ausdrift

I'm starting to put plans together to up the power in my R33 gtst. It has/will have a bunch or normal mods - bigger turbo, FMIC, boost controller, full exhaust, nismo fuel pump, Power FC etc. The thing Im unsure about is that of fuel injectors. I had planned to go Nismo 555 as a step up from standard. I'm not planning to chase high power with my car, I'm just planning to make the most of my mods and get it tuned so its comfortable and reliable as my daily, but still has the power that these mods allow. That said, I'm wondering what life would be like getting the next size up injectors; 740s? What's the difference in Nismo 555 vs 740? For standard fitment, are they side or top feed? and Is a fuel pressure regulator something I would need in my modifications too, or is it unnecessary?

great vid Tony, love the drone shots

Ok, here we go. Apologies for the lack of links. My spastic browser wont let me even copy and paste these links, let alone add as a proper link so I'm going to have to painfully type them in below. Simply cut and paste back into your browser to load. Vids R34 on back course Two car battle S14 Vs S13 PHOTOS http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/jblackman999/library/DECA%20SAU%20july%202015?sort=2&page=1 Was a good day out and I had a great vantage point to take pics from all morning. Next time I might even get the R33 out there myself; a well organized event and it looked like fun

Okeedokee

I can help out too for the AM and PM too, if necessary. Haven't done this before; Wayne, can you PM me anything I need to know/bring etc? Thanks

Thanks colourclassic, looks like powerFC is top of my list

ok thanks Stao, will keep in mind

Emailed Stao after getting and fitting the turbo and never got a reply. I also think its best to get some real world information before approaching a tuner, hence asking for all your opinions. And on that, do we think that Power FC is the best/ a good approach for tuning an R33 to be a reliable street car (with all the various needs and functions of a street car; cold start etc etc) or are there other popular brands/models to consider?

So Status, Power FC would be the best for an R33? As its a street car keeping everything working smoothly for day to day use would be my priority, with a good, safe tune being a very close second. I knew that R33s required a different approach with nistune, but if its going to be an unreliable solution, then sure, best to avoid. The turbo has the OEM wastegate still on it and I recon, with what people are saying, I'm going to keep it at stock boost. Damn, my shopping list for parts is growing tho. Ahh, cars....

Ok, before peoples panties get twisted into oblivion, hear me out. The Hypergear turbo thread currently has 10953 REPLIES and 548 pages and so its a bit much to ask for me to read through them all to find my answer. It would take weeks. Here it goes. I have a Rb25det R33 with FMIC, oil cooler, full exhaust and a new highflow Hypergear turbo. I'm later planning to get fuel pump, Z32 AFM and nistune upgrades, but until then I'll be driving it around as is. Im currently on standard boost as Im not sure what's safe to run (and yes, for best results I should take it to a dyno, I know). My very simple questions for those who have trodden the same path is, what boost can I run this combo of parts SAFELY before I run out of air and or fuel and damage my engine? Help from those who have done this is much appreciated. Thanks

For anyone reading this Ive done a fair amount of work to the car and its solved it. Specifically I got a turbo high flow and at the same time replaced pretty much all gaskets, studs, nuts etc from the block to the down pipe and the problem is gone. Not really to chase this problem, but it worked out anyway. Not much help in diagnosing it therefore, but looks like it was something there. possibly the dump to downpipe as I wonder how tight it was done up.

Sounds good. If you were to buy new, just keep in mind the resellers you buy from will probably not actually stock them, rather they will order from the manufacturer, then ship to you. So my intercooler I called and ordered on day one, but it only just made it to the hotel in time before I came back home (8 day trip?) so I almost lost out. Upgarage etc web pages are great in that they will ship fairly fast to you from whatever shop in japan has that item, but if you haven't been in person before, go out to the nearest one anyway, its grat to just wonder round them.

if you wanna ogle parts, your super Autobacs type stores are a time waste, as mentioned they only really do accessories these days; cleaners,rims, car audio etc. For parts your up garages and Autobacs secohan (second hand) will at least have actual performance parts in them, even if they are used. People buy through the net or their tuner these days. In fact last trip I got a Blitz intercooler sent to my hotel COD and took it back on the plane with me. Saved about half the aus price, but took planning

I ended up filing 4 of the manifold holes out about 1mm each until the new gasket lined up. It then pretty much slid back onto the head; problem solved

Some good news, just inspected the manifold then and the surface itself is actually quite level, with only minor variations. Nissans service manual gives a tolerance of 0.3mm and at a guess Id say its pretty close. I did the trick like in the photo above of lining up the new gasket on the manifold face and I could see that there was a slight unevenness in either the 3rd or 4th outlet. My new plan will be to file a little from both 3 and 4 and that should give enough clearance to get it back on. Easy. I hope.

I have the Nissan gasket as was told to not waste money on anything else. Im going to go out soon and check how level it is. Hopefully I can get away with massaging the appropriate holes as I don't feel its horribly warped. I as able to get it half on, but no further so that's a start, and I don't have time or energy to find a place to get it faced.

As mentioned, I've removed it to fit new studs to the block as part of a turbo overhaul. The old studs came out ok, the manifold was a bitch to prise off the block, but once I broke through the stuck-on gasket, it came off. I've installed new studs and now Im finding it impossible to get the manifold back on. There is no reason why it should be such trouble; there are 12 holes and 12 studs, it appears to line up ok, but it just wont push all the way on. Ive tried 'persuading' it with a hammer, but if I tap one end in, the other moves out, and vies-versa, and tapping the middle gets me nowhere too. How did you get yours back on? any tips/advise? Thanks

Good chance I would have participated had the car been thrash-ready. I'll be lucky if I can make it down to spectate...

I have a drivers side one, still looking for passenger side. PM if you have one

KTS coilovers (bought in Japan). Mid range brand

Cool. Anywhere else to consider?

So I did a dumb thing when changing springs on a coilover a while back and am considering to finally get it fixed. I managed to snap clean the adjusting dowel at the top where you change hard/soft. Now it just spins and clicks, but doesn't make any adjustments. Is there a coilover rebuild specialist that you can recommended in Melbourne (east is better) who may be able to fix something like this?

The wheel deal does alignments? There is nothing on their web page about that. Great if they do, a that's where I was planning to get tyres from...

PM sent

With the Mrs in the passenger seat it still happens, so more like a 40kg increase, so I would assume, not enough to be a factor. I'm quite sure it would be hitting the underside due to the sound it makes, plus there is a fair amount of rubbing marks and there is even a small hole worn there. The spring rates were only 1 or 2 softer than what it came with, as I read that any more than that isn't gunna work. I don't want to change them back to the hard springs as Melbournes roads aren't really built for driving on. Anything I may have missed?