groovezog

Hey, thanks dude. Freedom to do whatever one wants to with their own car and build, but personally I don't want anything that's too precious. If I can't beat on it when I feel inspired, what's the point of having a car like this? And if I break something, it's me who's going to be fixing it myself...

Hey, thanks for asking. I ended up using the Nitto crank collar (flat, not spline) with a Nitto oil pump. (Herman from Platinum Racing Products confirmed the Nitto crank collar would work just fine with the Tomei pump, BTW) Combined with oil restrictors in the head, a head drain (to sump), a PRP block brace (lowers the pan around 3/4in for more oil capacity), a baffled oil pan, and a Leask Spec oil sump extension. I get the high oil pressure that RBs like, it holds 9.5 quarts of oil, and I don't have any risk of oil starvation at the track. Launch control works great, and I can hit redline without worries. Car runs great and it's a beast on the track.

Hey, thanks a ton for this. I think that's going to be pretty helpful. I'll dig into my engine bay and maybe unravel this wire loom to see if I can trace it back to the fuse box or something. Thanks again. Oh, this is pretty helpful. I had found these on the site, but they were all sized-down and pixellated so I couldn't read anything. Thanks for these high-resolution images.

Hey thanks for checking. Could you snap a photo of where your wires go? Even a general idea might help. This isn't actually a photo of my car. I'm trying to find the wires and a general idea of where they lead.

Thanks for that. I'll try to unravel the loom coming from the AC relay (under the bonnet, right?) and see if can find a cut wire. It would still help if someone had a photo or something though. I've studied some wiring diagrams, like the one attached, but it doesn't show wire colors or how they route in the engine bay.

It's summer here in the USA and I've been working on getting the air conditioning working in my 1991 Skyline GT-R. My car had a bunch of wiring stripped when I got it as a shell, but I've managed to get just about everything back together, and I've fixed all the climate control codes. It's no longer throwing any codes. The last thing (hopefully) that I can't figure out is where the wires lead from the AC drier/receiver pressure switch. I believe the two wires are green and light green, but I can't find those on my car's harness anywhere. My question is: Where do these two wires terminate exactly? If someone could trace them to a fuse box, relay box, or where they connect to a sub-harness, that would be extremely helpful. Also, could anyone confirm that they are always two green wires, and were never other colors? Thanks for any help that can be offered.

Quick update for future searchers: The RB26 plugs (11021AA) did not work for my RB30 block. My RB30 has threaded holes, and the RB26 plugs are pressed in for a compression seal. I was able to order the correct threaded plugs from Platinum Racing Products. Turns out my machinist had a few laying around as well though.

Thanks so much! I appreciate the help. I've ordered the part from Terra Firma. Part number 11021AA

That helps. Thanks. Yeah, looks like it's an oil passage, and the block was cleaned before being built. The one under the oil filter housing: Is that accessible from the outside, or only by taking the sump off? I've got a PRP prepped block and it came with the PRP block brace/AWD adaptor already installed... Thanks for the help! I'd guess that's hammered in since there's slot or hex key to pull it out... Hmm. Consensus seems that I can just measure the threads and plug it with a grub screw of some sort, eh? Thanks guys. I appreciate the help.

Nothing that I could find. I scoured them pretty good before asking.

I'm putting together my RB30/26 build. What's supposed to go in this hole, and where do I find it? Looks like an oil orifice or something. I've searched a bit, and can't find it in the manual. A part number would help immensely. Also wondering if I can pull that part off an RB26 block.

Chill, dude. You seem to make a lot of false assumptions about my build and have some idea that I'm only going to hold the engine at redline and hit anti-lag in a parking lot with the sole intention of shooting flames, while doing no maintenance to the car or something. I've built this car ground-up, from a shell, for racing and it's held up incredibly well. I'd like to setup anti-lag (as I've already done with my two other cars), and know that on instances where I hit redline that the oil pump isn't going to shatter. I think that's a pretty reasonable idea to upgrade the oil pump before doing that, no? Anyway, I got in touch with someone at Nitto and they confirmed that their crank collar will work just fine with the Tomei oil pump. I just have to make sure that the backplate opening is large enough.

Because they cost around $1600-$1800 USD. Plus new bearings, and you might as well do seals too. But then at that point, you might as well put in upgraded pistons and rods, which means you'll need the block apart and machined... That's several thousand dollars at that point. So that spirals out of control pretty easily.

I am unable to find anything about a Tomei collar existing. Do you happen to have a link to one?

Excellent. Thanks for that. Totally makes sense, but I've seen that people have problems. See here: I suppose I should simply write Nitto to confirm. As for it being stupid: I had sourced the Tomei pump because its description stated that it would solve the issue with the fragile factory pump. Before I fit the pump, I measured the contact area and it seemed small. So that's why I'm searching and asking around... I don't think there's anything stupid about interrogating solutions and learning, eh? Again, I appreciate the help.