replicate

Cool, i'll give it another go.

I've got an S13 button but i couldn't see how to fit it. I couldn't get the handbrake apart to fit the button.

I checked my oil level before I went home and I still had plently. Got it up on jacks to check everything out. The bungs for the sensors i think were the main culprit. I had only done them up finger tight. I think there was a little bit leaking from the hose connections on the relocator, I don't think there was any leaking from the hoses on the block. I went over everything again and tightened everything up. Not a drop leaked from the cooler fittings, as those were the ones i actually got some locktight on. Just wish i had thought of that earlier and put it on all of them. Still had a bit of oil on the floor this morning, though i'm hoping it was just oil that had already dripped onto the plastic shield under the car and had eventually made its way to the ground. I guess all i can do it keep monitoring it. I wiped down all the fittings last night so i'll check them again tonight.

Do you mean the two bungs for the pressure and temp senders? Come to think of it I don't think i tightened them up very tight. Only finger tight i think. Just hope i have enough oil to get home. Also how much extra oil does the cooler + lines take?

I've just installed one of those Just Jap oil cooler kits on my RB20. All seemed to be well except when i checked my car at lunch today it has leaked a lot of oil (after driving it to work). I'm guessing its leaking from the threads. I put some lock-tight on the connectors on the cooler but it was an after thought and i could not get to the other connectors on the block or the remote filter mount easily, hence didn't put any on those. So i'm guessing thats where it has leaked from. Is lock-tight what other people use when installing them? Or something else? As i thought i did all the nuts up quite tight, but something still must not be quite right. Am i missing something else?

I wonder if the drive line has been beefed up at all. As i doubt the drive line will be as strong as a GTR's.

Just got my cooler fitted. Pic doesn't really do it justice, looks pretty mean in the flesh.

Has anyone replaced the rubber boots at the front on the steering shafts? One of mine has been plit for a while and i thought i'd better fix it. Would S13 be the same? Or R32? Or something else?

I have the same problem. Just bought a strut brace and it doesn't fit b/c of the bov. One way around it could be to get an aftermarket bov that sits on an adaptor plate, which would sit it sideways instead of up. But i don't really want to waste money on a bov that will only make my car run worse and annoy me after a few months.

I bought my s2 tail light for 5000yen. The shipping to get them here cost more than the lights.

Nissan is not much better. I went to see how much a new antenna is. $97 for just the mast! i nearly choked. though i should be too supprised. have to make do with my upside down broken one for now.

Cheers guys. Once I get my front mount on i'll drop toshi a line. CUL202 Sounds like you have similar mods to me. What power output did you end up with? And what kind of millage do you get?

Can anyone recomend a good place in Sydney that can do a rom tune on a RB20?

Is the swaybar front or rear? Is it from a GTR?

Item: Auto Gauge Sandwich plate for oil pressure and temp senders Location: Sydney Item Condition: Brand new in box Reason for Selling: Bought oil cooler with remote filter fitting which has provision for senders Price and Payment Conditions: looking for $60 Extra Info: Instructions say the thread size is 1/8 NPT Contact Details: PM or 0402 266 755

Does anyone know if the swaybars are a different diameter on turbo and NA Cefiro's? Or even beter, would anyone like to measure their stock swaybars so I can compare to mine? I'm just thinking since my car was NA it might have thinner swaybars, if so i'll just have to go get some GTR ones, damn

yeah i think you will need the S13 hicas boss. i've got the non hicas boss on mine.

Thats a possibility (exhaust) the dump and front pipe have been replaced, but the rest of the system is quite old and banged up.

From what i've read on here it's supposed to be 10psi.

I'm using the one that was originally attached. This was giving me 0.5 bar on the old turbo. I don't know if its an original hose or not. Should i use the hose from an RB25 or RB20? Does either have a restrictor in it?

Really hangin for some pics here. If it looks the goods, i'll be getting rid of my ugly red rear seats for sure.

Hi guys I've just installed an RB25 turbo on my RB20 retaining the RB20 actuator. Now since there wasn't provision on the RB25 turbo to connect the actuator to, I drilled a hole in the intercooler pipe between the intercooler and the intake manifold. Works well but i am only getting 0.6bar or about 9psi. At first I thought it had something to do with the hose I used as the original hose that was connected was a combination of 3 hoses joined together. Two with a larger internal diameter and one thinner. So since i didn't need the length i just used one of the larger diam hoses. This morning i joined up the other two pieces which included the smaller diam hose and now i'm only getting 0.5 bar. Now as i understood it, using the RB20 actuator on the RB25 turbo should give me a base pressure of 10psi, up from 7psi or so. On the stock turbo I was already getting 0.5 to 0.6 bar. So 8 or 9psi. Which sounded right as I have a turbo back 3 inch exhaust. So i thought with this setup i'd be getting around 11-12psi or 0.8 - 0.9 bar. Any thoughts on this? My only idea is that the stock intercooler is posing a restriction as it is stock and i believe quite oily as well, judging by the amount of oil present in the intercooler pipes.

Cheers for the effort mass iv. Still need the part.

Getting desperate now.... Nissan want $240 for the part and it would have to be shipped from Japan. If someone has one i'd really appreciate it.

Any pics of the rear seats? I have GTR front seats, wouldn't mind getting the rears to match.