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JarrettL

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Everything posted by JarrettL

  1. I had the absurd idea of actually contacting the manufacturer through their "Contact Us" portion of their webpage and they insist that it's an M16x1.5 thread. I assume that once the o-ring on the bottom of the hex portion of the sensor its in that slight recess, combined with light torque would eliminate the play I'm feeling now. Anyway, just updating this in case anyone searches this topic at some point in the future.
  2. Disclaimer: This isn't a topic specifically related to forced induction, though the vehicle it applies to will be boosted, so... I recently purchased a Series II R34 GTR radiator from Koyorad to install in my ENR34 project. I'm building a motorsport-level (or near enough, anyway) harness for it, so the addition of a threaded boss on the radiator to use for a coolant pressure sensor was enticing. Especially since I was buying a radiator, anyway. I have a large M16x1.5 bolt that I've easily threaded into the hole, but it still has a little play at full engagement. Does anyone know what the true thread size of this hole is so that I can buy an adapter for a pressure sensor?
  3. Have you done this? Just seems like a big leap given that there's no going back. And the cutting isn't really what gets me, so much as the method of attachment once the foam is cut. I would seriously doubt it has the tabs in place, right?
  4. For starters, I'm not wanting to put an MFD in my dash to monitor my RB25DE. However, the cover is an intriguing concept for the housing to a front/rear camera display I'd like to install. The covers are still available from Amayama, it seems, and the power/video switching of my project is fairly straightforward. I have an ENR34, which came with the RB25DE. This means that the dash is solid, and does not have the removable insert the GT-R, GT-t, or GT-X have. Likewise, my dash would have to be cut in order to install the MFD cover. A search on this topic hasn't yielded any actual experience from those who seem to have done it, so would anyone here care to offer anything up? I can buy a GT-t dash here in the US, but with additional $500ish it would add to what's effectively a camera project, it's difficult to justify so far. Open to ideas.
  5. H4896-AB000 This is the part number I'm finding for the emblem "kit", which also comes with the two GT badges for the front fenders. It's listed twice on the accessories page, but no mention of color. https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/er34/3952-rb25det/misc/K90/KH4896/ Would definitely like one, myself. There's a black Z Tune bumper on Yahoo Japan auctions right now that has one. Maybe he'll remove it and sell separately for the right offer.
  6. Talked to a US retailer that had new OEM R34 GTT/GTR knuckles on hand and his caliper measurement (through plastic packaging) comes out to the same as the knuckles I have. So I guess I'm going to assume SuperPro rear lower shock mounts for an R34 GTT/GTR will fit these fine and allow me to run R34 coilovers all around.
  7. That's the first I've heard of the ball joint taper being different. And I'd like to pose a follow-up question, as the part numbers would seem to indicate a different story. On aluminum knuckles, all seem to use the same Nissan part number (40173-33P00), and that adapter/spacer/bush fits perfectly into the aluminum knuckle. Here are the compatible chassis for that taper from Amayama https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/4017333p00 Here is that taper bushing fitting into the knuckle that I have (which doesn't really prove anything about the inside taper size or pitch, I'll admit) And here are a few more to show the appearance and some dimensions of the Q45 rear upright. Shock Mounting Boss Bearing Bore Large Dimension Bearing Bore Smaller Dimension (Inner)
  8. Check out Ballanger Motorsports and use their identifier to figure out which one you have. Once you find the connector, look for an Aussie dealer that can sell it to you. https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/index.php/cPath/109?osCsid=qgr1gj5e6m5tp9m8k694361511
  9. How's it going, guys? First post here, but I've used this site countless times as a source of great information on this chassis. I've recently purchased an ENR34 25GT Four coupe and am awaiting transport for it to show up in person. As I wait, I've begun to assemble quite a few parts, including suspension bits. I'm wanting to change the rear knuckles to an alloy type that will accept the larger GTR-sized rear hubs to match the Z33 diff change. I'll preface the information below by saying that I've used Nissan EPC Data and Amayama's pages to determine as much backwards compatibility as I can. I purchased a pair of alloy rear knuckles from a '96 Infiniti Q45 (G50). It shares the part number with the Z32. In looking at photos, I can't find a difference between these and the R32 parts, or even the R33/R34 parts. I've read that the width of the rear lower shock mount is 40mm at the metal sleeve on the older ones vs. 50mm of the R33/R34 variants. Honestly, the R33/R34 rear lower shock mounts don't really seem any wider from the pictures. Can anyone lay out what the differences might be between the multiple allow knuckles? I'm guessing a HICAS vs. non-HICAS knuckle are going to have different numbers despite the various bushings or joints that are different being removable. In summary, what will prevent me from taking these Q45/Z32 rear alloy uprights and using them on my ENR34 with R34 GTR-style coilover bottoms? Thanks for the help! I'll upload pictures in a little while of the uprights I have, if that helps.
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