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Everything posted by ausdrift
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Will A Standard R33 Gtr Catback Exhaust Fit A Gts-T?
ausdrift replied to ausdrift's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
hmm ok... good to know it can atleast be done -
Will A Standard R33 Gtr Catback Exhaust Fit A Gts-T?
ausdrift replied to ausdrift's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Or even what needs to be done to have an r34 gts-t cat back fit an r33 gtst (im aware these aren't quite the same)? -
Ive had a couple of leads but no luck as yet. Do you know anyone who might have one? If so, please fwd this thread to them too. Thanks
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ha ha, damn. Still looking people ; )
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Im still looking but will be away from PC until June 5, so do reply if you have one
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bump
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Parting Out 1994 R33 Skyline
ausdrift replied to perry_r33's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Do you have a standard R33 exhaust still? -
still looking
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Just after the cat back part as I need to pass an EPA test email [email protected] or PM Thanks
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Chasing Boot Leak - How To Remove Rear Wing?
ausdrift replied to ausdrift's topic in General Maintenance
Ive yet to tackle this; one of those jobs that isn't that much fun but I will have to address. Ill probably try to do it right though as I noticed the beginnings of a little surface rust, so wanna investigate that more. I hear fish oil is really good for rust prevention, so might incorporate that into the whole 'solution' -
Chasing Boot Leak - How To Remove Rear Wing?
ausdrift replied to ausdrift's topic in General Maintenance
Can anyone confirm how many bolts, and where, and what holds this thing to the boot lid? -
Chasing Boot Leak - How To Remove Rear Wing?
ausdrift replied to ausdrift's topic in General Maintenance
Rather than go down the kidnap-experience route, I did it a different way. I taped paper to the underside of the boot lid, horizontally under the lip of the boot area at the sides and also placed paper on the boot of the car. Then I poured buckets of water over it all, opened the boot and looked to where the water marks came from. I've previously, aside from re-sealing the tail lights, also used the same sealant stuff to check and seal under the rear window and also along the metal seams from where the boot is welded around. I also checked the rubber weather strip on the boot, and that's fine too. On close inspection the sealant/tape between the wing and the boot is dried and cracked everywhere, and that's consistent with the boot being the water entry point. Just wish it was something a little easier. Looks like Easter weekend might be the time to tackle this. I had a quick check under the boot lid, but couldn't exactly see which bolts would be for the wing. Can anyone describe exactly the location of them and how many? I can probably work it out, but its always nice to use someone else's experience instead. -
So, Ive put up for years with a leaky boot in my R33. I even removed and re-sealed the rear lights (and what a PITFA that was) but no change. So I finally got off my arse and gave it another go trying to work out exactly where it was leaking from and my best guess now it that I think the water enters through the boot lid where the GTR style Nissan wing and the boot connect. I can see that the sealant is cracked most of the way around it and I think water must somehow enter through bolts? holding the wing to the boot. So, the question; How easy is it to remove the rear GTR style wing? is it just a couple of bolts and then a case of prying the sealant/boot/wing apart? Have you done this and fixed the leak? thanks
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Fair enough if I went in saying stuff like that, but the whole time my attitude was "here is my problem, what do we need to do to fix it, and what will it cost me", with an attitude of wanting to be educated on what needs to be done. I even had one guy pressing me to name a figure of how much I expected to have to pay for this kind of work! What is this, the price is right? I went there to have the price told to ME, not the other way around. I think some of them just didn't really want to do that kind of work...
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Rather than name names, i'll just say that I saw 5 in total, all in the same area as Ashwood Panel. Ashwood did actually send the quote as promised, just a few days later so im happy for that. As with anything like this, have a chat to the person/shop and you can usually get a fair impression of what type of place it is/people work there, and therefore if you feel good leaving your car with them.
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Well, an update for anyone interested. I went to 5 shops in the same area. 1 was helpful, interested, gave a good look under the car at the rust and said they would get me a quote in 24 hours. 1 week and a follow up call later and I have still received nothing. The other 4 didn't impress me, made little effort to check the area or take any useful steps to do so, and to be honest, I doubt were that interested. One was even a little patronising suggesting that "its going to cost more than $300/ you aren't going to get much work done with only 3 hours per side". This was without me at any time during the conversation mentioning budget, hours of labour or any expectation I had on cost. So back to square one. Any more suggestions of places to go? east is best, but its looking like I'll have to expand where I'm willing to go.
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Yep, going to check out Ashwood and 2 others in the area, lacey and AAA as all do rust. My wallet is quivering as we speak
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OK cool, a good start. Any more suggestions/experiences?
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So on one of my many trips under the R33 I have found a fairly noticeable section of rust at the rear jack point on the passenger side. Its big enough to need, I would believe, for a section of metal to be cut out and a new one welded in. So Im assuming that any old smash repair shop could do this work, but on contacting one I find that this isn't the case and Id need to find someone who specialises in rust repair. So my questions are... Do you know of anywhere reliable on the east side of the city that can do this work? and Have you repaired similar? how much did it cost you? thanks
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Done and Done. Not sure how I forgot to do that in the first place..
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Unsurprisingly, got under the back of the car and the driver side rear swaybar link has a bit of a creak in it when you move it about (same location as the noise when I drive) so that might well be the cause of that noise too.
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Yeah, im going to keep an eye on it all though. Tyres are fine, and I put it down to also being off the ground when I checked. In other news, I was looking at the many underbody pics I took yesterday while there and noticed a turbo dump pipe bolt hanging on right at the end of the thread. Great I saw it and can act on it before it falls right off, but sucks as it means I gotta get out and under the damn car again today...