ausdrift

Still got em

Honestly the handling would probably feel a bit off as the front would be soft and the rear, in comparison, firm. So you would probably get oversteer tendances. You could fit them, for sure and match the height to the stock fronts if you wanted to. If you have aftermarket springs/shocks now then they would be firmer already, so fitting these shouldn't upset things so much... Also, I don't see anything wrong with mismatched coilovers, as long as they complement each other and/or are set up so it works.

Good (enough) news!

KTS rear coilovers for R33 GTS-T I've upgraded the coilovers on my R33 so I no longer need these rears. So, its a pair of rear coilovers made by KTS in Japan and since bringing the car to Australia I swapped out the springs to make it a little more suited to the pothole spec roads we have here. The springs are therefore changed from 7 down to 5kg/mm which is still firm and sporty but not bone jarring like they were before. Also I have changed the bottom mounts out to polyurethane ones from Driftworks in the UK to eliminate any uncertainty in the softer rubber mounts. Pick up east side of Melbourne, $150 Pm me

Sucks to hear, hope you get it back

Wanted to drive in this one but the car wasn't ready. Should make it out to watch and maybe photo too. Should be a good day

Anti roll bar upgrade, especially to adjustable ones, are great bang for buck. They help your suspension do the job its designed for, rather than fighting extra lateral force. The great thing is that they firm up cornering without the harshness that hard spring rates would give for a similar effect. Id suggest coilovers first, then new sway bars and front and rear tower bracing bars: will transform the handling

Have a look: steel looks just like steel

Yep, let the fun begin. Aim to remove the hicas and replace with a canceller kit so that you get rid of the 4wheel steering. Prepare for hell getting the ball joints out. This is a mod for down the track though

Got one

Still looking folks

Still looking

This same lens was my go-to when I used to create articles for HPI magazine and others back in the day. Its perfect for 'normal' shots (i.e. not long distance zoom, you would need a different lens for that stuff) etc and the build quality gives great, crisp photos. Good luck with the sale

WTB: Brake master cylinder cap R33 gts-t (or S14?) Long shot, but does anyone have a brake master cylinder cap for an R33 gts-t laying around they can sell me on the cheap? I believe an S14 one should fit too (marked Tokiko, though perhaps other brands are ok too?) Thanks

Great, thanks everyone there are some good ideas there. I didn't notice that big groove on the inner side of the housing, so perhaps even something like that is making the difference. The leaking is almost nothing, but as I would need to top up 100ml every 40kms or so I think i'll give it another shot to fix. I wasn't able to find anything on youtube either, so this is a good help. And I wish the knock sensor was only unplugged, but I never undid it and the all the elec clips lock in quite firmly.

Damaged alluminium housing for water pipe! HELP! It still leaks, how to fix this? Here is the problem. Rather than on the R33 this time, this one is on the wife's car, an E46 BMW 3 Series. Long story short I, for reliability, decided to replace the whole cooling system of hoses, plastic pipes, radiator etc (BMW use shitty plastic which fails over time).One of the plastic heater pipes goes into an aluminium housing into the engine and thanks to 13 years of heat cycles it was firmly stuck in and infact sheared when I finally removed the pipe. Despite being as careful as I could the housing was inevitably damaged when I removed the fused-in remaining plastic and this is a major problem as the new pipe and 2 O-rings needs a perfect fit otherwise it leaks. Naturally this is all under the intake manifold system which to remove and refit takes between 1/2 to 1 Days work. I've now attempted to fix it 3 times and am getting quite tired of doing this. Each time it will still end up slowly leaking and usually in the process will swell the o-ring and I need to purchase new ones for stupid prices at BMW. Here is what I've attempted as a fix. 1 - Installed new pipe with some windscreen silicon jammed in between the 2 O-rings. (leaked) 2 - Cleaned area and gave a very light sand to smooth the housing, new O-rings and refit. (leaked) 3 - Cleaned up area, new O-rings and used a stack of RTV silicon gasket (leaks, but less) Which this most recent fix has it leaking the least, its still not a permanent fix due to its very slow propensity to leak. I don't want to have to buy a new timing case panel (which incorporates the housing) as even through my cheap online place, its around $500! A used one will no doubt have the same damage, plus doing this is more major engine work which I don't have energy for. So, my question to you all; What PROVEN methods do you have for this situation? What have you done that has worked? I know it happens that people can damage the water pump surface etc when trying to remove, eg, thermostat, water pump etc so surely there is some wisdom out there. What is a reliable fix? Thanks! Oh, as a bonus, an error code has just come up indicating the knock sensor is faulty, so that's gotta be swapped too. Where is that, you ask? Its that cable and bolt to the left of the BMW stamp in the photo below. So I have to take who whole inlet system off agaaaaaaaaain anyway *sigh*.

I had a judder issue which would only happen and mid-high speeds and when braking, I believe. I was sure it was suspension based and looked at everything. Turns out it was the LH tyre which was apparently no longer round and was causing it. New front tyres and problem was fixed

OK great, thanks for that.

can you try the pic again?

OK, so to clarify, S1 and S2 wont fit as the headlights are different (makes sense) And S2 Gts-t and S2 GTR are interchangeable or not?

Nothing major. I think I just bent the connector end piece 90 degrees and maybe cut a little bit off as Nissan's fits flat (I think). Still works no problems.

What Grill fits R33 gtst S2? GTR grill? etc Hi All, I have a R33 GTS-T Series 2 and want to find out my options for a front grill, so a couple of questions. - Does an R33 GTR grill fit as a straight swap? - I assume anything that says "fits R33 series 1" will not fit the series 2? or can it be massaged in? - Anything else? Thanks

Really? I bought a gps tracker for $50 then got a pre paid sim for it and have much the same result, fingers crossed i dont need it though

I changed the fuel pump and initially had trouble getting the rubber ring back on (bought a new one). Second time around I installed it correctly and it went on smooth. That said, getting back to the top of the tank and inspecting may be the smart option. And with the 1000s of pics of my car, you'd think Id have more of the bracing... but here goes

I'm in!