harambe34

Thanks for your reply, Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!

Oops my bad, here you go .

I have two questions here, The first is regarding the harness attached to the power window and central locking control on the drivers door. I can't understand why the previous owner would join these wires together on the harness and why they did such a shit job. There was a wire with 10v hanging in the open un insulated. The OEM remote control works just fine The second is regarding the blue, green wire attached to what I believe is the lock actuator? These were running to the old immobiliser connected to the 'UNLOCK - COM' and 'LOCK - COM' wires. I imagine COM means communication and they just send a signal to the immobiliser whether the car is locked/unlocked? IMG_9032.HEIC IMG_9037.HEIC IMG_9038.HEIC IMG_9041.HEIC

Makes sense, will do mate. Thanks for the advice!

Thanks Duncan, I have probably turned it lock to lock more like 200 times now over the course of a few hours 😅 When should I draw the line and take it to a shop?

Hey guys, I am trying to bleed my power steering system, I mistakenly started the car with the power steering reservoir on its side and it drew air into the system. So far I have had the car on jack stands, turned the wheel lock to lock 20 or so times while topping up the fluid. Started the car for 10 seconds and stopped it numerous times to flush the pump and it is still foaming/ bubbling out the top. I have been waiting for the foaming to subside before priming it again by means of turning the wheels or starting the engine. I have repeated this maybe 10 times and it is still foaming over when I stop the engine. I can hear the fluid swishing and gurgling around when i turn the wheels. Has anyone got any advice? I am fairly certain there are no leaks as the level has always stayed constant... let me know what you think before I give up and take it to a shop.

Thanks mate, I ended up sorting it out.

Thanks guys, it's all hooked up now

Hey guys. Just after confirmation whether the water feed to the turbo comes from the engine block or from the hose behind the engine?

Hey guys, pulled my turbo off a few months ago for a highflow and i'm only now getting around to reinstalling it. I have a new braided line set up and just wanted to double check I have everything in the correct position before starting the car. Cheers legends Top of turbo - oil feed Bottom of turbo - oil drain Drivers side of turbo- Water feed from back of block Passenger side of turbo - Water drain to block

Hey mate just seeing if anyone can spot any issues with my set up before I install it. And looking for a review on the catch can but another person posted it

Hey guys, I am trying to figure out the plumbing on my vented catch can. I'll be honest it was a bit of a spontaneous purchase and I didn't think it through properly and should have bought a different one but oh well. My plan is to run an an12 barb on top where the vent to atmosphere filter used to be, and return that air to my inlet before the turbo. I'll block one of the two inlets off and run a line from my rocker cover to catch can. Also it doesn't seem like there is too many baffles inside? It's hard to see... has anyone had any experiences with these Raceworks catch cans?

I've found some Deatchwerks 1000cc injectors and Raceworks 1200cc injectors for $720. Is there such thing as too big with injectors? Will it still idle and drive properly?

I considered this but I thought for future proofing I should go the ATR43 with larger intake, even with the extra hassle to install it. I can always change the injectors out later

Do you have any issues with lag?

Hey guys, just after some feedback on these modifications. I am still in the planning stages for my build, I am aiming for 250-270kw in my 98 R34 GTT with 90,000km on it. -Hypergear ATR43 0.63 rear housing internally gated with bush bearing -340L/H fuel pump -750cc injectors -Spitfire coilpacks -3" turbo back exhaust/ hi flow cat -3" intake pipe -Nistune ECU -Will the 0.63 rear housing be too small? -Is it worth the extra $400 for a ball bearing over a journal bearing ? I'd rather put the money towards a custom intake/ exhaust Thanks legends

How's the Bitcoin burst going now?