Sheriff Wan

Hey mate, Any chance I could buy the dash vents? PM me is interested. Cheers,

Dont suppose anybody know anything for Vic? Been googling so much my fingers hurt. I cant find anything around engine building / maintanence - only basic courses i.e. oil change... Cheers,

+2 for overfilling. Ive had redline for 3 years now and its been magic. I doubt the fluid would cause an issue like that. my 2 cents...

Congrats mate. Perfect example of how a 34GTR should be. Im sure you will giggle like a school kid everytime you get in it.

^^ What he said... As if you wouldnt take the 34! But would suggest driving them both (obviously waiting for the 370) this way you can see which you like better. I have driven a 34 and all I can say is wow My 2 cents

Errr - I dont think this is genuine... See real OMP steering wheel here: http://www.ompracing.it/detail.html?productcode=CORSICA# It should have the OMP stamp on the bottom spoke... Also the stitching around the inside is not visible... Correct me if im wrong please - If it is a different model please let us all know. If not - why are you selling it as a "real" OMP wheel?

Got any pics?

If your power steering fluid is ok it could be your speedo. Does your steering go heavy when the light comes on? The HICAS feeds off what speed you are doing - if it gets a dodgy reading it doesnt work, odds on its just the speedo / cable that needs looking at. I dont think the HICAS ever had an ECU in the boot... correct me if I'm wrong

If it were me I'd be starting ground up. Get a list of everything you know is in the car. Then get a list of things you dont know about i.e. ECU etc etc It will be easier to get help if you know whats what - as opposed to guessing. But I would be taking it to your mechanic as it doesnt sound fuel related more electronics. My 2 cents...

Wasn't aware we had so many auto lovers - I mean sorry clutchless manuals!!! I can see it now "Wow this car feels great just put it in D and it will do the rest" Please - the GTR is nothing like the old ones i.e. group A race cars in street trim - I get what they were trying to do with the R35 and they succeded, however... I would be taking a 996 GT2 - If its good enough for Jim Richards its good enough for me!

Where did you bring it from...

Engine and box gone or did the sale fall through?

Holy hell... Yeah fit the non turbo engine - should be good for around 25 rwkw - just enough so you can hurt yourself or anyone around you!

Have you tried removing your air con belt to rule that pulley out? I would start there... takes 5 seconds, then move on to the next thing

Sorry should have included that! Rego is until Nov 09 (Just paid) and k's are ~110 Cheers,

Good evening all, It is with a sad face that I write this, the time has come to let go of my beloved. I have been the first owner in Australia for 4 years. Over the time I have slowly built the car to be a nice neat daily that handles great and goes just as good. Its making 168rwkw but with the HKS turbo it feels great and is very responsive. If your feeling adventurous all it needs is a z32, injectors and 2-3 pounds more boost with a tune up to see +200rwkw I haven't gone crazy on mods as I wanted it to be bullet proof and to its credit it has not given me any dramas for 4 years! Car is a 1989 model M spec has the usual paint dings you would expect of an 89 model but overall in good condition. List of mods as follows: - Splitfire coil packs - Koni Shocks (Purchased new) - Apexi Srings - HKS 2530 Ball Bearing Turbo Braided oil line (0.8Bar) - Apexi Boost Gauge - Apexi Pen Turbo Timer - GTR Bonnet - 3” Turbo Back Exhaust - DBA Slotted rotors & RB 74 Pads (Will provide an additional set of pads aswell) - Tuned ECU - Pod filter - Front Mount Intercooler - Front & Rear Sway Bars - Fuel Pump (600hp) - MP3 Sony Stereo - JL Front Speakers - JL 6x9 Rear Speakers - Xplode Head Unit - 17” Drifteks – Mint condition - 3 Point Alarm with central locking - Dyno Graphs attached to support Rwkw Serviced with Motul 300V Chrono (Fully Synthetic) every 4,000 kms religiously – I’m not just saying it I’ll show you the bottles! $99 for 4 litres You can get me anytime on the mobile - 0422 206 869 - Steve I am located in Melbourne S.E Suburbs Roadworthy can be agreed upon with purchasor PRICE: Looking for around $11,900 feel free to make an offer and come have a look. I will put more pics up of the engine bay, interior and outside when I have some time. Cheers,

^^ Albeit at a cost though...

Just to add to that I have been told the car will need to pass an emissions test - Quote was $1,200 to $1,400! Oh dear...

Ok, So I have chatted with VicRoads as follows; You need to obtain approval from one of their VASS (Vehicle Assessment Signatory Scheme) engineers. They have a list available from the VicRoads website. I contacted one of them and they said they go over the whole car and identify any areas of concern i.e. mounting points etc etc to check that the conversion is "acceptable" At a cost of $880 + GST ($968) they will provide you with their approval certificate. Provided your car passes this test you CAN register the vehicle as per normal. Just an update - I'll keep fishing for a better price yet I don't think I'll find to much cheaper.

Thanks for the responses gents - keep the coming. What if I obtained an engineers certificate? Could the car be registered on that basis? Or Perhaps I could tell them its an RB25DET? they wouldn't be able to tell that its the 3l bottom end... Hmm - I may give them a call and find out what the go is. I'll report back for all those interested. Thanks again, and if you have any other helpful info I'd love to hear it. Cheers,

Evening all, I have a 32 GTSt that i'll be building a 30 for and would like some advice on how to satisfy VicRoads and Insurance etc etc. Just wondering what anyone has done to get their car "legal" with an RB30. As the 30 wasnt an option from standard just looking for some past experiences as to what problems you may have run into and how you got around them. Thanks all - Looking forward to the dirty 30!

Thanks Duncan, Dos anybody know if the Laurel bearing is the same as an R32 GTSt? Cheers

Hey guys, I have contacted many places trying to get a centre bearing for my R32 GTSt as it is getting noisy There is a post on here (Cant find the link) stating the following part numbers: Drive Pro CB56 DJCB 26. 5860 However when I checked with the bearing place they said it was for a Nissan Laurel (NZ) model??? Are these the correct part numbers or are the Laurels compatible with R32's? Anyone able to shed some light here? I have found that part # for $92 If anyone knows where to get one in VIC cheaper please let me know Cheers,

Gentlemen are we not missing the point: An entry level BMW or Merc is almost as bad as owning a non turbo line... Buying a base model 318i and calling it a luxury BMW or a C180 or whatever you settle on, these are bottom of the line "luxury" cars. The engines are tiny thats why the price is affordable. I'll tell you why the people in Toorak/Malvern etc will look at you funny... because when he drives past you in his new SL500 or BMW 760 he will still think the same whether your in a skyline or a 318i My 2 cents... if your going to do it, do it right

Err I may be able to shed some light here as this is my job at one of the major banks (Shall remain nameless) Firstly - Credit rating is fine otherwise the NAB would have either not given you the loan or told you about the adversity... Secondly - he has asked you to close the credit card for serviceability reasons, for example our policy dictates that a credit card with a limit of $x will be taken at 3% i.e. $5,000 limit = monthly repayment of $150... So your expenses might be able to handle the loan on the provision that your credit card is paid out and no longer a debt - does that make sense? I could almost guarantee they wont check that you have closed the card, they will only find out if you go for further finance. This is a condition we set to cover ourselves... Don't hold me to any of this as always its an opinion, albeit a well informed one Good luck with the purchase mate.