https://mkmotorsports.com.au/products/volk-racing-te37sl?variant=39439393980452 Likely 19x10.5s with 285/35 or 30 rubber. I know that going to a 19 inch might not be the best performance wise. I'm not racing the car, I'm not dragging, I'm just plodding around a couple times a week, and I am willing to sacrifice ride quality for superficial looks. Until I get the engine sorted, I won't be taking the car past 5000 rpm. I will have to roll the guards for sure, but the car is still at stock height. Do you think I would also have to modify the inner wheel arch liner? Has anyone done so?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/459925125773638/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A28efeea7-b1b1-4236-99d0-dd9e2b6e2f2f 9k for this...

I think that might have to be the way, just wait and see if I can snag a bargain... Keen on a R32 unfortunatly, though I have read your build with great interest! Wouldn't want to part you from your muse! haha. And my long term plan for the car would eventually to convert it to an EV, so wouldn't want to undo all your good work! I still have my trusty 2005 corolla for my daily runabout, also.

Mmmmmmm, very good points GTSBoy. I don't like the sense you are making.... Not helping me convince myself it is still possible to get one... True Duncan. I might be putting words in his mouth, but the chap at Jspec said he just didnt want to risk his reputation to import something for a pushy customer and then have them turn around and crack the shits when what they bought turned out to be the rust bucket that he warned them it was... Was just hoping to get something for a semi daily that I could do some work on myself... (Yes, I know a 35 year old skyline isn't the best idea for a daily car.)

Well, hoping that it is a similar situation that I had with the R34. Ended up getting it to aus for around 140k to my door, when stock Vspecs for sale in aus are at least 220k+. At least, listed for. Though, if anyone had any recent auction results that might be interesting

Greetings all! I want to buy some form of R32 sedan, but people are asking almost 30k+ here in Aus, which seems a bit much 🙃 So looking to try and import one. I went through Jspec for my R34, and would definitely go through him/them again, but after reaching out I was informed they aren't looking to import those 90's car anymore. From our short conversation, it seemed like they weren't the only ones who have stopped importing them? Does anyone know a good/reputable importer that is still bringing over the 90's JDM cars? Cheers

I mean, I'm no expert, but you kind of don't have a choice if you want to keep it in the nissan datsun family, straight 6, and EFI? It has to be some sort of RB? Or the only other option I can think of is the TB series? Like the TB42/5E or TB48DE? Could slot one of these badboys onto it https://rossperformanceparts.com/product/nissan-tb48-billet-dry-sump/ 😅 If it's about sound and feel, and not about the numbers you are going to see on a dyno sheet, then the RB25 seems like a decent option?

That is correct Dasmbo, the machine shop that examined it said few journals would have to be welded and built up, then machined back. The damage had the machinist questioning the integrity of a few of the cam cap retaining bolt locations... Basically said if it was a Ferrari, sure, the money and time would be worth it. Not for an RB26 head.

Resolution to the question. While still waiting for those closer photos of the journals/caps, I got into contact with the guy from the repair shop, and he outlined pretty much what Brett/R32-25t said, though in a very diplomatic manner 😅 Head is not worth the money seller wants, maybe only worth as a very cheap experiment to someone with the means and the time to try something crazy on. A bit more to the story, but another case of making sure people should do their homework before buying anything second hand, and again making me very grateful this site exists.

Yeah, I'm gonna hit him up for some closeup photos of the journals/caps. Its at a decent price, especially since it has all the required parts for a complete cylinder head, minus the passenger rocker cover 🙃 I thought the same regarding the head not having oil. Its a camshaft, not a crankshaft? Surely the forces would be small enough that they couldn't do that much damage...

Once more I have come to lap at the font of knowledge 🙇‍♂️ So, continuing to trawl most corners of the net in search of parts to build a complete RB26/30 from relative scratch. Have found a used cylinder head that has come off a 93 GTR. Seller was upfront about history, which is always a good sign. Head came from a mates car, which was a tuned low mount double jobby putting out around 400hp? He was not sure on power. Engine suffered some sort of failure, but lost oil pressure. Said he took the head to have it looked at, and the guy (from head to head in clayton if that helps) said it needed work but could be saved. I'm going to get into contact with the repair shop who hopefully remembers the head in question. But otherwise will pay to have it looked at by a shop to get another appraisal of the head before paying for it, especially since its in Melbourne and I'm in Perth. Now, I'm no mechanic but if the engine is starved of oil the parts that rub together get a bit sad. So I'm guessing the camshafts, the camshaft caps and the journals will need some machine work? Buttttttt, If I don't plan on using the OEM camshafts and plan to go for an aftermarket set, I would need to get the camshaft housings line bored anyhow? So it might not be that big of a deal? What are some of the other problems a cylinder head might suffer if it has run out of oil? 🤔 Included are photos for refrence. Cheers

Check out the GT-R logo on the engine 🙃 100% legit.

(Stealing this from another forum) Here is an interesting conversion job on what looks to be a Rover 200 coupe. Resolution isn't great, but the bodywork on the rear looks pretty good, at least???

Looks good man, new wheels are a great addition!

I'll definitely have to hit them up in the future then. Want to keep the standard 6-speed, sounds like sending it to them for some work will be good to help with reliability and longevity.

Hey all, Looking for a set of the 3.545 final drive gearsets, after front and rear. Also a complete R34 sump. Also after a R32/R33 GTR non-vspec R200 diff. Cheers

Also, thanks all for the info, really helpful!

Thanks for the info, going to get in contact and see if the guys on the UK GTR site still have those parts. Could get lucky! The Nismo final gearset looks nice, but also costs about 5 grand, without shipping 🙃 Have any experience with these guys? What is their work like? Any truth to their claims of making the OEM parts stronger with their treatments?

Yes, that is the most pain-free option. Was just hoping there was easy way to swap a few parts over and have 2 complete 3.545 ratio front diff/sumps. Ever heard of anyone using the Tomei 3.692 Final Gear set?

Really? I presumed they were the same size. Might have to go the R33 GTR non-vspec rear diff route then. Was really hoping that wouldnt be the case.

I'll explain. I want to keep my options open regarding modifying my car, and to this end I have decided if I end up modding the R34, I'm going to pull the engine out complete and keep it together, and build another engine complete to put in and thrash/risk. Aim is to go modest, keep the new motor stockalike with around 400 whp, so I shouldnt need to do anything crazy with the rest of the drivetrain. Preaching to the choir here, but parts for RB26's are getting harder to come by and more expensive. Trying to find a R34 RB26 is proving quite hard, and I would imagine even if i could find one it would be ridiculously expensive. I have found a RB26 that looks to be in decent condition that suits my plan, but has a 2WD sump attached. I have now found a RB26 sump off a R32 GTR, so I now have a 4WD sump to go onto the RB26. Only problem is final drive ratios. What are people's opinions? I have found the part No. for the R34 GTR front diff final drive gearset, 38100-00V00, but they are discontinued and are probably going to be hard to come by, but it seems in my (unqualified) opinion to be the easiest way forward? Anyone ever used this kit? https://www.nengun.com/tomei/final-gear-set What about the Quaife front/rear diffs for the GTRs? (I don't know enough about the kits and what they replace.) The car is a V-spec, which means if I go the other way and change the rear diff I will have to remove the A-LSD which seems to be another giant pain in the ass too. How crazy would it be to remove the entire rear drive assembly and replace it with a R33/R34 GTR frankenstein kit, while keeping the OEM stuff in storage? I have done some reading and research, but haven't come across a thread where someone replaced the R32 front diff with a R34 centre, and the video covering Motive garage and Andrew's 6-speed swap into his R32, but he keeps his 4.11 final drive ratios.

Hey mate, did you have any photos of the cluster?

Hey mate, great looking car! What or where or how did you get those headlights??? Is it a mod you installed yourself?