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Everything posted by tehmessiah
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2003 VQ35DE replacement injectors.
tehmessiah replied to tehmessiah's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
Well it’s An all day event to switch out the injectors on the V35. looks like I need to give you the whole story. Get comfortable. I bought the car off a work colleague who has bad knees and nearly wrote the car off while at the lights cause his knee gave way. I’m in Darwin and the humidity is a car killer in so many factions it’s not funny. since his knee gave way he parked the car and tried to sell it for 2 years at a rediculous price. He only put 1/4 tank with fuel saver in it. I bought it for 4K after it sat for the 2 years not realising how bad it was. I shouldn’t have bought it. The tank was rusted the fuel pump was ruined. The other fuel level sensor was also buggered. The clutch slave piston was also ruined (probably why he had so many issues with his weak knees). The battery died and he never ran it for the whole time it was parked in his carport for 2 years. The drivers window also doesn’t work. Ive replaced the tank, fuel pump, fuel level sensor, spark plugs and the clutch slave piston. I placed an inline fuel filter as extra protect. I drove it to work for a week and it ran fine until Friday when it had no throttle response. I had auto electricians look at it and read the ecu and test it and they said it was a faulty ecu. I sent the ecu to Injectronics who said it was dead and sent me a replacement for $1300 (ecu, key sensor and key electronics and bcu). After I reinstalled the new ecu ect I still had no accelerator response. I spoke to a car guy at work and he recommended the only auto electrician he would use in Darwin. He said he flys guys up from Victorian to work on his cars because all of them up here are terrible. Anyway I explained what was wrong and he came to my house and the first thing he did was go straight for the accelerator pedal and replaced a rubber stop that holds the pedal at the correct spot and all of a sudden the accelerator worked again. Downside I had a check engine light and when he read the ecu it said there was a misfire on cylinder 2. He swapped the coil packs from 1 & 2 and it still had the same error on No2. Injectronics sent me the wiring diagram so I could check continuity from the ecu to the coil packs and it was 100% good. I checked the signal while the engine was running and the coil trigger signal was being sent as well as 12v + and earth. So I figured the 2 year old fuel that was still in the lines has seized the No2 injector open (no2 spark plug is wet) and it’s too rich for the spark to ignite it. Therefore the injector needs replacing. unless someone has a better idea of what it is that’s causing the misfire. I figured let’s replace all the injectors with reliable good ones and if that’s doesn’t fix it replace all the coil packs to make sure. -
2003 VQ35DE replacement injectors.
tehmessiah replied to tehmessiah's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
It’s a long story but I have a misfire on cylinder 2 and it’s not the coil pack or plugs which I’ve replaced. yes ex-Japan OEM is expensive so I’m looking for a reliable alternative that is easier to source. -
Hi all, I need to replace the injectors on my V35 350gt skyline. Can anyone recommend a reliable replacement? The vehicles stock.
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V35 electrical engine issues
tehmessiah replied to tehmessiah's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
Thanks Paul. I have a 2nd hand part coming from an Adelaide Wreckers Nisswreck for $195 plus postage. I already took the old one off to test it so I’m fine doing my own mechanics servicing. Just parts are the problem. The mechanic who checked it said he would clear the codes for me too if I can’t. -
V35 electrical engine issues
tehmessiah replied to tehmessiah's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
Well the Prices are from Nissan for the parts and I use Jesse Streeter to get them a little cheaper and the labour costs are normal for Darwin. When I needed a part for my Yamaha R1 the dealer up here quoted me $1k for it and I ordered it from Adelaide and got it for $500 inc postage. In Darwin we call this Darwin Tax. Not enough local competition to keep prices down. Where do you all get your parts from? I got for a mechanic to read the codes and confirmed it’s the throttle body. Met a great guy and only cost me a 6 pack of Corona 😁 -
V35 electrical engine issues
tehmessiah replied to tehmessiah's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
Finding someone with a computer that can read it properly is the next issue though as it’s so early odb2 that no one seems to get accurate answers or codes. Any suggestions on that problem too? -
Hi, I have 2003 Anniversary edition v35 350GT skyline that I bought off a friend cheap (but not cheap enough I now discover). He had to stop driving it because of his knee and he couldn't use the clutch. He put fuel stabilizer in it but only 1/4 filled the tank and then left it sitting for 2 years and never ran it. He knows nothing about cars btw. I discovered the clutch slave piston was full of water and explains the heavy clutch, so I replaced that and flushed and bled it and its now good. I had to replace the drive belts as they were worn and cracked. I had to replace the Tank, fuel pump and fuel level sender as the tank was rusted beyond repair. Everything above the 1/4 of petrol corroded and everything in the fuel was gummed up with this black crap that I can only guess is a combination of off fuel and a high concentration of fuel stabilizer. And to top it off less than a year before he stopped driving it he had already taken it to the Nissan dealers here in Darwin and they also replaced the fuels tank. They of course apparently replaced it with a genuine one from Nissan although knowing the history of this dealership it could have been second hand. Now to replace the tank you literally have to remove the rear suspension, exhaust, prop shaft and bumper bar as well as the back seat and boot lining. Now when Nissan dealer did this and had to wait for months for the tank to arrive on a slow boat from Japan, they put all the parts they took off and placed them on a pallet in their warehouse. A month or 2 later some clown decided to do a cleanup of the warehouse and disposed of all the stored parts (I can only assume) because some clown didn't label them properly. So everything was thrown away including the rare white leather rear seats. When the tank finally arrived they call me friend and asked him to bring in the car to which there was a long argument about them losing the parts and him ending up getting a free fix on his car. So that the brief overview of its life so far and now I am fixing all the mess that is left from him not taking care of. So After I replaced the tank, fuel pump, level sender, Clutch slave, belts etc. I took the car for a test run around the block and OMG it was perfect. I was in heaven, until... I drove it to work for 3 days last week and had to tow it home on Friday because the accelerator wasn't responding. The engine was idling at about 1200rpm and the engine and traction control light was on. Luckily because its got enough horses under the hood I was able to drive it out of the underground car park quite easily up the steep ramps. So what could it be. I did some research and found it is likely either the accelerator pedal assembly or the throttle body, however there are a few other weird things going on that make me suspicious it might be something electrical. The drivers side park light has blown (could be coincidence since globes do blow) When you turn the head lights on and when you flick from low to high bean there is a delay of half a second (guessing) between the passenger side light and the drivers side light coming on and changing from high to low. The drivers side is the delayed one. The drivers side window winder intermittently wont work. (This was another know issue with the car when I bought it and I had fixed it by cleaning the brushes and contacts on the electric motor as they were clogged with graphite from the brushes and it worked fine for a long time until the last few months) The middle rear window brake light stopped working. I had to fix this to get it past inspection when I first got it working 12 months ago but now it has stopped again. So I read that when testing the Throttle body, when you first turn the ignition to on but don't start it, the car does a prestart check and the butterfly valve in the throttle is meant to open and close as part of this precheck. With the help of my neighbor we discovered that it doesn't move at all. Is that correct info?With all the above information can anyone with good mechanical knowledge point me to where I should look. With the bad reputation of our local Nissan dealer I am definitely not going to them. A new throttle body is $1280AU and the accelerator pedal assembly is about $350 not including postage from Japan and any local mechanic with the proper tools charges about $150-$200 an hour in Darwin and I know electrical issues are difficult to find.
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According to the tow truck driver it’s a common issue with Nissans.
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Hi, I too have a similar issue except I have no mods. I drove the car to work this morning with no issues and when I went to leave just now the car idles but I have no accelerator. The check engine light and VCD are on. Turned it on and off, locked it and unlocked it but nothing fixed it. For a while now the drivers window won’t go down and some times the vcd light stays on but it usually goes away. Any help would be appreciated please?
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Car dies randomly while driving
tehmessiah replied to tehmessiah's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
I have an odb scanner but it won’t read it. Apparently it’s an early odb system which doesn’t give much information. 2003/4 model Edit: The check engine light hasn’t come on but sometime the traction control light won’t go off if I take off to quick. -
Hi, i have a 350gt and I can drive for 30-40 minutes without a problem. After some time off I try to accelerate too fast the drive by wire dies, all the speedo drops to 0, the accelerator does nothing but the car idles. If I put my foot on the clutch and just roll, it come back to life, but I can’t accelerate past 3k rpm or it does it again. i bought the car after it has been sitting Undriven for 2 years. I’ve replaced the fuel pump. Any ideas what could cause this?