[1350 Rear diff flange options]

lol, I’ll get right on that. 👍. 
 

In all seriousness, yeah probably the only way forward. 

[1350 Rear diff flange options]

With my CD swap I am going carbon driveshaft; I want my driveline as sturdy as possible; however one thing that keeps bugging me is the rear diff flange limitations of a 1310 yoke. I have seen and adapter for the 350z R200 that lets you run a 1350 yoke. However to the best of my research abilities the 350z R200 pinions are most likely incompatible with S/R/Z32 R200 diffs. Am I wrong? are there other options? 

[CD009 RB Conversion]

I made more progress today. I followed the Mazworx instructions for the SR trans, Marked a line 1/4in in from the second rib on the housing; that cut went well using a sawzall and a grinder. However I want to note, the bottom two bolts are very close to the bell housing, I accidentally cut a bit into the aluminum there; should be fine, but I overlooked it, its easy to f**k that up. After that I circumsized the input shaft 3/8in and beveled it; then assembled the housing on to the trans. That part was easy, just need to RTV the bottom 4 bolts, and use the two Allen bolts of the bottom. One thing I noticed about the bell housing bolts that were included, there is 4, and one is longer than the others. I am not 100% where each needs to go atm. 

As for the clutch fork and TOB; the new one with the CD is near identical to my old one for the Skyline so I plan to use the new CD kit. 

As for how the trans in... It was fairly easy. I was able to get it to sit in at a 1* angle; there is no clearancing issues from the bell housing or the top, The only area that is a problem is the mid plate. On the passengers side the mid plate bolts are hitting the trans mount; this is the only interference, I might be able to shift towards the drivers side, or smooth down the trans, or bash the mount a touch. Either way the fitment looks good and I'm fairly happy for now; ill play with it during the week.

I also measured from the face of the output shaft area to the diff at ~57 1/4" or 145.5 cm (not a final measurement). I am debating my DS options. 

Pics attached 

[CD009 RB Conversion]

I am currently in the process of CD swapping my R33 (I cooked a band new R34 GTT box). I was hesitant to attempt it and looked for alternatives (8hp, T56, dogbox stock box) until I saw Mazworxs released the RBVQ bell housing adapter, which will let me run my twin-disk, and I assume better overall clearance. Anyways I am in the middle of swapping it in; I wanted to share pics of the clearance if anyone else is looking to the Mazworxs adapter.

at 0* engine angle (pink socket) I see about 14mm of clearance, and at 3* (red socket) I see 20mm of clearance. I'll be chopping my CD tomorrow and attempting to set it in more permanently, then move onto mounts. 

Pics attached. 

[rb25det with 26 internals first start mapping]

Thanks guys, I'll be sure to use the link and the rb25 base map and change the capacity for first start. 

[rb25det with 26 internals first start mapping]

I am currently building my S2 25det from my R33 with a 26 crank, nitto I beams, and 26 CP pistons. 

I have a G4x PNP which I intend on using with a brand new loom from wiring specialties with r35 coils. However when it comes time to do first start since pulled the car down from bone stock I want to drop the built engine in the car as stock for first start because I know those parts WORK and I do not have to diagnose anything with new ecu, loom, turbo, intake etc.... 

I have no issue running the G4x on first start, but I do not know which base map to use be it the 25 or the 26 map, so my second option (And somewhat preferred) is the stock ecu, but I am concerned because the stroke is longer technically the ignition would be slightly retarted and I do not want to risk knock or detonation; Obviously I do not intend to beat on it, but I want to put light driving load accel and decel on the car to set the rings. After first start and drive, I will tear it down and run my turbo, intake mani, G4X and take it to my tuner to get the tune.  

Am I safe to run stock ecu for first run and drive?

Also can someone please validate that for a 25 with 26 internals I need to run 26 Main bearings.... I have found two threads that talk about it with no SOLID answer.