JarrettL

Alright, I've held off from posting this because it doesn't seem to make any sense and I know it's a topic that was beat to death and back two decades ago and then again after that. I have an AWD 23U block from an ENR34 that was NA from the factory. I'm rebuilding it with a turbo NEO head and ARP studs to sell it on so I can move on to a different engine build, and I'm stumped on the oil feed. Conventional logic, as I understand it, is that the NA blocks are tapped for the oil feed from the factory, but don't drilled through into the passage. This block seems to have a small hole withing the M12 threaded hole that goes fairly deep into the block material. So it would seem at a glance to be done in this application. Only, this engine has never been turbocharged, and I didn't remove a plug from this hole when tearing it down. Does the hole need to go even further than the depth I've shown here with the drill bit? Am I missing something?

I'm in Texas in the US. I'll be getting rid of most of the drivetrain on this car aside from front axles and the rear tail shaft.

It's the same oil pan/diff that comes on a GTR, so unless they already have an aftermarket LSD, I can't see why they'd want to tear it apart and have to re-shim the bearings. Noted on the value @30ed32. Seems like it's not worth much, but enough to not just toss in the bin. Thanks.

Are GTR guys ever looking for 4.363:1 front differentials? I have an ENR34 and I'm going to be selling the engine as soon as I rebuild it with a fresh DET NEO head, but I imagine a prospective buyer won't have a chassis application that can utilize the AWD setup. So I'm sure I'll be holding on to a 4.363 front diff. Is there a market for these, or are they generally viewed as being too short for typical GTR power levels?

Alright, so here's how you're going to put an OEM MFD cover (and potentially the aftermarket enclosures that utilize factory provisions) into your non-turbo dashboard. Some NA cars had the pop-up navi display and are treated just like GTT cars. But if your dash just has a blank spot, read on. Set the enclosure roughly into place on the dash see where the outside edges will fall on the vinyl surface of the dash. Make some marks on either side about 10mm in from that imaginary line. 10mm isn't gospel, and we'll be adjusting as we go, but it will give you a decent starting point. Cut full depth through the foam along these lines making sure the cuts in the back corners touch, and then remove all vinyl and padding within this boundary. As you can see on the different edges of the MFD cover, there is a vertical surface that will help to tuck the vinyl down so that your cut line cannot be seen. When we purposely cut 10mm in from the true outside edge in the last step, we did that so that we could take advantage of some extra material, and not have our cut exposed. To make this work well, we'll need to "undermine" the foam layer from underneath the vinyl surface around the perimeter. With the MFD cover in hand, repeatedly try to fit it and then adjust the cut line until you think you have it perfect. The brown tape in the back is covering two slots that the MFD cover will slide into. Stick a flathead screwdriver through those to expose the slots. Continue with the test-fitting process. The side I found that gives you the most grief is the side closest to the gauge cluster. You really need to make sure that your cuts have the foam undermined there as that's the side of the MFD cover with the tallest vertical edge. Lastly, one small relief area that I needed was at this point where there's a dimple in the vinyl. I took a 6mm drill bit and drilled a hole into the plastic surface where the plastic protrusion on the MFD cover wants to sit. Don't drill into the vinyl, but next to it. You'll see it when you're test-fitting. I thought my picture was much more self-explanatory when I was taking it, but looking at it now, that's certainly not the case! Obviously at this point you can cut through the entire plastic panel, or you can cut just what you'll need for whatever your application is. I suppose you could even just upholster it with some felt carpet and store your sunglasses in there! I hope this was helpful to someone! It made me nervous to attempt, but in all honesty I was finished in about 25-30 minutes.

Alright, so a year and half later I've finally done this to my car successfully! It really is nearly as straightforward as it sounds, but necessary to keep some considerations in mind when doing so. Pictures are in the process of uploading now, and I'll start writing out a step-by-step for others who want to attempt this. The purpose of this installation for myself was not to run the OEM MFD, but I do want to use the OEM cover to adapt a monitor of some sort inside. Back-up camera is the primary reason, but I'd like to think of more things to add, as well. The cluster is being replaced with an AIM display, so I'm not too concerned with any motorsport data, or critical systems monitoring, but suggestions are welcome! Instructions incoming!

Recently destroyed the front driver ABS wheel speed sensor on my ENR34 due to the iron knuckle rusting and seizing the sensor head. The other one on the passenger side has been soaking in penetrant for a few days, but I fully expect the same thing to occur. The wheel speed sensors seem to be specific to the AWD applications, and likewise the more readily available units from ER34s and S/Z chassis are not the same. An OEM unit seems to be available at $200 USD/ea, which is not ideal, but still fine. But if I'm in this boat in the future, those might not be available. Does anyone know of any wheel speed sensor that uses the same head as the R34 GTR that could be used? Not overly concerned with cable lengths as wiring will be redone to accommodate PMU wiring.

So I don't actually have a GTT, but instead a GT Four, but I figured future searchability would benefit from GTT in the title. Anyway, I have a 25GT Four that I'm doing a temporary engine setup in just to have some fun with the RB25. I've purchased a NEO turbo head which is at the machine shop, and I'll be buying a Freddy forward-facing plenum. So the OEM GTR intercooler seemed a good choice for the new piping layout. Many searches have explained that this will fit, which I had no doubts about, but what I'm really wanting to know about are the OEM lower brackets. The OEM upper brackets that attach to the aluminum GTR bumper support are given as that's the REO bar currently on the car. But the lower core support of the GTR and non-GTRs are different, and I don't know exactly where the OEM lower brackets bolt. I've tried looking for pictures and videos of intercooler replacements on GTRs and not found anything good that shows a good angle. Can anyone tell me if I can use the OEM lower intercooler brackets for an R34 GTR on my non GTR R34, or does it utilize provisions only found on the R34 GTR lower core support that aren't present in other models?

I'm on mobile now, so I can't see my profile. I thought I had it on there, but if I don't it's an ENR34. Looking to run 3 circular connectors. I was thinking someone may have utilized some space on the lower portion of the firewall that's not incredibly obvious from above.

Does anyone here have any picture examples of locations on the firewall they've run a circular bulkhead connector like the Corsair/Amphenol units commonly referred to as "milspec", or Deutsch AS connectors? After looking around a few times, it seems like all of the good space is right behind the ABS module, but with no room to connect and disconnect them as it's pretty tight? Anyone have any other ideas on a car that will retain AC and heat?

I was looking for a solution to this, as well. I have carbon Z-tune replica fenders which are even wider than the OEM GTR guards, so I don't even think the GTR liners are an option. Then again, I have no real experience.

I'm not after the whole cover. I purchased that new, OEM. Just the bezel that frames the screen. If that's what you meant, then I didn't see something like at 3D Racing Solutions. Just the whole cover. And I understand that most people wouldn't want to share a file. But the general attitude of the post was mostly one of seeking information.

To your initial statement, I've seen many bulk moldings with varying dimensions that come in a roll, so don't have any pre-formed corners like OEM. Given the substantial step, it would likely have to be a fairly unique cross-section, but perhaps not. To your second point, sounds good. I'll order an OEM one.

I drive an R34, but it is not a GTR, so it doesn't have an OEM MFD. I recently ordered an MFD housing because I want to do a custom project with a monitor for a reverse camera. The OEM bezel has a curved transition that will take a bit more work than just a flat ABS panel, so I was wondering if anyone had successfully 3D-printed something, or has a file they wouldn't mind sharing.

Have any of you with an R34 that have had your windshields out for paint or for replacement found a better molding than the OEM unit for the perimeter of the wind screen? The OEM molding leaves quite a substantial step up from the glass surface to the surrounding body. I was hoping there was something that provided a little more smooth transition. As I'm not a fluid dynamics engineer, and I have zero hours of experience with R34s in a wind tunnel, I'm just imagining there's room for improvement because of the ~6mm recess. And I'd feel a little silly if OEM was the only answer as I just placed a large order through Amayama and would have to have a SEPARATE shipping fee where it could have been free had I remembered to order it 6 days ago when the other order was placed.

How does the X-Trail pedal fit up compared to the 350Z? I've read that the Z just bolts right up, but the pad position falls slightly too close to the brake pedal unless modified.

R34 aluminum front lower control arms are cheaply available on Yahoo Auctions, as well. No adjustability, but they're lightweight. The front knuckles on all GTRs are aluminum, where yours are iron like the Stagea and Laurel. They can be swapped for either BCNR33 or BNR34 knuckles, but I would imagine you'd need the uprights, as well. I can't confirm this yet(my iron knuckles and ENR34 uprights are still in the car, and my BNR34 knuckles are being used to mock up brake upgrades), but there are part number differences. The kingpins are the same, so maybe just a height difference in the shock mount. Again, I can't confirm, so don't quote me. Just different part numbers. Plan to swap the assembly on either side if you go this route. If you can't find ER34 (turbo only) or BNR34 rear aluminum knuckles, then plenty of older Skylines, as well as Z32s (and if you have an Australian Q45 equivalent) have aluminum rear knuckles, too, only with a smaller diameter rear lower shock mount. BNR34 rear shocks still seem to fit it fine, though. If you source these from a model with larger rear hubs/bearings, you can just swap yours onto them. For Black Friday deals, I bought Whiteline front and rear sway bars for 25% off, so maybe wait another 8-9 months for those if you can. Or OEM GTR sway bars are dirt cheap on Yahoo Auctions.

As Duncan said, the front frame rails are different. The RWD Skylines have a similar front subframe and bracing as a Silvia, where the AWD Skylines/Stageas/Laurels have front frame rails that are notched to allow for CV axles to pass under them and move up and down. The front frame rails also have different mounting points to use a much larger front subframe that houses true wishbone lower control arms. This subframe attaches in 4 places instead of 2 and uses 8 bolts in total. The floor under the driver's left foot is relieved for the transfer case and front driveshaft, as well. So let's say you bought all of the suspension/drivetrain stuff: front subframe front lower control arms front knuckles and uprights front shocks front CV axles front sway bar oil pan w/ front differential to match the rear ratios front driveshaft transmission w/ transfer case rear driveshaft So now you have to control the transfer case. The ATTESA system in these uses a hydraulic pump located under the boot on the driver's side and sends variable amounts of hydraulic pressure to the transfer case to apply pressure to plates that send power to the front driveshaft. There is quite a bit of plumbing involved, and even more wiring as this integrates with ABS/TCS. All this to say that it's fairly unrealistic. If you buy all the parts, you still have to cut and modify the floor section where it meets the tunnel, and you have to notch and reinforce the front frame rails to accept the very different front subframe. It's been done before, but it's just not practical. Especially since these parts aren't just being tripped over in the corner at multiple importers like they used to be. Do what I did. I wanted an AWD R34, but couldn't afford a GTR. So I bought an ENR34.

My Link is not the plug-and-play model, but is a G4+ Thunder. I'm doing an engine swap that necessitates an ECU that can control dual DBW throttle bodies and 4 camshaft position sensors, so it's either the one I already purchased and own, or it's MOTEC. At $2110 USD after taxes, this one just made more sense. I will still take your advice and consult with Link on their forum. I hoped to spread some questions out as Adam over there is an absolute genius and I fear I'll wear out my welcome before too long. With as many pinouts as their are on that ECU, chances are that one of the PWM-capable positions can replicate TPS signal as an output.

I'll dig a bit tomorrow when I can go outside and peruse a bit inside the car, but I'm curious to know where the wiring is similar to a GTR because of the ATTESA commonality. So while my original concern of losing ABS may not be much of an issue, ATTESA might. I wish there were more ENR34s out there so some of this was documented.

Oh, for sure. But I'd prefer it over nothing at all. For now, anyway. It's behavior during a track day with sticky tires and the 355/350mm Brembos will be the ultimate decider. Until then, I want to proceed with retaining as much functionality as I can, and only eliminate something whose duty is assumed by the Link, or one of the other devices I plan to run.

Well, it seems you are correct. My SuperPros have an OD of just over 54mm. The bushing also measured 29mm wide, whereas the boss pictured above is 32mm, but I imagine there's not much to be gleaned from that. Maybe it's time to look for some R34 GTT/GTR rear knuckles. Cheers for the input so far!

The car is an ENR34, so while not a GTR, does have the ATTESA system. In which case I may be working from the wrong wiring diagram, as the one I have has the wheel speed sensors going to the ABS/TCS control unit, and not ATTESA. Attached below. What all does ATTESA need to see from the engine? I missed the throttle position output, but it seems that's done through position 37 on the ECU connector. Easy enough in most instances, but I'll be going to a DBW throttle. Might be another question for the Link forum.

After looking at the R34 wiring diagrams and seeing that ABS and traction control are combined within the same control unit, I'm wondering what results people who have gone to a standalone have had. The OEM wiring that was originally sending enginer information to the TCS will no longer be doing so, and I'm fine with no TCS as I'll develop a separate strategy within the Link G4+ ECU. Just don't want to lose ABS as a result. Adam with Link suggests that I won't, and he definitely knows his way around standalone ECUs, but wanted to reach out to those in a community specific to these cars. Thanks for any help.

Sorry Dave, I didn't have alerts turned on! Glad you found the tapered seat. And yes, it's a standard part across multiple generations. Even the V36 Skyline (G35 sedan here in the US) I pulled a rear differential from used these at the rear knuckles. If it ain't broke, don't fix it, I suppose. And thanks for the pictures of the crush sleeve dimensions. I imagine the thickness of the aluminum surrounding that bushing on yours and mine are the same and that they each take the same bushings. I purchased some BNR34 SuperPros, but just haven't gotten around to installing them yet.