ausdrift

So I wanted a drift button for the handbrake for drift for my 33, but they arent commonly available. I was getting sick of taping it up at the track and wanted a button that looked good and worked. Not getting too far on the forums I decided to just get one and make it fit. The only other option was pay around $100 for a cusco item that includes an ugly blue alluminium handle: no thanks. Descresion was the key, so I bought a black (matches the interior) KTS spin turn knob for a Silvia/180 and set to work. Sadly, while it fits a silvia easily, fitting it to an R33 requires modification. Probably why I couldnt buy it for a tenner in the first place. This might not be a textbook approach, but its what I did and it seems to work. NOTE: This is a guide only, no responsibility taken if you f*** anything up: do at your own risk. 1, remove the handbrake handle First off unbutton the vinal cover to get better access, then set to work pulling off the cushioned handle. You will soon find this near impossible. After much effort i resorted to carfully cutting it half its length from the underside of the handle, so it won't look too ugly afterwards. Using any tools I could, including flat head screw drivers, pliers and other long thin tools I finally managed to ply it off. The rubber handle cover grips the metal bar very well, so dont worry about any trouble when putting it back on. You might have some issues with the thin shiny metal ring that surrounds the button. It partially spits apart from the underside, so you can split it open a bit if you some room to move when removing the cushioned handle. I ended up pulling the whole handle off over the metal ring, as its attached to the metal handle unit. Dont worry about bending the metal too much, as some of it will be cut anyway. And yeah, you might hack some stuff up a little here, but if your drifting it it probably doesnt matter too much anyway. 2, Unhook the spring Now that the handbrake handle cover is off, set about prepping it for the spin knob. There is a spring held on by 2 tabs part way down the handle. Use screw drivers to dissconnect them so that the handbrake button no longer uses the spring return function. Unhook and let it sit freely inside. 3, Cut away the metal button surround. The reason why the spin turn knob wont go it in the first place is because there isnt enough space for it to jam in and move freely. To rectify this I ended up pulling the metal ring part near the button half out (you cant/dont pull it fully out as its part of the hand brake mechanism) and cutting almost 1cm of the metal off almost all the way around the circumfrance. You might even do it all the way, but thats what I did. Jam the knob in and adjust it using pliers, etc so it so that you can smoothly use the function of the handbrake (but just manually now) not how it worked with the spring. It shouldnt stick and it shouldnt come off easily if you pull it. Once you have achieved this, take it out one last time, put the handbrake handle back on, and refit the button. You might need to jam an screwdriver up from underneith through the split cushioned handle and through the metal underneith handle up so as to give the mechanism something to hold it steady so you can probably press on the button. Then fit the cushioned handle: it should fit tightly again over the metal handle, but you can superglue to bit you cut earlier if you wish. 4, Test to make sure everyting works, and BAM, there ya go, drift button function for 1/8th the price of the full Cusco set. Now get out there and use it

anyone have a pic of the wiper relay box? thanks. I pulled all the terminals off of the wiper motor stuff under bonnet and cleaned them up. i tried it (days later) and its stopped now, so Im gunna wait and see if it starts up again, cuase i was a bit surprised that this has fixed it.

good, any more info people. Experiences?

Ive searched for this but didnt get a clear answer. Basically my wipers on my R33 dont respond to the indicator stalk and me selecting to have them on or not. This just happened over the weekend. They are staying on by themselves and the only way I can get it to stop is by removing the fuse. As a side note, I think the windscreen washer motor will occasionally squirt a little water onto the windscreen from the passenger jet. From your experiences, what is causing this? How can I fix it? What exact parts (part numbers or exact name would be fantastic if you know) would need to be changed, and how much did you pay? If you can post photos, even better, (this could be a good guide for others who have the same problem) Thanks, I really have no idea on this.

Once again,a good chance to stand out from the gaggle of R33s. Email is above

I got this for my R33 but its a series 2 and doesn't fit, so its gotta go. Its genuine NISMO and originally cost around 30,000yen, which is around $360, but these are no longer in production and are hard to come by. The grill is in need of some TLC. There are numerous stone chips, a little rust on the mesh and one of the 4 brackets has snapped off. IMO fixing the bracket, adding a new coat of paint and new mesh and this will look awesome: real JDM for your Skyline (this was my original plan until I found it was for S1), no copy bullshit here. I live in Japan, so I will wear the cost of postage to make this easier for the buyer, but if customs wants any tax on it or anything of that nature, that will be the resonsibility of the buyer. Price is AUD$150 to be transfered to my aussi bank account please email to [email protected], as I check that more often that I do here. thanks

cool good to know

Im just wondering, what are felt like steering wheels like on your hands? I mean that type of wheel which looks very race-oriented, which i believe has the felt (or similar) covering for grip, and probably meant to be used with gloves. heres a link if you dont know what i mean http://www.kts-web.com/product/interior/hd.html So, would this hurt my hands if i used it without gloves? or will it be fine?

I found in another post something about the weathering strip at the base of the rear windscreen, so Im gunna check that out today. Hope thats it, cause otherwise i got no idea...

Pretty much, the boot was leaking at both the left and right sides, so I took the time, spent the money and resealed the rear lights even going so far as to use the Nissan sealant at surprising expense. Well, it rained again, and the boot still gets water leaking in it. Its not coming from the lights, but I suspect its leaking in through the seal of the rear quater panel and the lip of the boot at the top: around that area. So, has anyone else had a similar problem? What was it? How did you fix it? thanks

I did this today and all i can say is, what a biatch of a job. Not so complex but gets messy. The trick with getting out the tail lamp unit is to firstly try to scoop out as much sealant with a flathead screwdriver as you can while its in there. Also it helps if you heat it or have it in direct sunlight. have lots of cloths ready and plenty of solvent. Also be very careful when cleaning the old sealent off the rear lights when its off the car. I had it lens facing down on a clean bit of cardboard, but it turned out that while cleaning off the gunk, little bits of dirt dropped down on the cardboard and as its moving aroud a bit i found i completely scratchew dup one of the lights and panel!! Now i gotta go online and buy a new one. grrr

thanks, ill check out the tail lights

the drivers side end of my boot is leaking every time it rains. The big rubber seal on which the boot lid would sit seems fine and i dont believe there is any water in the tail lights. Anyone know where the leak is coming from? ideas? thanks

I agree with the induction note, nothing wrong with a little audio, tho for the next points, 1, don't live in a hot country and in the interests of good throttle response, keeping things as close to Nissan spec as possible should make for comfortable driving. I havent really felt power loss yet and that includes while drifting, so i think the humble SMIC has some undeserved flack. Nothing wrong with big FMIC for high power applications, but this aint that. and 2, not planning to get a bigger turbo at this stage, so a $40 intercooler upgrade sounds just about right to me. Heres a related question, is it a waste of money to hook up a FCD with only exhaust and inlet modifications, and boost of around 7-9psi? I remember getting fuel cut year ago on my CA18 Silvia and that sucked.

ok thanks helpful people, smart arses, well you know what your good for. Im spending most of the budget on non-engine modifications which is why im keeping it simple. BTW, what is R&R? Im guessing it aint rest and relaxation

Four simple questions about boosting a RB25DET from a R33. 1, What is standard boost? 2, What is the maximum boost that the stock turbos can handle? (or what boost level should i keep it under) 3, If I have a pod filter, slightly bigger SMIC and turbo back exhaust with sports catalyser, what boost will it naturally creap up to? 4, Whats the typical bog standard R33 rwKw figure and what might it be with the mods from question 3? Thanks all

Great, thanks Kiwi, thats exactly what I was after

Does anyone know what the thickness of the 34 is? (and 33?) Is there much difference in size? etc I can see the R33 has 15 rows while the 34 has 18, so im also wondering about thickness. lastly, can both intercoolers be directly interchanged? I know people will just tell me to get a FMIC, but I aint. thanks

In the interests of clearing space in my spare room Ive decided to lower the price to $100 Dont miss out! mail me now

Project Mu D1 Spec rear brake pads for ECR33 skyline for sale. I bought these a few weeks ago and found out that they are a bit too noisy for me (I guess im not as hardcore as I thought) so Ive since downgraded to different pads. They were on the car for a week and barely driven in that time, so they are barely worn down at all. The 11mm of pad material left confirms this. Ignore the fact that alot of the paint is gone, this happened when i cleaned them up with brake cleaner. Back to the pads, there was a noticable increase in braking force due to their high friction coefficient (i had standard rear pads beforehand) at this is dispite them being rear pads so they are quite capable products from a well respected manufacturer. For more info on the pads, check out http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/products/pad_d1spec.php Im offereing these for $120 and that includes FREE DELIVERY email (no PM please, I might miss it) to [email protected]

Thanks. I have a R33 and need to do shaken inspection next month (im in tokyo) and this is something many cars fail from. Although i cant adjust them meself (need very specific setting that only a machine can set) its interesting to finally know how its done

great, thanks for the responeses all

OK, so my question is, What difference did you see from JUST adding an aftermarket intercooler? Boost increase? power increase? lag increase? better/worse drivability? etc? I have a 33 with basic mods but standard boost and while im not planning to go all out on power (spending the money on suspension and other instead) I did wonder if there would be much benifit alone from just wacking on a FMIC. I know there is alot of BS and lack of knowledge about this stuff, so actual experiences and info please : ) thanks all

Very easy to make me happy: give me a cheap and easy drift button. Or STFU

Elite Racing - The normal drift button from stores isnt available for Skylines otherwise I would snap it up, the tape fix is just a bit too povo for any kind of perminant solution and the Cusco part is ugly. So yeah, still looking for a solution