gadget1382

After a pair of STOCK R33 Rear springs and shocks - cheap. The shocks can be shagged, with boots torn to shreds, but they need to be straight, bolt holes not flogged out and top mounding studs not double threaded. I'm needing them to set subframe heights correctly and don't want coilovers. I'm located in Eastern Melbourne area and would rather pick up, but let me know. Thanks

I baught a half cut for a project of mine where I only needed the floor and inner skin. The panels are straight and would suit anyone that may have tapped a pole, tyre barrier or gotten a little too close proximity to another vehicle. $150ono - R33 Rear Qtr Panels - colour black, but if welding on would require a re-paint anyway. Parts are located in Croydon - Vic. Pick up required but happy to drop off if local. Will attach pics when I get home.

After A - LOT of Effing around!!! http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i305/gadget1382/VQ30det/Nissan%20Skyline%20Chassis%20Dimensions/R32dim_zpsde26471b.jpg http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i305/gadget1382/VQ30det/Nissan%20Skyline%20Chassis%20Dimensions/R33dim_zps07534267.jpg http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i305/gadget1382/VQ30det/Nissan%20Skyline%20Chassis%20Dimensions/R34dim_zps63991bf9.jpg Hope this helps people straighten out their cars! Mod's you may want to pin / save these... as they were a B*tch to get! Sorry haven't been able to find a non-pixelated R33 version, but you can still read 70% of the dimensions.

That just means there are less about. Bugger. Well Japanese mm are the same as English ones so hope I can still track it down.

As the topic says. I'm after the workshop body alignment part of the Manual for an R33. The section with the co-ordinates of hole's, bolts and suspension pins. The Workshop Manual's I keep finding (regardless of their huge size) lack that section and only have the electrics and motor sections. I need it to work out the correct geometry of the rear suspension. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Bugger, thanks anyway.

I'm after essentially the rear floor pan, subframe pickups, towers and and a bit of the inner wheel arch. Is that all there and straight?

Odd request... I'm after essentially the rear floor pan, subframe pickups, towers and and a bit of the inner wheel arch. Do you still have the remains of the shell?

What aspect of the car was damaged? I'm after essentially the rear floor pan, subframe pickups, towers and and a bit of the inner wheel arch.

Interested in Rims... what tyres are on them and what condition too?

Very interested in Fronts.... Hope someone wants the rears.

Willing to sell me the front calipers and rotors? Willing to pick up and pay cash this weekend.

Willing to sell interstate? With shipping covered of course.

I know a guy that recently got the APS 350Z TT kit.. i'll let him know.

Pulley's arent internal parts... they are what bolts to the front. But if not splitting that from the rest, thats fine.

Are they the reduction type or standard diameter? I assume they do not come with belts.

If willing to seperate i'd like to know how much you'd sell the Unorthodox Pulley set for. Sorry to hear the project couldnt see completion. Thanks.

^^ I might have to swing by Head office to look at the potential father in-law's next car then... I really should just get a diamond ring for the missus and then "borrow" the car for a couple of (track) days Really glad the release date is early next year rather than the year after. Would these places then be orthorised to then import V35GT-R components? For service / sales?

Needing offset. Thanks GL with the sale.

Are both the inlet and outlet on the same side? Offset (centre) or Offset (opposite sides)? Cheers

Sorry?! How is pulling apart an engine, buying components that are for a FI setup and re-assembling it adding a turbo, modded ecu, Intercooler etc easier than swapping an engine in with it's ECU and adding an intercooler? I know you said it would be a little more work. But things like Insurance and compliance would be more difficult with FI on an engine not designed for it?! So those positives over it are cut. Pulling apart an engine is no small mean feat.

Material costs have nothing to do with the end price. Eg: Do you really think that the cost to build an MX-5 is that much more than a Mazda 6 because it has a soft top? It's because it sells an image. It wouldnt suprise me if the Base Zed is a fair bit more than the Base V35... but when you start specking up... then you start paying for "luxury" "tax's" I dont know which would be more expencive, but it wouldnt suprise me the (lack of) "logic" of pricing scales for the two vehicles.

Providing there's enough clearance around the steering column and starter motor (they switch sides too) i dont see why any LHD TT kit would not fit a RHD of the same vehicle.

Welcome, you still get more decent cars for decent $$ though. I do know the fuel prices are a bit heftyier than ours is. Whats the average price now?

In terms of maintenance though, (i have a VQ30det) while the engine is already slightly apart, is there something (like a tensioner) that would be a good idea to check / tighten / lube while i have relative ease of accessing? All i need to remove (as far as i remember) is the cover as all the auxileries are already off the block.