ausdrift

Oh, car is a 1996 R33 GTS-T

So I'm half way through installing a FMIC kit yesterday and decide that its a great time to check on my turbo while I have all the piping off. I take much of the piping off and find oil in some of the pipes. It isn't all the way through though thankfully. It seems to go from the turbo to only the first arm of piping, so not even to the section that dives down to the IC through the engine bay floor yet (so oil for about 40cm from turbo). I checked the turbo itself and there was a little oil on the inlet. I checked the wheel for movement and there is no real side to side movement, but a little back and forth, maybe 1mm. It feels to me like the condition of the turbo wheel/bearings etc is ok, but the oil leak suggests the rear seal is worn. Am I on the money here? The car runs factory boost (for now), has done 125,000kms, and it runs fine. So, what do we think the problem is, and importantly how long would you expect it to last? Also if I leave it as is what will be the consequences? Will it just get more and more smokey as the seals wear out more, or worse? thanks

Not rare. At least if you live in Japan, and not really dangerous either. I had to buy one from Autobacs when I owned my car over there in order to pass rego inspection, as all cars must have one. Cost me about $5-10. Its a road flare, you pull the tape (or however you actually ignite it) drop it on the road and it smoulders a bright pink to alert other road users and after a certain time, eg 10 mins it burns itself out. You commonly see them on the freeways there when there are broken down cars or crashes. Pretty useful over there in fact. Cops/highway rescue staff use them too.

as a post script to this. I chiselled out the sealant on the seams to the side of the boot, filled it with silicone sealant and..... while that seals perfectly it wasn't the cause of the leak. It appears that the water (from testing pouring buckets of water over parts of the boot area) enters from under the wing over the boot lid which is attached to the trunk lid. I have since silicone the whole wing (as couldn't be farked trying to remove it properly, as all the 18 year old tape has well deteriorated) which should finally provide the fix. haven't had a chance to test yet, but I feel like the problem should bee fixed now finally.

Knuckles are sold

Wish I saw this earlier, I may well have gone....

Couldn't say right now as Id have to work out a fair split of knuckles Vs LCA. LCAs would be the much cheaper of the 2 though, comparatively. PM me if seriously considering

I would consider splitting the knuckles and LCA, but only if there was a buyer for each

FYI These are now also listed on Ebay. I'd rather sell here though, Ebay takes a commission : )

Still available

As a postscript to this I checked under the car and the connection I need to get at is directly above the tailshaft and I'm not sure how I can unhook it (its a pressed metal connection, not bolts) so I might just get my mechanic to deal with it

Any questions either post, PM or email is ok

The car does have a handbrake. Its modified to be a spin turn type for drift but I don't drift anymore and am replacing it with a wrecker item so it works like standard again. Looks like I'll be jacking the car up then. I was hoping I could get away with not having to; its a PITA.

That's my backup plan. Im hoping someone can give me intel first

With spring around the corner it feels time to list my 3UP 4537 Knuckles and LCAs for sale. I bought these when I was living in Japan and drifting and if you had an R33, these were the only option. Luckily they also happen to be an awesome option. They are crafted by the boss of the 3UP Workshop and are so well made that to look at them you wouldn't even know they were modified. The Garage, 3UP is a small one located in Saitama, Japan, but they are passionate about their Nissans and have even run a car in D1 Street legal (see pics) The name 4537 comes from the fact that they have been modified to turn the steering angle 45 deg to the right, 37 to the left, which is a crucial few degrees over standard, and more than enough to make a big difference when drifting. I went from spinning half the time at Nikko's first corner to being able to hold it and some dignity. Someone with proper drifting skills would be able to really play around with the car. When swapping out knuckles you also need the supporting hardware, and that's where the Lower Control Arms come in. They have had thee stopper removed and a stronger plate set back on the arm welded in its place. Its also been boxed for extra rigidity. The other things you need (not included with these parts) are longer tierods to account for the extended reach of the steering. 3UP recommend fitting the Ikeya Formula parts for an s14 Silvia as being a direct fit for this, but there would be a variety of solutions to this. You may also need offset tension rods to account for the wheels turning further than standard, these are also commonly available. This kit has been designed by 3UP not to bind and to provide greater lock for drifters. Its a high quality kit and the best part is, by being a direct fit you can keep your standard parts and fit them back anytime you want. Items are located in Melbourne and I would prefer local pick up, but will send at buyers expense. They are, in fact, boxed up and ready to go and come with instructions in Japanese and shop stickers. Good value at $550 and these parts are rare-as; don't expect to see any others coming for sale for a long time. Best to email - [email protected] as Im not always on SAU. Thanks.

So I have to replace my hand brake unit soon and I have it plus the 40cm of cable trailing on it, but am unsure of how to install. Any tips on this? And importantly, can I install this purely through the cabin, or do I need to jack up the car and get under it? thanks

thanks

anyone?

Very simple question, I'm gunna replace my handbrake as I "modified" it a while back and its kinda stuffed, so I'm just going to replace the whole lever unit itself, not the wires etc. I can see many for R34s for sale. They look to be the same as an R33. Does anyone know if its a direct fit? thanks

As a brief postscript to this little adventure, I ended up getting Ashwood Panels to do it. I checked under the car recently and it all seems to look pretty good, so I'm going to therefore trust that they did a proper job.

Thanks, got one now

Planning to pick one up this weekend

Hi All, Didn't want it to come to this but it has. I have to prove my beast isn't as noisy as some random cop on the side of a road thought it was. While I have been trying to buy a standard exhaust for almost a month now, I've sadly come up empty as no one in Melbourne seems to have one. Worse still the deadline for the test is fast approaching. Soooo instead, is someone able to lend me one for 2 weeks? Id be after a standard Nissan ECR33 coupe cat back exhaust to basically throw on my car, get the noise test done, and then swap back and return to you. Nothing comes for free these days, and so I'd naturally be happy to pay a rental fee for the use of the part too, and would pick up and drop off. If you don't need it anymore, id be interested to buy too. PM or reply here. Thanks all

Thanks for the response. Wouldn't have to be stock, per say, just one that passes noise test. That said I was really hoping to get something here in Melbourne as there isn't much time left before the date I need it done by. Thanks anyway.

Stiiiiiiiiiiiil looking