_Billy_

Just did that, seemed to fix it. Cheers legend

Hey all, so i own a absolute shitbox Mazda 121 Metro 01' Model, and unfortunately when put the new air intake in, as the MAF cable needed to be extended, I hand wired the cable and worked just fine. Somehow when the car had its Clutch replaced, the maf connector disconnected its wires from the plug and so I just believed i could re-wire it and it would be fine and go on its way. I am now at the stage where the motor is backfiring, stalling mostly on start and i imagine, is running at full rich, which is probably flooding the engine. I am also in Uni and have absolutely no money but need the car asap. So basically does anyone have any ideas of what to do since i have re-wired it several times now, and no such success has come. i first rewired the connector and plug, but the plug slowly has been deteriorating so i took the pins out and just for a test wired them to the maf (just by holding them in) to see if that would work but nothing has worked. I also was told that if i do not disconnect the battery, that the MAF sensor and connector could have some sort excess electrical energy inside the cables but i am not sure of how viable and answer that is Cheers all

Hey All, Just a few questions about painting the engine bay of my 2001 Mazda Metro 121. Basically I have chosen to paint it candy gold and am going to just cover the engine and take everything except the block, exhaust manifold and difficult stuff to move out of the engine bay while i spray and pray. Just wondering if anyone would be able to help me on the things I can take out of the engine bay that are non-essential that don't need to go back in to remove the clutter of cables and tubing running everywhere. I notice aircon seems to take a hell of a lot of room up and, to be fair, it hardly works anyway so thats a go off, but would anyone give me any ideas of what else I can remove before painting thats non-essential to the car. I will also say, the car is a piece of utter garbage, so I'm not too worried about removing stuff that won't ever go back in for resale, since I don't think it will ever resell. Thanks Legends.

Hey All, Hope everyone is well. Long story short, Bought a 2001 Mazda 121 Metro (Small Size Little Japanese Demon) with the most underpowered motor and feel, but still at a minimum a fun car, which makes a 60 zone feel like a space shuttle launch. The few questions I have are, one, got two oil leaks. One is coming from the sump plug (probably incorrect terminology), and another further behind. I was wondering since it is FWD if this could be trans or something else but got no clue, been underneath but a new oil leak started today but could be aircon or something i don't understand. I know one is defo engine oil, but the other, i didn't have time to check. If anyone is from Perth and has some time or interested (which i doubt anyone is) I'd owe them a life debt to look at the nugget. Two, I am deciding if I am going to be a dickhead as per usual and cut the exhaust just before the muffler on the final 90 degree bend and stick it under the car and point it towards the underside of the side-skirt. The internal questions inside this are, one, if the pipe doesn't stick down or though the side skirt will it cause exhaust gases to pool underneath the car (close to fuel tank) and do i keep the muffler to f**k the cops off or do i just send it? Three, my final stupid question. Now i know all of you hate pod filters and they are useless, but the pod filter i've added is definitely better than the stock 30mm pipe of airflow that the air-box was connected to. I have absolutely sketched the daylights out of this by finding out that adding a pod involves attaching pod to maf, and then i discovered an air temp sensor which i may or may not have drilled into my stock intake pipe and just plugged and walked away (yes i know it is bad and it is my first car sooo, sketchy is all i've got). To resolve this, I have got 3 inch tubing which will connect all fine (i've tested it) and made sure it plugs all together with the OEM parts, instead of the 2 inch tube. This new tubing is mainly stainless steel with silicon joining pieces and a somehow very well non-sketchy hole with a rubber seal for the air temp sensor ( i know, how advanced!). Anyway, back to the problem, the connection pipe i have made doesn't fit in the car.. , so does anyone have any ideas about how to go about keeping the pod, with new piping? Anyway sorry for the headache that is this nugget, but, have to learn on a trash car to do something bigger... Thanks all Billy

Hi all, I have just been given a Pod filter and I was going to replace the tubing from the filter to the air intake manifold on my 2008 Subaru Impreza Rs. Currently I am unsure if firstly what sensor I am looking at is a mass airflow sensor and also how to reinstall the sensor on new piping. Sorry if this doesn’t make sense, quite new to the EJ20 and have no clue what I am doing.

To be honest, I have but I have just never been a fan. I don't know why but it just something about the wagon Liberty I like. But i have heard good things so i'll add it to my list of options, thanks

Sadly in NSW

Thanks for the help. I'm currently debating whether i get myself a Subaru but I have heard about problems with more used and abused motors and i did also hear the Gearboxes have provided some issues for owners. I have seen a Liberty manual wagon going for 8k but Unsure whether it is in great mechanical condition. If worse comes to worse I can just pick myself up a reliable 80 series Landcrusier which are bulletproof and just hold onto it for a year or so and flog it off for a similar price since they hold their value quite well. Thanks all for the help.

Anyone have any thoughts or problems on the Gen 3 or 4 Liberty GT in Manual? Or does any one know any one who is selling one around WA?

Thanks. Probably not a BRZ or 86, I do like them, but I would rather stick to something less "sporty" if that makes any sense? I've been in my mates BRZ and I just found it uncomfortable for long drives and long drives being more than 10 minutes. I have heard good things though.

1: Budget is sitting right around 10k 2: Only vehicle until March 3: Yeah, have a trash-box Volvo I can borrow. 4: Half Decent Mechanical Aptitude but does have some gaps. 5: I Have access to a Car Port but only for a max of a day at a time but normally it will be in a driveway 6: Manual 7: Preferably 4-5 Seats but not a huge problem. 8: Very Large set of tools 9: No particulary, planning on meeting someone in WA who can help me inspect. 10: AWD- RWD preferred. 11: Most likely street 12: Yes, i know how much money I will lose, but to be honest, completely worth every cent. Overall I have been looking at the Subi Liberty GT Wagon, since the parents won't mind looking at it or a Subi Hatch from 07-12 but unsure which model, due to my lack of knowledge on the Hatch, except that they are "apparently relatively simple" and are a good basis for starting a full time project. Any suggestions would be great, just having to keep in mind that Parents own two Volvos so aren't very keen on anything reliable of sorts.

Hey All, Pretty new to the website (by about 8 minutes), but have always loved Japanese Cars. Really interested in the Tokyo freeway racing scene and also a bit of rally here and there. Need help deciding a low-key first JDM of some sort that is decent, able to be modded and have a lot of fun working on. I originally thought of a Subi Liberty Wagon or the GT model but the 02-08 models seem few and far between and, as I am living at home still for Uni, need to keep it Low-key but would much rather a Rexxie (Rents would kill me) or something of that sort. Anyway, nice to meet you all and feel free to give me some suggestions