Cheww

ayo so ive bought this Romac harmonic balancer and it only supports the alternator and power steering, not the ac compressor. but ive talked to the company who sold it to me and the balancer does have holes so that another pulley may be bolted on. Has anyone got a clue to who/where i could buy a pulley? in the work shop manual is says the power steering pulley bolts to the balancer but both of my cars (R31s) have the Psteering pulley made into it, is that the same with everyone elses ? would really appreciate a hand, not keen on losing my ac

Really appreciate that man that's exactly what I wanted to hear 🤙🤙🤙

Yeah i saw that one, it looks like the same one but doesnt have the same last number line, is that one on EFI ends with a V and mine ends with an M. U rekon it'll do the job anyway ?

Thanks for the reply man

So ive taken out this EFI relay from behind the ecu, it's faulty I gotta replace it, and with my luck the numbers are damn near unreadable, Ive found Nissan relays that were matched the first two lines (25230 -c9965) but not the last line (**612M), Electrics is not my forte, an I don't wana make any costly mistakes. So if anyone knows the numbers I'm looking for, where to buy it, or knows that any green relay with similar numbers is kicks I'd be extremely grateful If could share sum knowledge 🤙🤙🤙🤙

Yea I kinda thought that's what it was

Can some one tell me what these things are/what they do ? Would hugely appreciate🤙 That first thing has a vacuum line connected to the fuel regulator

yeah factory ecu. i dont have a ground on my extractors anymore surely it cant be that, so what do you recommend? checking for voltage on the ground wires? not too familiar with electrical side of things but down to do my homework on it

yeah i replaced that too, i think it actually does misfire a lot less or not at all when unplugged. ive forgot, tested that one a while ago

ight so ive been in a pickle for while but i think im closer to pin pointing it, but i need help. so a while back i started getting this warm engine misfiring, where once the engine reached running temp it would like cough, puff and basically shit the bed with shit response until it was undrivable, however the symptoms were far less noticeable when given a decent amount of open throttle and high revs funny enuff. (and when it was cold) - since it shat the bed ive taken out the plugs twice, first time it smelt like fuel then the second time a month after the ends where white and crispy (got pics) probably worth noting the car wasn't seeing a whole lot of action the 2nd time the plugs were removed. - ive found fuel in the intake manifold gasket when i took it off, and worth noting the inside of the plenum/mainifold was filthy AS HELL with a layer of oil/grease/37year old filth lining it. - when i took off the rocker cover the shit is filthy as hell, good layer of grime on every thing, but the grim gets blacker the closer it gets to cylinder 6th, apart from needing an oil flush (dont think the last owner did one, after resurrecting it from a 10year sleep) it looks all good ish. i remember seeing a black spec on a cam lobe but it looked like it was ment to be there, but ive never seen a warn down cam so idk really. ran a compression test and it pulled through great, all cylinder with 5% difference between each of each other things ive replaced/checked: - replaced AFM, ECU, leads, plugs and refurbished the distributor/CAS/ignition coil - had the Throttle position sensor checked, injectors cleaned did a fuel pressure test with my hand on the fuel lines and that seemed fine, cant rule this one out for certain tho - gonna change the some of the connection to the dizzy, afm, and maybe injectors, but i dont think its electrical due to the nature of it only happing when the engines warm. ight so ive got a little hypothesis based on some research ive been doing so in regard to this being based around the fact it misfires when its warm im thinking about blaming it on poor valve timing. Because from what i understand with an engine that require lash adjustment (rb30 doesnt i know) that a lower lash increases valve lift and duration, good for high end power at the sacrifice of low end torque. I also understand that the lash/gap is indented to compensate for metal expansion under heat. I know im going out on a limb but IF the hydraulic lifters 'seized up' and stared to act as a solid lifter with zero lash the symptoms would most prominent when warm, and with zero lash the open valve duration may be pushed to an extreme (opening to early and closing too late) MAYBE IF the intake valves closed late enuff they might still be partly open at the beginning of the compression stroke forcing puffs of air up the intake, bringing filth, oil and drying the spark plugs up. ( i know some of this seems far fetched(especially the second half), but ive replaced too many things), guess im just asking if theres someone with a bigger brain to correct me or give me some direction with this cheers boys

sorry to waste your time man..... i just forgot the 3 earths at the back

ight so my cars been f**kin me around bad lately, like it starts misfiring once its warm and even more so on low revs, however its way better on high revs (if i drive like an arse hole) Anyhow in an attempt to fix this shit ive cleaned up my injectors and fuel rail (so theres 0 fuel in the pipes past the filter), so I plugged everything up and when i turn the key i dont hear the fuel pump prime, i crank it a fair few times pumping the pedal and I get nothing. im thinking about unplugging the return fuel line from the fuel rail to kinda bleed the the system of air, would that work??? .....or does this sound like a fuel pump issue as its not even priming PS ive already changed dizzy, AFM, ecu, checked TPS, new sparks, 95% sure the last owner changed leads, just in case your wondering if its that. also sorry for my poor English

Oh I knowwww feeling very blessed, it had enough force to knock off the review mirror off some how tho.

I was gonna go with a zip tie approach (instead of a the bolt) but you can't be too safe can you.

Yeah shit this does kinda help to see that cheers for that, yeeeee I see what your talking about not having clearance with a bolt, but I do not have a clue how I would install a 12mm rivet hmmm, starting to sound like a might need a shit tone of zip ties to get it home

Yea sure did, 500m from the mechanic as well 😑😑. Is their a reason you believe 12mm is the one or just instinct.

Yeah it's part of it (the part attached to the bonnet not the car).. wish I was more familiar with the hinge and surrounding but it's been in the mechanic for a month. The hole (which is oval) is ruffly 12mm X 16mm. But I'm not sure if it's supposed to be like that, or if it's supposed to be circle

hahha sheeet yea sorry its an R31 mate

Yeah ight sorry for the horribly described title but I'm looking for the actual size of this hole (mainly the bolt that goes threw it) on one of the braces on the bonnet, cas once i weld it, itll be a bitch to fix it. Would HELLA appreciate it if someone could gemmi a hand as I'm pricking up the car Tomo, and need the new brace to fit on it so I can drive it home

only need the tail light middle trim at the moment, do you have a number or messenger at all

pre delicious, what's that even called i couldn't on their site

yeah i think the water pump has been renewed when the last owner had it, but the other two could prolly do, ill google to see how much works involved and what not cas im kinda leaving in less than 2 weeks. you know of any good after market fuel pumps? or should i stick to oem

ye ye might just do that man, cheers

might just cas some of my hoses are a bit crusty

aha yeah ill think about it