John Stafford

Thanks but sold the car

👍

Got it. Thanks

All good info. thanks. I was wondering if the change to something higher in the HID range would be good. How many lumens are these stock? Cheers

Good to know

Thanks for the info. That’s a help. Cheers John

I think I have to pull the bulb and it is an Exon. Just wondering if LEDs can go in here and if they are any improvement?

Bulb change. Can I ask what kind of bulbs go in the headlights are the 2009 Skyline v36? Are they Exxon HIDs with a balanced or just ordinary bulbs?

It would be possible to put a towbar on the skyline if you remove the rear muffler, and to keep the increased noise under control, put a resonator on each side, as part of a new pipe to the rear, making room for a purpose-built Towbar. Just a thought if you really want to keep the skyline. Cheers John

Cruzy, not crazy

You will probably miss the car when you sell it. They’re pretty nice. What will you replace it with? I have a golf R as well, an amazing car. skyline is just a little more crazy.

Hi Julie, you have the same car as me and I am thrilled with my choice. I also saw that New Zealand partial conversion but in my opinion this is a much better way to go, so good. I have done a complete right up, posted under a different heading on this forum. I have re-written and corrected it more accurately and more completely and have it as a word document, Which I can send you if you like. As long as you are reasonably handy you will be able to follow all my instructions, combined with pictures from Simon who sells the units from Estonia Cheers John

I have just taken time to read up on the ATTESA E-TS Pro setup and I now know why the GTRs cost so much. This is a unique system. Great, now I know it is definitely out of my league. cheer John

It’s not the power is that can be provided with a turbo/supercharger but rather towards the handling of the GTR. Cheers John

Thanks, just wondering if anyone had done a conversion but looks out of scope. Cheers John

Has anyone ever converted the 370GT to Four-wheel-drive? I guess if anyone has ever done it to a 370 Z it would be possible in this car? Is it possible to put the cross over system on one of these cars?

You are a genius. Thanks heaps I finally got it. Cheers John

Hi, with reference to step number two: The light does not Turn off for more than a milli second and so I cannot kill the ignition fast enough before it comes back. turn off for more than a milli second and so I cannot kill the ignition fast enough before it comes back but I am killing it as soon as I can. With subsequent Steps and the light blinking three times it does not actually turn off after that so I am killing the ignition on the third flash. Is this correct?

Yes, that is the light, a picture of the front of a car with the bonnet up. My car is a 2008 skyline 370GT. I have checked the fuses in fuse box by the accelerator, all good there. I have checked out the fuses in the little easily accessible fuse box in front of the battery but i haven't gone into the big fuse box under the trim pierces next to the battery. That is my next port of call tomorrow. What do you mean by the bonnet pop up component of the SRS. If it is then how do I test that and how do I fix it? Thanks John

Hi, I did a wrong hook up of my head unit and since then, even though I have fixed the wiring of the head unit, the open bonnet warning light is still on. I have done an engine light scan and tried to remove this light but no success. I have also disconnected my battery for 20 minutes and then when that did not work I left the battery disconnected overnight but the light is still on when I drive off. It does flicker a little at the start but stays on. Can anyone offer an answer? Thanks John

Hi, Some more explanation for step #9. When I hooked my new head unit up I neglected to see that there was a female tale on the harness that is provided with the new head unit. The smaller white male plug that was hard to get out of the top right hand side area of the old head unit must plug into this. That white plug that was on the far right of the main harness was just left over and I hadn't plugged it in anywhere. It is next to one of the larger factory mail plugs that goes to the top row of the head unit. I had a few problems when I had it all hooked up, the main one being that the pointer on the maps did not follow me along the road. There were 2 reasons for this: Reason #1. I had not found where to reset my starting point on the menu. You have to set this up in order to be on the right map, in order to start your journey. Click settings and you will see the word "navigation" come up along with a number of other options, including one called "other". Do not click on that "other", just click on the word "navigation" and then scroll until you find another word "other", click on that. Scroll until you find "Alter your current location". Once you do this and enter it. Your maps will go to where you are now. Mine was set for Canberra when I got it. Then you can click on "Dest" (destination) and set up where you want to go. You can do that by clicking on the screen and then moving the circle that appears to where you want to go, by using the up and down arrows on the keypad. Enter that in and your set to go. You can also enter your home in one of the menu options. Reason #2. I could not get the curser to follow my path because my system had a special aftermarket mod to allow someone to watch a video while the car is moving and that switch was turned off, to allow watching, as it is the GPS that registers movement. I had to discover this and turn it on before the curser could move with me and therefore allow the lady's voice to guide me on my way and to tell me that I had reached my destination. Simon in Estonia guided me through all the trouble shooting to find the problem by "whatsapp" conversation. Great guy. I not know what difference plugging that smaller white plug into the female tale on the harness that came with the new head unit. Here is a link to Simon's instructions. Copy and paste it to your browser and you will have some pictures and some explanation. https://mega.nz/#!O35lhaZL!QfFby_hqEpt7TmXynoY1utN2o_cLoImK-Lsa35eauNc Here is a video that Simon has done of a partial install. It mainly deals with removal. You will need to copy and paste into your browser. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3LHt4EKqhA&list=PLAQwvm6vcv9IQtR8Hl1b6T49KzQGD3dq4&index=14 You will lose your left side mirror if you do not connect that long wire back to the boot. I am running it along the sill panel on the drivers side and will find a way back into the boot. I had another problem. Because I was flying blind in the beginning I hooked it up wrong and blew a 10 amp fuse, third from the top on the right hand row of fuses in the footwell, which gave me a fault in my auto trans light near the gearstick, so that both the park light was on and the DS light when I turned the car off. I got an engine code saying that something was wrong in the transmission area. I went looking for the blown fuse and replaced it and the light went out. I also found that when you disconnect the battery your windows lose the ability to do that last inch auto thing, when you shut the door. You have to put both windows fully down once you reconnect the battery cable and then fully raise them, one by one, holding the finger on the control for about 8 seconds after it reaches the top and it will reset. Do this to both doors. My next problem is that my bonnet open warning light came on when I wired up wrongly and as yet I can not get it to go out. I have tried disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes, then disconnected the battery overnight but no success yet. Anyone had this issue who can offer me a solution? Cheers John

write up for all who may be interested is now on the forum under translation from Japanese to English, explaning exactly how to fit the new unit. Cheers John

Great, thanks for the info on that larger switch. the little one at the bottom did stop the left hand mirror from tilting down when I put the car in reverse so now I know what the other one does. Cheers John

Hi, I am new to the forum and have just bought a 2008 skyline 370GT Coupe. I have had a cruise control fitted that is like factory, installed by Autostrada Brisbane. Next I wanted everything in English, including maps, so I found that there was a guy in Estonia doing this conversion for about $1400. I went ahead and here is my story, hoping that it saves interested people a lot of time and hassle. Cheers John I recently purchased a new (refurbished) head unit that is fully English (Australian), with maps and all, from a an Ebay site in Estonia. I also got a new English keypad with it. A guy by the name of Simon was my ebay purchase contact. My car is a 2008 370GT Skyline. The unit cost me nearly $1400 but I think it was worth it. If you can't find the exact unit on ebay then just find one like it from Russia and contact the seller and tell him what you want. He will most likely be able to meet your need. The unit only took less than 3 wks to get to me. Then the fun started. It did not come with any instructions, so I searched how to replace a head unit on a Skyline but nothing came up, so I looked for "How to remove the head unit from a 2008 Infinity G37" and got what I needed. Here are the steps for those who want to know: 1. There is some metal trim on the top of the leather gear stick boot. Pull it down from the base of the gear shift and remove the clip that holds the gear knob on, don't lose it! And remove the gear knob. 2. Use a right angled needle pick at the rear corner of the trim around the gearstick. It can be difficult to avoid marking the trim of you use a screw driver. This piece of trim looks like brushed aluminium. Put the pick in the small corner gap where it meets the black plastic trim, and pry the corner up, so you can dislodge it and then pull that section up. Put the gearstick into drive by putting your finger under the trim piece, that you are wanting to remove, and push the white plastic slide down that stops you moving the gear leaver back to "drive". If you don't know where that trigger is then you can still get the trim off without the gear stick in drive but once you know where it is then it makes life easier. Unplug the 2 plugs and remove that piece of trim. 3. Unscrew the 2 screws securing the bottom of the clock carrying piece of trim and pull it out from the bottom and pull downways to remove it. Unplug those connections and take that piece of trim off. 4. Unscrew the 2 screws securing the vented piece of trim that surrounds the screen and lift that whole piece of trim out. 5. Unscrew the 2 silver screws that secure the screen to the mounting bracket, pull that screen piece out and unplug it and remove the screen altogether. 6. Locate the white slide that you have to push down to select drive position with the gear stick. It is just to the right and ahead of the gearstick, so that you can get the head unit out without destroying the trim. Unscrew the 2 silver screws that secure the lower part of the head unit and pull the head unit straight back and out. In doing so you are in danger of damaging the black soft trim, be extra careful. Now you can begin to unplug the back of the head unit. You now need to completely remove head unit. Put your driver's seat well forward to help you look down over the back of the head unit and with a screw driver depress the tangs on the plugs and pull them out. It can be challenging with some plugs to see just how to do that. Keep the head unit straight, or you will damage the black trim for sure. You could cover the edge of the soft black trim with a few layers of quality masking tape to help keep it safe, otherwise you are going to kick yourself for negligence. I damaged mine, regardless of how careful I tried to be. I will use black Sikaflex to repair it. I have used that before to repair a damaged steering wheel on my WRX. It is terribly messy stuff but if you wear a pair of washing up gloves so you can work with it and get the desired finish. Do not use surgical cloves that you can't detach from Sikaflex once you get it on them. Keep Sikaflex in the freezer or it will harden in the tube before long. I seal it best I can with a plastic membrane under the nozzle and put it in a plastic bag in the bottom of the freezer and have kept a tube for 2 years, otherwise it might only last a couple of weeks. It is expensive and you usually only need a little at a time. It is most useful for many things as it dries to a very strong rubber that is like engine mounts. I have actually successfully used it to refabricate an exhaust mount on one of my cars. 7. Once you have removed the head unit, replace the keypad with the English labelled unit. It is secured to the vent piece of trim that surrounds the screen. 8. Remove the mounting frame from the old unit with its piggy back connections and fit it to the new head unit. 9. Now begins the challenge, so you can get it right first time J. I conquered after 6 attempts. I had to figure out just how to match the plugs up with the new, very differently oriented, reprogrammed for Australia, head unit, that I was supplied with from Estonia. The confusing thing is that there are 2 sets of plugs that are the same on the factory loom and so you can hook the wrong ones up to the wrong places and if you do so all sorts of funny things will start to happen to your car's lights and fans and starting circuit etc. First up, identify the top 2 main white plugs that come out near the top of the old loom. They have yellow bands around the plastic sheathing of those plugs. These go to the top of the head unit's piggy back, nowhere else! You can plug them in last if you want. There are 2 identical white plugs lower down that go into the top 2 positions on the head unit proper but there are 2 other smaller white plugs that plug into the head unit below them. Plug them in first and then plug the ones that go above after that. There are also some plugs that go to the bottom line of sockets on the new unit. You will still have about 3 plugs from the old loom that go nowhere, once you change the head unit. Push them out of the way so that they don't stop you pushing the head unit fully home after you have plugged it all back together. Then there are 2 plugs that need to change sides: A blue plug that must change sides and plug into a tail that comes with the Estonian set up. This tail plugs in at the top of the head unit near the driver (right hand side). This is the one that gives you your info on the screen, otherwise you will just have a blank screen come up. I missed this one every time and so only had a blank screen. There is a brownish plug that also changes sides, now going to the left of the new unit. There are 2 smaller plugs that go to the lower right (driver's side) of the head unit. There is also a plug that has a female USB on the end that has to be located somewhere on the dash, or in the clove box or wherever you choose, that plugs in at the top left passenger's side of the head unit. 10. This should about do it for you. I don't think I have left anything out except to say that you need to arrange the wires with the new harness as best you can to allow you to be able to push the head unit back enough to get it remounted securely. It can't sit out into the car at all, or you won't get the clock trim back on. 11. Secure the head unit at the bottom first with the 2 silver screws and then refit the screen over it at the top and secure both the head unit and the screen together with the other 2 silver screws. 12. Refit the vent trim and secure it with the 2 black screws. 13. Refit the clock trim and plug in the broad ribbon plug and the 2 other plugs, Now secure the clock trim with it's 2 black screws. 14. Refit the final gear stick trim. Refit the gear knob and its clip and clip up the leather boot. Your done. I hope it all works for you. Cheers, you now pretty well have an Infinity G37.

Thanks, I will try that to see if either one affects the mirror going down in reverse.