ausdrift

Just fitted a Walbro 255l/m pump and can confirm that it is very quiet; basically I cant hear it

This all sounds as dodgy as I was expecting. If there are clear rules/guidelines set out by VicRoads for what needs to be done and how, then I don't see how workshops can have the power to fail dubious things, as you should be able to wave the document in their face and argue it. I understand the point about how its the workshop taking the risk of passing off a car as safe, but surly the threat of people reporting their shop to vicroads for going outside their rules would be a risk for them too. But that's life, I guess

Im out near Camberwell way. And your saying unlikely to get a RWC for under $500? How? I know the inspection fee would be, lets say, $150 but from looking at the Vic roads document it seems like a well kept car should have little to pick up on. Is it that your average person doesn't keep their car fastidiously roadworthy (like myself) or are there things people typically neglect, or that mechanics pick on?

Yeah I hope to get a car with one, but ive heard people will turn around and say "sure it comes with RWC, or without for $500 less" so obviously im going to take the lesser option (unless there are obvious defects). I actually found a PDF from vic roads which goes into details of what needs to be in what condition, but I can expect that mechanics, like you say, are out to make a buck so im wondering what are the first things they will try on

Alrighty, so Wifey is looking to buy her first car soon and that means, no doubt, having to organize a RWC for it. As neither of us have done this before in Vic, Im still getting my head around the processes and requirements. Like I believe that the seller is meant to provide it, but in reality most times they wont. Anyway, apart from basic obvious things to do with the condition of the car, like having proper tyres, no leaks, seat belts working etc etc, my question is this... What less obvious things will mechanics often pick up on and try get you to repair when doing a RWC? And what are the more dodgy claims they will try to add to the fix-it list? Thanks

yep, good fun and a nice road and destination

Good write up, love seeing others get in and have a go

I tried Hadoogle, nothing worked

Simple question, has anyone installed R34 gtst or GTR REAR seats into an R33? Do they fit? straight in or need any modifications? Cheers

right. And with soldering the pump wires together for in the tank, I assume you would need chemical proof heat shrink or similar. Anyone know where to get this?

I am looking at fitting a universal fuel pump, eg walbro 255 to my R33 and I had a couple of questions on the wiring of it. 1, This may be a bit stupid, but from pics etc it seems like the wires and terminals are directly submerged in the tank with the fuel. How does this not ignite or pose an explosion risk? 2, I read that its a good idea to hook up a relay to get the juice from the battery direct. Its been about 10 years since I last did one of there, does anyone have a tutorial/diagram/link to video etc that explains it and what to use (or can you tell me now)? Thanks all

Yeah, I had considered sound-deadening above the tank if it was a bit noisy, figuring that should help if it was too noisy

Anyone using bosch top feeds? And what other brand, apart from IDs would you say are the best/smoothest etc ?

Cool. I think walbro or denso might be the way to go. Anyone know what kinda max power the 265/255 Lph etc can handle?

And whats the deal with fuel pressure regulators? Why/when is this needed?

ok good start. And that is a great article on trak life

yeah, I wouldn't want to have whats in that vid

Im looking at getting upgraded injectors for my r33 gts-t and it looks like ill need top feed ones and im going with id brand, either 720? Or 850s. Thing is i dont know much about fuel rails and injector installs. Ill get a shop to fit, but can someone explain a bit about whats needed, sizes and how it fits together? I hear id need short version injectors for rb25det etc... And with a fuel rail, id buy the rail, but does that just bolt on generally, to the oem hoses and parts etc? Do i need to buy additional parts, etc? Thanks

I'm looking to upgrade to something bigger in-tank, but the thought of the noise is a bit off putting. The car is an R33 GTS-T and would be making probably 200-250kw in the near future. So, very simply, what brand/model of upgraded fuel pump did you find to be acceptably quiet? And conversely, what pumps did you get that were excessively noisy? Begin!

Sold

still for sale

Go an old Japan made exhaust for an ECR33 GTS-T hanging around that I want to get rid of. Make no mistake, its old, loud, rusty and I got an EPA notice sent out because of it (hence why its no longer on the car). It also has a 6cm gash where the mid muffler connects to the end pipe leading to the cat. I tried smearing exhaust repair putty on it but it didn't do much, so yep, it leaks. This exhaust is really only suited to someone who may want to weld it up and repair it, or just run on a missile drift car or something like that. You've Been warned. $50 obo email [email protected] If it doesn't sell ill probably cut it into bits and throw it out.

But Im pretty sure that top feeds are going to lose the sleeper feel to my engine bay, no?

Huh. Anyone else have similar issues?

KO cool. Im leaning towards bigger ones now, and also away from Nismos just because of the cost