tidi0x

Bumping this up one last time.... I wanted to follow up on the clutch slave issue. I realized that what the issue comes down to is the pocket is flat milled, and the cylinder does not want rest flat. So in order to mount it correctly you will need to make a spacer for the fingers so the cylinder is floating. I took two plates of aluminum, drilled some holes and was good. I did still need to make the relief cuts in the bell housing, as even with the spacer the bleed section still interferes. The OE bell housing the mounting holes are raised from the housing.

Yes, I've been thinking about how to fabricate something. Either how OP did it with an alloy sheet or more complicated. Because of the CD shifter protrusion I think I will need to build a raised aluminum box to clear, then I would reutilize the same OE seal just shifted back. When I went on my test drive I popped open the EWG and exhaust just filled the cabin, so it will need to be closed up.

Shifter images as promised.

Follow up to my last update…. I was wrong about the clutch setup. Mazworx was right, dimensionally everything is the same. I probably did not have the bell housing all the way tight, or because the slave was not in the milled pocket all the way it was not functioning right. I went ahead and refitted the trans and everything is good 👍. That being said the clutch slave pocket not being milled out caused a headache for me. I need to cut away material from it to fit the slave in correctly, and even when I thought it was flush it was not and I cracked the iron bolt holes. I have a new nismo one sitting ready to go in so nbd, but it’s a miss I’m surprised they didn’t check. either way the clutch setup is good now, and functions well. I was able to drive the car, first off the shifter feels great, it’s super tight and precise compared to the 5 speed. I went with the serial nine cd999 shifter since it had the shallowest mounting; I was considering the gktech, but it looked a touch longer. (I don’t have any photos atm of the hole I had to cut I’ll add those tonight.) the only other driveline issue I had was with the driveshaft being so big it was clicking on the parking brake cable tabs, so those will need to be either bent or replaced to make work. otherwise my swap is done. In the end for my swap I used… - brand new cd009 (used the clutch fork, pivot ball, and TOB) - Mazworx VQRB bell housing kit - kept my old twin disk clutch - Driftmotion 1350 driveshaft (if your not over 600whp you can probably run a 1310 yoke setup) - Serial nine cd999 shifter - home made transmission mount. it’s fairly straightforward to do this swap, if I was doing this, I would do this route again. The bell housing allows for lots of clearance to get the transmission in; I don’t need to take it to a machine shop. Hope this helps others in the future, and I hope the cd can really handle the 1k hp like people say it can.

Update... After my last update there was two issues I ran into. The first was the driveshaft, mainly that I wanted a 1350 joint on both ends as I am making ~700+whp... Spicer makes a 1350 yoke out of the CD, but looking everywhere all I could find was 1310's for the rear diff face yoke for the R200 (Mine happens to be a z32 swap). Until I found Driftmotion out of CA makes billet R200 flange yokes, I reached out to them to verify if they offered an Old style R200 not the 350z style, and Arron said they had a few in both styles. Anyways Arron over there is awesome, so I gave him my measurements and a week or so later I got my new driveshaft. The fit up is solid, however I did need to remove the cup on the back of my CD as the shaft yoke was too wide to fit in the cup. The driveshaft is sorted and will handle everything I throw at it. I also tig'd up a mild steel trans mount. I used an energy suspension T56 trans mount as they work for the CD, it's universal so cheaper and easier to find. I made a decent mount, I am absolutely not a fabricator but It will work. I intend on replacing It at some point with something I model in CAD and send to send cut send. When I built it I used some trig to get the operating angles right since I did not have a driveshaft at the time. I left myself some gap to shim the trans up with plates to get it dialed in. The only thing that bugs me is I went a touch too narrow on the cross bar, but it supports and functions well. However my current and persisting issue is with the clutch. The first pass of "Final" install on the trans I reused the pivot ball and fork from the CD as the setup was identical to what I was running on my RB big box. However once it was installed it was clear I did not get the full travel only half. I thought it could be that I am running the transmission plate or the fact there is really 2 pivot ball sizes 41mm and 54mm. Mazworx was not super helpful and said "the bell housing was dimensionally the same an OEM one", and that I need to "use an RB26 push config" which is technically what I was using. So I ordered the 54mm pivot ball incase that is correct, Tonight I swapped it in and it also does not seem correct. I am going to spend some time researching, because I hope they don't mean I also need to run the stamped steel RB26 fork, and I want to avoid purchasing the $500 tilton kit. Either way this is where I am currently stuck... One other note about the Mazworx housing, the clutch slave provision does not fit either, so I will need to clearance material to make it sit flush with the mounting face. Side note, I am using a RB25 Spec twin disk clutch, It worked great on my previous box, their kit is the same for GTS-T and GTR so I don't think the clutch is the problem.

lol, I’ll get right on that. 👍. In all seriousness, yeah probably the only way forward.

With my CD swap I am going carbon driveshaft; I want my driveline as sturdy as possible; however one thing that keeps bugging me is the rear diff flange limitations of a 1310 yoke. I have seen and adapter for the 350z R200 that lets you run a 1350 yoke. However to the best of my research abilities the 350z R200 pinions are most likely incompatible with S/R/Z32 R200 diffs. Am I wrong? are there other options?

I made more progress today. I followed the Mazworx instructions for the SR trans, Marked a line 1/4in in from the second rib on the housing; that cut went well using a sawzall and a grinder. However I want to note, the bottom two bolts are very close to the bell housing, I accidentally cut a bit into the aluminum there; should be fine, but I overlooked it, its easy to f**k that up. After that I circumsized the input shaft 3/8in and beveled it; then assembled the housing on to the trans. That part was easy, just need to RTV the bottom 4 bolts, and use the two Allen bolts of the bottom. One thing I noticed about the bell housing bolts that were included, there is 4, and one is longer than the others. I am not 100% where each needs to go atm. As for the clutch fork and TOB; the new one with the CD is near identical to my old one for the Skyline so I plan to use the new CD kit. As for how the trans in... It was fairly easy. I was able to get it to sit in at a 1* angle; there is no clearancing issues from the bell housing or the top, The only area that is a problem is the mid plate. On the passengers side the mid plate bolts are hitting the trans mount; this is the only interference, I might be able to shift towards the drivers side, or smooth down the trans, or bash the mount a touch. Either way the fitment looks good and I'm fairly happy for now; ill play with it during the week. I also measured from the face of the output shaft area to the diff at ~57 1/4" or 145.5 cm (not a final measurement). I am debating my DS options. Pics attached

I am currently in the process of CD swapping my R33 (I cooked a band new R34 GTT box). I was hesitant to attempt it and looked for alternatives (8hp, T56, dogbox stock box) until I saw Mazworxs released the RBVQ bell housing adapter, which will let me run my twin-disk, and I assume better overall clearance. Anyways I am in the middle of swapping it in; I wanted to share pics of the clearance if anyone else is looking to the Mazworxs adapter. at 0* engine angle (pink socket) I see about 14mm of clearance, and at 3* (red socket) I see 20mm of clearance. I'll be chopping my CD tomorrow and attempting to set it in more permanently, then move onto mounts. Pics attached.

Thanks guys, I'll be sure to use the link and the rb25 base map and change the capacity for first start.

I am currently building my S2 25det from my R33 with a 26 crank, nitto I beams, and 26 CP pistons. I have a G4x PNP which I intend on using with a brand new loom from wiring specialties with r35 coils. However when it comes time to do first start since pulled the car down from bone stock I want to drop the built engine in the car as stock for first start because I know those parts WORK and I do not have to diagnose anything with new ecu, loom, turbo, intake etc.... I have no issue running the G4x on first start, but I do not know which base map to use be it the 25 or the 26 map, so my second option (And somewhat preferred) is the stock ecu, but I am concerned because the stroke is longer technically the ignition would be slightly retarted and I do not want to risk knock or detonation; Obviously I do not intend to beat on it, but I want to put light driving load accel and decel on the car to set the rings. After first start and drive, I will tear it down and run my turbo, intake mani, G4X and take it to my tuner to get the tune. Am I safe to run stock ecu for first run and drive? Also can someone please validate that for a 25 with 26 internals I need to run 26 Main bearings.... I have found two threads that talk about it with no SOLID answer.