ausdrift

UPDATE So I got the front end on stands and got in there to see what I could find. I was half way through fitting standard front suspension as a test when I noticed some movement in the swaybar. it turns out that the swaybar links I bought were a combination of a little loose and a little ill-fitting. I taped the thread (for where it goes through the hole in the swaybar so as to eliminate any play), and also added a washer to all connecting points with a nut, then tightened them all up solid. I also noticed a little more play than I would like with the tie rod ends where they link up with the knuckle, so I tightened this up a bit more too. Then went for a test drive and, yey, clunking noises are gone!! Just an occasional clunk at the rear to follow up. Some other day.

ha ha, yeah I guess I better keep a look out for the unexpected.

yeah, other threads seem to suggest a variety of things. I guess if it moves, it can make noise. Im wondering if it could be the swaybar touching the control arm, but that's a long shot too. Im hoping for a magic bullet solution, but don't think I'll find one.

Damn, cause I was planning to eat it...

any ideas?

I would hope so, but then again I know that in some countries the legal definition of "asbestos free" can include up to 5-10% asbestos and therefore can sneak into the country (like in gaskets etc) unnoticed. I would hope Nissan wouldn't include this, and thinking logically, the lining under a bonnet wouldn't need to withstand the kind of temps that you would usually need a material like that (as opposed to brakes, gaskets etc) so I would assume it wouldn't include it?

How would one know if the coolant sensor is defective? is there a test or check for this? Also I checked hypermiling; that's pretty anal stuff, so I think ill just drive as I usually do (which is fairly gentle anyway). I just don't want to guzzle unnecessary fuel when i choose to own a I6T engines car that's 18 years old.

So last weekend I decided to heighten the front coilovers a bit as it turned out the tyres would rub the underside of the guards on certain occasions. So I took them out, raised them up 5mm and bam; problem solved. After doing a test drive I noticed a variety of clunks and occasional noises and now I'm unsure if they have been there all along and I didn't notice as I always run the stereo, or is it to do with the work I just did. I don't believe it to be related to the past weekend work as it was a simple enough process and I put it all back together tightly. Even more confusing is that most of the suspension related parts are in good condition or relatively new. A quick run down... coilovers - around 15,000kms front sway bar - aftermarket, new polyurethane bushes 700kms ago swaybar links- 1300kms old tension rods - solid, 8,000kms steering ends - solid, 8,000kms LCA - standard tower brace I know that a set up like this is conducive to NVH but this is something else. The clunks seem to happen at lower speeds and usually when I'm just minding my business going in a straight line. Its not set off by any specific road conditions or driver inputs. The vibration of the clunk I can even sense through my feet, but I think its coming from both sides. Also there is one from the right rear of the car sometimes too. I did jack each corner of the car up and did a basic check to see if there was any play in the ball joints, but they seem ok. I did notice about an inch of sideways play in the front wheels, equally on both sides, and put this down to normal play in the L/R motion of the steering system (would that be right?) So yeah, I'm kinda concerned as I feel like I have the obvious stuff covered, but that said I don't have much confidence in tracking down these clunks. Has this happened to you? What was it? or what have I overlooked? Thanks!

Can anyone elaborate on or confirm the last point? I don't want to touch it if it contains aspestos

The first attempt didn't appear to save. Mods can delete this thread

I feel a bit stupid for asking this, but on the underside of the bonnet there is a grey liner attached. I'm sure Nissan put this on for a reason, but its rubbing on my newly painted strut tower bar. What will be the effect if I bin it?

I feel a bit stupid even asking this, but on the R33 stunck on the underside of the bonnet there is the standard grey liner. I figure Nissan put it on for a reason, but its rubbing on my newly painted strut tower bar. What difference will binning the liner make?

True, my kms/tank isn't exactly a scientific measure, but that's ok as its just a quide to see what differences I can get. How would replacing a water temp sensor change anything?

Sweet, yeah that's the one,thanks

Quick one, I remember reading a tutorial with a step by step on how to disassemble the fuel tank slide, clean and then reinstall it. This was as on some peoples cars it would stick and/or not give an accurate fuel reading as it was gunked up. I've been looking for that everywhere- does anyone know where it is, or has a link to it; im sure I read it on SAU but cant find it now. thanks

OK, so I'm aware this is an age old discussion, but I'm trying to get better fuel economy from my R33 and wonder what I'm missing here. Firstly, engine mods are - full exhaust, Blitz panel filter I was getting around 330kms/tank and decided this was pretty poor. I then replaced the O2 sensor on the assumption that it should have been old enough to be not working at its prime. This gained me only about 30 extra kms/tank. Now at 360kms/ tank I have recently added a bigger dump pipe and metal cat, making it a full modified exhaust which has not really changed things (that's not why I installed them, though). The AFM I would have cleaned about 10,000kms ago and I would have thrown in a can of quality injector cleaner for good measure about 5000kms ago, so while I will do these again soon I don't expect much/any change. Spark plugs are around 12,000?kms old, and would have been platinum/iridium? So the big questions are 1- What OEM parts should I change/maintain to bring fuel economy back up to what it would have been designed to give me? 2- What else can I do to improve this? Thanks

Ha ha, thanks

Still for sale

OK cool, Ill keep it in mind

So I've just replaced some exhaust system parts and have found that the cat-back part of the exhaust is bent, cracked and Im having clearance issues with the underbody too. So Im thinking it might be time to cough up to get it replaced. So my very vague question is, roughly how much do you think I'd be looking at to get a catback system made up for an ECR33 and any recommended places on the east side of Melbourne? thanks

Any other takers/questions/comments?

Ok cool, any questions, shoot em over

Any questions either post here or email is fine too

I did have a pic from 2 years ago when I removed the parts, but sadly that's gone now. I did find a pic from 3UP themselves (sorry, had trouble uploading pic) http://www.e-3up.com/blog/uploads/sagyou_asi_sita/nakuru/nakkuru_2_.jpg

For sale are my set of 3UP 4537 Knuckles and modified Lower Control Arms for an ECR33 Nissan Skyline. The backstory first. I lived and worked in Japan for a number of years and liked my drifting. Wanting to focus on suspension mods over engine ones, and having modified everything else underbody I decided to get the knuckles/arms changed. By far the best and most popular way in Japan to do this on a R33 was to get modified items from 3UP. 3UP is a tuning shop located in Saitama prefecture and they specialise in performance parts for Nissans. They have a number of original parts that they have created for the R33, as they run a D1 Street legal R33 Skyline in which to do the R&D. Here is their demo car and a quick vid of it at Nikko http://www.e-3up.com/archives/category/democar Having imported my car to Australia and removed the good stuff for compliance, I haven’t got back into drifting and see no point in these parts sitting in my house collecting dust. Firstly the Knuckles. They are modified Nissan items designed to give the car a few more degrees steering angle over standard, specifically from 45 to the right, 37 to the left, hense the name. The quality of work on these are amazing; they almost look like they were cast steel. I can vouch for their effectiveness. I had these installed for the final 2 times I drifted in Japan and I went from running out of lock and spinning on Nikko’s famous first turn, to drifting at a greater angle or catching the f-ups without actually spinning. A very noticeable improvement. Now, its important to note that in order to fit and take advantage of the knuckles you do need some supporting hardware, and that’s where the lower control arms come in. They have had the original metal stopper removed and replaced with thick one set flush with the arm and have been boxed for greater rigidity. They are sturdy and are far stronger than you would expect and allow for more angle over the standard stopper. When increasing the steering angle on a car there are other considerations too. You will need to have longer tierods or tierod extenders as you will now be turning with the arms extended further. 3UP recommend Ikeya formula items for an S14 Silvia as being a direct fit solution, for example. In addition you will probably need offset tension rods so that your rim won’t hit them at its new, wider full lock. The kit has been designed by 3UP not to bind on full lock either, so it presents as a proven, reliable method to get more lock from your steering, and without the need to cut up or trade in your own original parts. Check the pics below, including the side-by-side shots of stock Vs 3UP parts. I’m selling these as a combined set due to the fact they are designed to work that way. All parts fit right up, no cutting etc required, and this means you can revert to standard anytime you want too. The parts are for sale pick up in Melbourne, unless you are willing to pay, in advance, the expected crap load it would cost to send anywhere. The knuckles, especially, weigh a ton. Email to [email protected] Parts come with the original Japanese instructions and shop stickers. These are rare-as, don't expect to see any others anytime soon. Price - $550 for the package.