Sheriff Wan

It really depends on the rest of the motor... If you just have a standard RB30 bottom end - then uprated springs wouldn't do much good. If you had a fully balanced bottom end and a wanted to spin the thing to 8,000 then springs are a must.

^^ wlspn Maybe read..... He's running a HKS GT-RS turbo. Good try though. Provided your changing it regulalry enough the oil your using will be fine. Dale FZ1 summed it up perfectly.

Hey good idea. I use Excel quite a bit - so i knocked up one of the ones Ash was talking about where you tick the box and it adds/removes the item, Feel free to use this one if its easier & If it can be uploaded into SAU go for it - if not - don't worr about it I know its not a common one but I'll post up my RB25 with HKS 2530 when I get the new Dyno sheet. Cheers, Disregard the numbers - they are all made up! SAU_Turbo_Chart.xls

You have PM

Cant help but chime in here... - The guy with the orange car - how can you comment about the quality of paint on your car so long after the job when you havent even had the cut and polish more than 1 year on? Thats just cementing the fact you dont care correctly for your paint work - this is not Vu's work its your doing mate. Im busy too - yet I managed to listen... You contribute nothing. I have had my car resprayed and a front bar fitted by Vu - the quality of work was exactly what I paid for. I think he did an amazing job for the price - this has been echoed by Damian at Final inspection whos jaw almost hit the ground when he heard how cheap it was. Also from everyone who sees my car think its awesome many months later. Lastly to the idiots who purchase cheap kits - your the same people who buy eBay turbos & manifolds etc then blame the tuners because they don't work! Vu - you do good work mate, it's dissapointing to see keyboard warriors come on here and comment, when all of the issues could have been solved by them not being lazy.

Just found this - Sorry to dig up: http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/man...t&total=190 Says Approx 0.8v when ign on & between 0.8v - 1.5v at idle. Where did you get 0.5v from?

Wow - that could be the dumbest thing you could have done... Hmmm - Cars not boosting, potentially its the turbo wheel - Think i'll fire it up and rev it till it works... Thats a sure fire way to spend >$5k on a trip home from work...

I'd be starting with a tune... The Mines ecu would be a guess at best. Your better off getting a tune specific to your car, also just to make sure its running right.

34's dont run the solenoid like 33's AFAIK The 34's I have driven have only ever boosted to about .6 max - with no sign of a switch from 5-7psi...

Yeah - I would take it if it was my first time here.... Check the joined date - 2004... I have been a on SAU for just a while. Anyways - i think this thread has run its course, I got what I came for thanks. Ash - You can lock this up.

Or I could have been wondering why there was a plug that was not connected and why the car was not feeling normal.... Its pretty damn obvious when your under the bonnet and pull the throttle cable... Got news for you lachlnw - this is a forum - believe it or not people use it to learn, others not naming names use it to express to the rest of us how much of a knob they are I'll let the people decide which category you fall into.

Ahh thanks very much. However - should it be turning on and off at just over idle - say 700rpm? I thought VCT came on a tiny bit later like 1,500?

Hi All, Just looking for some help - engine is an RB25DET Series II... I noticed tonight that when I open the throttle I get a click like a blown fuse from this thing... Problem is I don't know what it is or what it does. It is situated at the front of the engine on the intake side right next to the thermostat. Hoping you can shed some light here are the pics: Anybody know about it? Thanks,

That graph looks like its running a standard ECU - I know its not. But with the dip in power and ramp up again it looks like the standard solenoid going from 5 to 7psi..... How does the car make boost? i.e. does it just ramp straight up to 13psi or does it hit about 9 really fast then climbs to 13? The power curve suggests option 2

From this section of your original post: "Today I pulled the wire off coil 6 and it seems the noise has gone away" The noise would be constant - It wouldn't go away if you pulled coil no 6. Your crank will spin regardless of the coil being attached its one piece, hence the noise should still be there. I would imagine a big end would give up or at least get worse once it lets go, that fact you have driven thousands of k's since indicates the problem is not a big end... Just some fuel for the fire...

I'd be also checking th o2 if you havent already. Mine was up the duff and was causing the car to run rich all the time, hence too much fuel at low rmp/load. Just an idea

Well I passed with flying colours!!! For the record, and reference I had: magnaflow catalytic converter bcpr7e - gapped at 0.8 new ntk o2 sensor so friggen happy right now! Fully legal r32 with rb25!!!

Well I think I fit the bill here... I had an RB20 with HKS 2530, making just shy of 200rwkw so about 270hp not as much as you want but close... I ended up going for an RB25 for 2 reasons, 1 I managed to find a complete running R33 for the conversion and 2 I didnt want to spend $$$ on rebuilding an RB20 or buying parts that wouldn't be of use in the future i.e. injectors Power FC etc The conversion wasn't too troublesome, and the car drives exactly the same now, handling and feel wise. It's just that now even off boost the car makes great power and is much more steetable and requires bugger all revs to keep up with traffic and there is more power everywhere - with a stock rb25 (except the 2530). Depends on what you want, I got tired of having to wait for the 20 to spool up everytime I changed gears below 5,000rpm. It made power delivery very crappy when going from 2nd to 3rd when you didnt want to hit 130kmph! I would see if you can get a ride in a couple of RB20's making that kind of power - should be pretty easy as most of them are up around 200kw. Then go for a drive in a RB25 powered one, you'll see what I mean. My mind was made up when I went for a spin in an RB30 powered 32... Different ball game! I went the 25 as I can make it legal

I wouldn't imagine piston to bore would play as a factor here given it is on all cylinders in the same spot. Potentially, could it have been a problem with lubrication, as in the squirters were not getting to those points in the bore? Or a more unlikely cause could be too many revs while the engine is cold and the pistons have not expanded fully causing the bore wear? Just some ideas... I would speak to the bloke that built it though - how long had the motor been going before the pull down?

I got a magna flow one - they use them for compliance so I figure they are tight. Ash were you running heat range 5 or 6 plugs when you did yours?

Yeah from what I have read an internally rooted cat will cause both CO and HC to go way out... Hence my result. I have picked up and installed a compliance cat, so that should do the trick. I'll regap the plugs to 1.1+ also - can't hurt. Should be getting back to the engineers in the next week or two so i'll let you all know how I get on. Thanks again guys

Thanks for the replies guys - most helpful. I'm getting compliance cat, which should do the trick. Ash - I took it to Enklemen and associates, on your recommendation, they are a great bunch of guys! Keep the suggestions coming, appreciate it.

Hi Guys, Looking for some help here. I have recently installed an RB25DET (96 SII) motor into my R32. It has a front pipe and a cat back exhaust (no dump) and an HKS 2530, the rest of the motor is standard i.e ECU, AFM etc I went to the engineers to get a VASS certificate and part of that was the emissions test - just a basic one at idle. The car failed by quite alot in the following categories: - CO - was at about 4% to 5% | when it should have been <.45% - HC - was at about 800 ppm | when it should have been <250ppm The engineer seemed to think it has no cat! I know it has one as it was complied and registered with the cat thats in there, he also suggested the o2 sensor - which I have replaced. The car was hot when the test was done - drove it to the engineer and basically did the test within 2 mins of arrival... What im looking for is some assistance on passing - I am looking at purchasing a compliance cat and as I said I have replaced the o2 sensor already. Any ideas other than that as to why it would have failed by so much being so close to standard? I wouldn't think a bung o2 sensor would throw emmisions out by that much? Thanks and sorry for the long post...

Hey mate, Welcome - may i suggest a search... The gt3071/3076 would have to be one of the most well covered turbos on SAU

Dont you need to adjust your controller to allow more boost - screw it in or out? As you stated the boost was set to 10 psi when you first had the car - put the boost controller back on = still 10 psi......