Chopstick Tuner

Totally understandable, my post wasn't entirely clear because I wasn't yet sure what I was dealing with. But having fitted up the other side it seemed just too tight a squeeze to get pads past the rotor both sides. It's entirely possible it pressed slightly harder against one pad but I think the issue still stems simply from thickness unfortunately. I'm going to look into getting pads altered and see how that goes. It's definitely not much, as everything fits with no shims fine like I had before, but that's obviously not ideal lol Always more to learn working on these. Cheers for the insights!

The gap seemed pretty equal tbh, I measured quite roughly using a tape yesterday so I'm not 100% on the measurement (perhaps 19mm from caliper inside edge to rotor, from memory) but were the same both sides of the caliper. On passenger side both inner and outer pad seemed equally jammed and same result, can't spin it. I've pulled them out for a look and rotors are definitely 32mm if not a hair thicker. I did consider machining rotors as I thought it would be a more permanent solution but discovered there's a marking stating minimum thickness of 30mm 😅 Just to clarify, where would you consider a spacer on the caliper? As the caliper sits on the rotor side of the hub, the only way to sit it further away from rotor would be to machine a bit off the mounting point of the caliper.

Yes on a R32 gtst, there's nothing between the caliper and hub though. But yes I'm fairly certain the rotors I ordered were for R32 gtr which would be 32mm. Still doesn't explain the issue unless it's a manufacturing issue with the rotors which seems unlikely given the brand. I really don't want to buy any more parts just to diagnose 🙈 Tried to reply earlier but wasn't working for some reason so I'll reply to both comments* Yeah it wasn't as easy as I'd like to slide the pads over the rotor with all the hardware attached unfortunately. Thinking I may have to do the unfortunate compromise of getting rotors machined down to fit rather than buy more new ones. Perhaps chassis matters slightly ie 33 calipers + 32gtr rotors on a 32 gtst. I'm not sure, I find it unusual

Hey folks, Long story short I had an issue with brake squeal, and since fitting the oem shim kit, they're tight af on just the inner pad. Just want to see if anyone has previously encountered this issue before I go spending more money on rotors/ machining etc So full story. Since replacing front brakes I've been chasing an issue with horrible brake squeal at all temps. I had fitted DBA T3 296mm front rotors (as car evidently has R33 gtst/32gtr calipers since 296mm were on it when i bought it), Bendix Ultimate Pads and rebuilt the front calipers using an OEM rebuild kit so pistons now move nice and free. With these pads I couldn't fit the oem anti squeal shims/plates whatever you prefer to call em (they have their own built in shim which obstructs the oem ones), so I didn't and they screamed at medium braking no matter what I did. So to solve the squeal I've swapped them out for a set of Project Mu pads meaning I was able to fit a full new set of oem shims. However once pads were in I noticed there was twice as much pad free play on the outer pad than the inner (inner was quite tight) and once wheel was on and tightened it couldn't turn, as it has pressed the rotor against the inner pad. So while the problem may seem silly, I'm struggling to think of reasons for this aside from rotor offset being incorrect or rotor being too thick, or caliper pistons being stuck but they move fine and all 4 pistons are sitting in the same position. Is there a difference in rotor thickness between 32 gtr and 33 gtst? Is there difference in offset/depth? Have I missed something completely stupid? I could remove the shims but that doesn't really solve the underlying issue lol. Happens on both sides if that helps. Thanks for reading this long post.

Yeah this is what I was looking at, think I'll have more peace of mind just biting the bullet This is true but I don't have any of the above, I work on stuff that's much bigger as a career so don't really find myself making brake lines or anything similar.

Actually looks a bit different, mine is gtst and just goes like 2 inches downward curving. However if the gtr one is discontinued then surely the rest are too so I think I'll have to bite the bullet and just change for a single piece braided line. Cheers for your help

Is it even possible (and cost effective) to get the short OEM hard line that attaches to the front caliper itself? The pipe nuts on mine are well round and were a pain to remove to get caliper off. I already have braided lines up to there so before I fork out for another set of braided lines just so I can delete the hard line I figured I'd see if anyone knows a part number or aftermarket option. Tried searching and all I get is braided kits lol. And obvs if they're gonna be crazy money I'll just have to get new braided lines to make life easier Cheers

Mate you need to put all the info here so we're not going in circles. 1) Have you removed plugs to see if there's too much fuel as one of the guys suggested? 2) Have you swapped fuel lines to be sure you're not mixed up as was suggested? No offence but you didn't sound remotely confident they're correct. 3) Have you checked that you have power at the injectors at all? 4) What was the fuse that was blown? 5) Have you contacted the tuner for their input considering they just tuned it and possibly missed something? Diagnostics requires a lot of ruling things out until you narrow down possibilities, difficult to do with half the information available.

Timing belt is the same, water pump differs on a neo by the one smaller bolt hole if I'm not mistaken.

M12x1.25, length I believe is 40 or 42mm Front is 14.3mm knurl Rear is 13mm knurl

Should have a constant 12v supply to the injectors, ecu switches the earth. Not sure how many things could prevent ecu from telling injectors to fire but there's a few

Do as said above just to rule it out. Then next step, if you're confident you have fuel in rail, is see if your injectors have power and if they're clicking at all.

If you're concerned about battery voltage, put it on a load tester. If it drops below 9v put it in the bin. Could even have a loose battery terminal (forgive me for starting so basic, I don't know how mechanically minded you are) and therefore losing electrical power and spark etc. Start with that before diving in deep, charging problems and lack of voltage will affect spark, how much power the fuel pump gets and so on.

Did you prime it after? Having all the fuel out of the rail and lines means it's not just going to fire up first flick of the key. Need to get the pump to prime 3 or 4 times before trying to start. Failing that, possibly lines mixed up as Duncan said

Just to add, that does not look like the correct banjo bolt. Not a washer issue, that bolt looks too short

The thickness difference you mention is negligible. As was said above, the connecting part is for ease of installation rather than needing to hold the inside washer in place while trying to line it up. New pipes with already attached banjo bolts sometimes have a plastic retainer that you rip off once you get the threads started. They're not that specific, just make sure they're thick enough to actually be crushed and not too thick that it reduces the thread engagement - both unlikely. So just get your diameters right and tighten it up. Oh and copper washers should not be doubled up.

True, didn't think of the voltage they run at if using one direct from an EV. And the cost. Not sure what the aftermarket is like for stuff like that, obviously electric water pumps and ps pumps are popular, but they have a demand among track and motorsport cars hence the options exist. AC pumps however, not so much

Long story short, if you plan to do it you'll likely be pioneering constant AC on an RB track car, and will be letting us know how good or bad the idea went. Curious to see if an electric AC pump can be made to work in there, equally curious to see if your stock one explodes at wot high RPM. Godspeed sir 🤣

Most manufacturers have this feature as standard, to avoid damaging AC compressor and components, not for the extra hp. Would it damage from one or two over revs? Probably not, but constant high RPM on a track, I would say you're asking for it to fail. I don't know of anyone that's done it, and there's probably a good reason.

I still wouldn't rule it out. It raises the question of why the cooler hose blew off all of a sudden, usually means it's been loose for a while.

Mind me asking what you've owned/driven before this build since you say it's your first Rb25? Just curious, as you've asked for inputs on whether your power goals are too much for a street Rb25, then kinda tried to tell them why you should build it for 700whp anyway then potentially dial it back to 500. That's a big drop and the components used to make 700hp safely are going to have drawbacks in a 2.5L, which won't be remedied by dialing back to 500hp nor will you see the benefits of them. Your injector argument is not the same, going from an 850cc injector to 1000cc is not going to change your power delivery like putting a much bigger turbo on than is necessary. But just for my two cents and to humbly answer one of the questions in your post, I would consider that power level too much for fun street use. You see guys run that kind of power and they're changing gear as soon as the wastegate cracks open, because otherwise they're frying tyres, seems a waste if you can't get on full boost.

Now I get ya, interesting. Would you put an aftermarket sensor in and bin the oem one, then use that sensor to do your factory gauge as well as a new gauge or ecu input? Because I considered getting rid of oem one but didn't want the oil light on the dash, or to bridge the factory wires.

Well he mentioned adding oil temp sensor also, so adding an additional gauge means he has no choice to but to find a way to fit an extra sensor in there. But as for your question, convenience is the likely answer. Seems easy to just chuck a new sensor in there somewhere, new gauge on the dash and just not rely on any oem sensor, wiring, or gauges.

Looks pretty much like what I got

Correct. Many aftermarket will be 1/8npt so need a T Piece that's BSP on one and npt on the other if you buy one that is