HYBRID VL

Ok im looking to upgrade the guts of mt RB25 T03 or somthing i dont to go and get a huge new turbo that needs a new manifold and exhaust dump and so on just somthing that will give me more power and be decent so is there somthing i can do to the guts of the standard T03 or change a rear or front cover or blades or shafts or somthing at all.

It said in the write up he had done away with the VCT as with aftermarket RB26 cams it makes no different.

it was in a Black 260z had an RB25/30 in it but the head has RB26 internals which im guessing solid lifters am i correct?

Reading an article the other day in Zoom i think it was a guy had an RB30/26 setup which i well known to everyone as is the head/block combos but after reading his setup infact he has a RB30 with a RB25 head with RB26 internals in the head now i wasnt sure if this was exactly possible i have heard of people saying "my RB25 head is RB26 spec or better" but not RB26 internals and if so how many other parts and internal parts are swappable? I did search for this maybe just wasnt using the right words if there was somthin on it.

Ok took my R33 for rego yesterday (NSW) had to go to a different mechanic as my regular one was on holidays so i have never had trouble with geting a pink slip for my R33 but this guy checked my lights and said no cant pass it i was shocked and asked why what is the problem? and he showed me that when i switched my headlighst on all is good ut as soon as i swtich to highbeams my heads turn off and only high beams are on when highbeams are released the headlighst are back on. Now he told me this is how they are in japan but is illegal and gaainst saftey standards in Australia. he also knocked me on my Nismo 3 inch cat back exhaust even though its a option from nissan when u buy the car. is this guy pulling my leg or is this totally true and how do i go about fixing it.

Ok when i start my car its all good i let it warm up and then i take off but the gear changing from 1st to 2nd and then to 3rd just isnt smooth i doubt the gbox is stuffed but its really stiff from 1st to 2nd and 3rd and also sometimes crunchies a lil from 1st to 2nd im thinking my fluid hasnt been changed and want to try that before anything else. what fluid should i use which is good?

Ok whenever im on idle like stopped at a drive thru or lights or when i parked and switch off and the turbo timer is running my revs seem to bounce between 500-1000 rpm for no reason any ideas. My R33 has no mods apart from nismo 3inch cat back and pod filter. its very anoying as even the headlights dim then bright and people look at me when im at lights or drivethru saying what a wanker reving his car like a hard flamin mongrel some guy had a go tonight and i had to explain to him to save my life some poeple aye. any help at all will help.

Ok my brother has an AE86 that has a 20V Blacktop and a Stinger ECU which for some reason when he turns the car off it seems to lose the MAP off the ECU he has reloaded it and used his car and it works fine then maybe 1 - 4 turn offs and on its perfect then maybe 5 or 6 it wipes the map and the car runs like a dog until he reloads his map from the lappy. Im thinking either Faulty ECU or a wire isnt connected right. anyone had a prob like this at all.

ok so how do i teste these batteries wth a multimeter i have 2 batteries tried both same thing but the 2nd battery i dont think is the best either im just not sure so how do i test them.

yer just didnt wanan spend out $140 for a battery if its a $5 relay but looks like thats what it is. try get a new battery this week and then if problem still happening ill be back on here lol. thanks dudes

Ok i have left my car for a few months not needing to drive anywhere and not needing it for work so after around 4 months of sitting doing nothing its a no brainer the battery would be flat as a tack so i charged my battery up for about 26hours or more out of the car and then put the battery back in all accessories are working reds and all but as i turn the key i get a very rapid click click clicking and no start not even a crank. Now im thinking maybe a relay or the battery is just stuffed what are your thoughts?

So that bit u need 2 trim just unbolts duz it? that looks real neat nice.

Ok looks like i will be getting the blitz CS then guys i like the look and being blitz im guessing it can handle some ok numbers so loosk liek im heading that way.

Ok no this is what i meant...IF i have to cut a huge chunk out of the Front REO then cutting 1 more hole isnt going to make a difference to RTA/Police is it. I think a cooler pipe out each side of the cooler looks so much nicer. The Blitz 1 uses the standard pipes which is great and will work if i only got to trim the bar slighty then np ill go blitz. The XR6 cooler dunno how good they are my mate installed 1 in his TX3 but im sure they have a fair bit of PSI drop but that was the 1st style FMIC from the 1st XR6 Turbo. and PWR coolers well i have heard nothing but good things about those coolers my mates RX3 has 1 its got over 400rwkw and his is a huge FMIC. the blitz cooler has won my heart i will be buying one when funds let me BUT... just wondering in the pics of the cooler the pipes are really shiney but in the pic of your R33 they dont look that shiney any reason?do they come shiney like that?

Ok well when i said about getting a good cooler that requires no holes cut yer i rather cut a hole then the reo thats for sure so now im probley gunna be stuck in a sitituation where if u want a front mount u cut the reo unless u want a ugly looking front mount. hmmmm so where to go now if im going to have to cut reo i might aswell get a front mount that has pipes both sides.

That actully looks better then i thought it would thanks for those pics what type of power do these handle?

Thats pretty damn nice mate that air filter loosk the part aye its like its made 2 fit there stock lol

yer same i like the idea of this front mount and price aslong as i can have the front mount in clear view and hide all piping im happy i think it looks best with pipes coming out ether side then both pipes out 1 side. BUT..if i want a cooler that requires no mods to my car to fit then thats what i will have to settle with. ANY 1 with pics at all...?

thats blitz CS Intercooler loosk the works has anyone got any pics of R33's that have that cooler on them just so i see how it looks from the outside.

been looking around on ebay and so on for a good front mount kit with piping and cooler for my R33 i want one that i do not have to cut any holes to make it fit. Is there anyone on here who can steer me into the right direction thank u.

ust wondering how many litres in oil these engines hold is it the same as RB30. i wanna do an oil change to last me abit till i get the cash for the 100,000km service which i been quoted $1500.

Thankz heaps mate ill print that for sure hmmm must have been engine control fuse that blew cant see a fuel pump fuse or anything like that.

i have heard nothing but good things about the 1JZGTE engine makes same amount of KW at the engine as a RB25 206kw if i am correct or 208kw. A remember Rigoli had an R32 running a 7MGTE 6cylinder turbo and i think it was doing 9's reason they put it in was the engine was laying around and the R32 didnt have an engine in it. I have also seen a 1JZ in a S13 Silvia and for same price of a 1JZ u can only buy a Rb20 thats on price comparisson i also have been told that a 1JZ head out flows a RB25 head also been told a 2JZ head will fit with AM pistons. mate if you have the funds go for it check out how weights of the 1JZ engine compared to the RB25 aswell id like to know what differences there is im guessing you would run an R154 5speed box as i think a getrag would be a fair bit of moding to fit.

PROBLEM SOLVED.......... Took fuel hose off from the fuel filter NO FUEL after cranking so i was guessing fuel pump or a fuse more likely FUSE as if pump was stuffed you still might get a lil fuel thru but in my case there was NONE i also noticed on RED's there was no PRIMING of the pump aswell. owning the R33 for just a month i had to look for the fuses i ended up finding fuses under drivers side dash opened it up looked at diagram and it was all in Jap (TRANSLATION ANYONE) so i went thru every fuse until i came across a blown 1 and i did a 10 AMP fuse on the right row at the top i think 3rd from the top. Put a New 10 AMp fuse it and voila she started. I think when i did the Solenoid Full boost trick i might have touched the plus wire and i think thats how its blown the fuse. Thankz guys

Ok well if its a fuse what fuse would it be and where would i find it and ECU well i havnet had any problems with it at all and all of a sudden this. So i dunno if its ECU related. Could putting that wire on the boost solinoid have stuffed it as i only did the black wire and earthed it as it says in the DIY section.