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YD34GTT

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Everything posted by YD34GTT

  1. Project mu calipers ? Nice but gg talk about $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ Have you tried looking for evo brembos? You'd be surprised, I found front and Rears evo 8 brembos for 1.5k, Need to consider adaptors, lines, rotors pads etc I guess if $ isn't a problem project mu is good but be prepared to pay over 3.2k for fronts only
  2. Did you do the evo brembo conversion?
  3. I actually bought a full set haha so goinh fronts and back will there be an issue, really don't want to get rid of ABS
  4. Literally bought evo 8 brembos 2 days ago to do the conversion using alpha omega adaptors, lines, bigger BMC etc What abs issues can there be if I do this upgrade?
  5. Wtb red altia badge Hmu if you have Want oem not 3d printed
  6. Thanks for the info did you get hit with 404 at time of order or once item arrived in AU? I'm buying dixcel rotors and the price of buying front and rear separate is the same cost as shipping gets doubled. So might be worth buying separate as that'll be sub 1k and I can avoid costs (I hope)
  7. Looking at buying these dixcel rotors in which total value is about 1300 I can divide the purchase into sending both separately and it will be same price If I can avoid charged that way
  8. Buying some parts online from RHDJapan The amounts total to over 1k Would I be charged taxes when they come in? I can split my order into 2 sub 1k orders for same price if that avoids taxes Or does the DHL shipping cost account for taxes? If anyone has bought from overseas pls
  9. Yeah i did some digging and figured so Might just go upgraded rotors and pads for now and if I increase track work I'll look into going either BBK or go down the road of using alpha omega adaptors and go evo brakes Thanks for the info
  10. Do the dba t3 5000 324 directly bolt on to the gtt ?
  11. For a 34 which will be built for 500kw and maybe do a track day once a year BBK are over kill you would say? Might even consider going project MU rotors over DBA if anyone knows if they're better than DBA
  12. Looking at upgrading my brakes whilst my engine is being built Is it really worth spending the $$ for a big brake kit on my 34? or would a good set of DBA Slotted rotors (t3 4000) and pads suffice (dixcel type z or project mu F236 HC+) Any other recommendations for rotors? I mean going to 355 will look nice but is it worth the $$? For reference will be buying work sp13 18s
  13. Ahaa ok now it makes sense thanks heaps for clarity And sorry last question then everything will make sense for me in this regard So why do so many remove the HX if it's function isn't replaced? Is it not important or is it that it does not perform well with heavily modified engines Like if I remove mine and use those oil cooler kits am I at risk of anything (I live in Sydney if that helps with climate)
  14. Ahh ok so putting the taarks oil block with the sensors and the oil relocation with thermostat does not do what the factory HX does? (That's maybe where my thought process was wrong) I was under the assumption they replaced the factory HX and did a better job
  15. Just still trying to wrap my head around all of this as I'm still newbie in this field and still learning If you get an oil cooler kit that removes the factory HX but has an oil filter relocation with an inbuilt thermostat and the taarks oil block which allows for OEM pil pressure sensor and additional senskry ports for temp why would the factory HX still be required. Aren't all these components essentially working together to allow for warming/cooling of oil regardless of cold starts or not? Example this kit I found has all components to allow for warming/cooling of oil regardless of cold start or drag/roll/circuit https://theskylineshed.com.au/products/the-skyline-shed-tss-oil-cooler-kit-to-suit-rb20-rb25-rb25neo-rb26-rb30?variant=41664869368002
  16. Thanks heaps for clearing it up, have a good direction now as to what I'll be doing
  17. Is this the same as a sandwich plate that was mentioned earlier ?
  18. Ahaaa ok just did some reading some essentially the sandwich plate goes between the block and and the filter and it by passes the oil cooler system unless it's really needed, so essentially leaving the factory warmer cooler until it's needed Am I correct in saying that? Still learning a lot about my build so excuse the ignorance. That's why I love these forums haha
  19. Ahhhh ok so getting an oil cooler without the taarks oil block and getting these sandwich plate attachments is what you're suggesting ?
  20. Well after the comments in the thread i did mention that I'll be looking to track the car maybe couple times a year, so everyone is recommending an oil cooler hahaha now your comment got me confused 😅
  21. OK sweet I think I'm going to go for this one here with PWR oil cooler, taarks oil block and greddy oil filter relocation with built in thermostat https://www.jdmgarage.com.au/shop/engine/cooling/oil-coolers/rb-oil-cooler-and-relocation-kit-v3-rb20-rb25-rb26-greddy-pwr-taarks/
  22. Excuse the mechanical ignorance but regarding the thermostat are you saying replace the oem one for a better one? Do.you have any recommendations?
  23. Yeah but at the same price the gktech is apparently 15% bigger in diameter and advertised to pull out 40% more air on rbs so went with that,
  24. As opposed to what's the better idea? The oem 20 yr old fan is cracked loll
  25. I have purchases a PWR radiator but in terms of fan I'm just changing my standard clutch fan to the GKTECH clutch fan which fits on OEM shroud, I think thermals weren't very necessary for me. As I said the circuit may only be a once a year thing, I think I have most things covered in terms of oil control and I defs will never skimp on cheap ebay stuff haha I've gone quality all around so if an oil cooler is needed I'm looking at greddy maybe with the PWR plate. But there was mention in this thread of thermostat I went g30 because I wanted a little more response because the car will be very much street more than anything else so decided against g35
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