Rb25orange

@GTSBoy sorry I am new here

Any benefits of running solenoid ? While I am at it.

Awesome, Does this also mean I can just fit any charcoal canister that works similar ? Probably will end up going to wreckers, if I don’t find Nissan one close by. Any chance s13 one works ? or any other Nissan/Datsun one that be easy to find. I don’t t care about looks.

Will do, much appreciate the diagrams man been looking everywhere. Its time to get a copy of engine manual I guess. Need bunch of things done right.

Non neo, assuming I won’t need a purge solenoid in my case ?

Yea looking into doing that, Can I confirm the following please. So canister got 3 lines in and out, 1) tank vent to canister (in) 2) canister to atmo (out) somewhere down the chassis rail 3) canister to ? throttle body ? Intake mani ? Don’t t know ?

Good day everyone, I have too many questions, probably thinking from nose right now. Having strong fuel fumes burning my nose every day to from work so Need some urgent help-advise from you legend’s. I am going to keep it sort and straight to start with. I don’t have a personal opinions as yet. But aware of how it works and where what is, but here to see what others have done to resolve it in all directions (legality etc.) Don’t have charcoal canister, never did. Was complete project and long road of making things right one after another I guess that’s how it is for everyone. Anyhow, fuel vent(breather) line is left open in the engine bay. So tank vent to rubber hose to hard line along all other hard lines and open end next to factory fuel filter. Really nasty always sick everyday twice for an hour so please what’s the temporary fix for this, till I gather to do it properly. That said, is anyone running aftermarket canisters relocated else where other than factory spot. Much appreciate all the inputs. Question from own understanding, can I temporarily have it vented at the rear after the rubber hose from vent with a valve or fuel line mesh filter. Would that help me not turning up high at work for a while.

Found it, talking to myself 😅

@GTSBoy thanks mate, been totally strapped at work didn’t get a chance to look up here, at the time rwc guy turned back, was too keen to see em reverse lights so did a bit of dodgy job wiring it straight from the box to rear lamps hahaha, and had him back and should have taken a photo of him smiling lol, @Nathan rfb Mate not too sure how different it might be on a auto loom, green (grey dots) green/white trace was the wiring for me from the big connector next to the fuse box in engine bay area. Same has wiring for neutral switch green/o from memory. If this doesn’t help, the MIGHTY METER worked out for me in the end.

Just Updating for future reference, Tracing back speed signal wire, it is separate signal to the hicas, so from cluster wire splits into two one going to ecu another to straight to hicas. Wire is Y/G color on all units.

It could be, I am yet to check if I am getting a pulsed signal at wire going to pin 53, as in past I took my speedo out, the small device(speed sensor)that creates this signal behind the speedo was all intact and fairly in good condition including wiring and the I did a continuity test from there to wire going to pin53, will update once I have confirmed that. I have been assuming my speed sensor is good I could be wrong though. And I now think hicas could be getting the speed signal independently from the speedo.

Firstly is it even the diagram I should be referring to ? My model year is 1990 gtst If yes, pin 8 in this diagram is the final variable voltage as per speed going to the solenoid? And also it goes to the consult port for the what ? I mean that’s what it looks like, but I am not to sure if it could be going to elsewhere? Also pin 5 says to ecu I have color matched that wire (brown with silver trace dots) it is wire to one of the connectors that engine/ecu harness connects to but the ecu side of that wire has been chopped so don’t know where that should be on the ecu or can I connect this directly to speedo wire going to pin53 on ecu ? It makes sense to me unless ecu is pulsing that signal or is that signal from speedo already pulsed ? my only hopes are with you @GTSBoy🙃 also is there any proper wiring diagram on here that could help me

Yes it does, it concludes my issue is PS solenoid related, my solenoid itself is working though as I wired it yo 6v for time being and it is working but do want to fix it properly as its light all times and doing sharp turns on higher speed (60-70) it feels out of control and tried 4v it feels weird at that level. So yeaa would be nice fixing it properly. Specially when I know it can be done.

But the question is what pin at the ecu is this coming from ? In my case I will need to know this pin on ecu from 33gtst as its 25swaped and currently running stock ecu. But answer to both comp will help people rectify the issue in future.

🖤

That definitely helps man, not to sure though how to test if speed signal from speedo is getting to the ecu (pin53). I am sure a normal multimeter doesn’t have a option to see pwm signals. I guess I need one that measures pwm signal and check at the wire to pin53. however on previous diagnoses I know the sensor is in place behind the speedo and wire from there to pin53 is continuous. @GTSBoy Input please, correct me if wrong, also is there a way to see speed signal at the wire to pin53 to see if the signal is generated at all ? Also from previous conversation, I wanted to know how is the ecu talking to hicas, as the only wire I could find out goes from hicas to ecu. So how does hicas know what assistance is needed if signal from speedo is going straight to ecu and from there to where ? With the diagram I have I can pin8 at the bigger connector of 2 on hicas is controlling the steering rack solenoid, but not sure as said how is hicas getting this info ?

Did you find anything in the end then mate ?

Sorry for my confusing jargo man, Yes I meant the link to the diagram/from previous post of u’s. Definitely can’t afford one atm, I have my whole rear subframe stripped atm, so thought I will bell out all the wiring for the hicas while at it. Have checked my speedo wiring and sensor that all ticks out but I am yet to check pwm at speed signal going to pin53 to be 💯. thanks, much appreciate your help.

Check pin 7 at the ecu is hooked up or not? signal from ecu for tacho at dash, as @GTSBoy said above its pulsed from ecu.

Appreciate that info man, definitely helps sorting some other issues I have been having with idle dropping coming to stop. Atleast I am clear that switch is not bothering my hicas. I will be doing continuity test for my hicas wiring over the weekend, and update. thanks

@GTSBoy Also out of curiosity, do you know what will be the effects of deleting the solenoid off the rack and getting steering shop to blank it ? In that case its just running off the SP and hicas can be completely taken out of the story, but has only done this before ? Also pin 19( PS idle up ). Is it linked to the pressure switch on lines going to rack ? Is it there just to tell the ecu to rev a bit on full locks ?

While I do this temporarily to know working of my ps solenoid, should I just disconnect both plugs at the HCU ? Yes, with a proper workshop grade diagnostics handset. None of the Nissan ECU code pullers will talk to the other CUs on the bus. Can you please put a link to it here, I saw it when you first posted it. Can’t find it now.

Hey everyone I know this has been discussed many times in past. I have gone through most of write up in regards to solving this. So my steering goes light to heavy after 1min or so of starting to drive. Little background — My hicas is deleted other than the wiring and HCU, i.e rear Hicas pump, lines, rack is deleted and fitted with lock bar in rear. That said, I have checked everything wiring related and it is all hooked up— other than below, Questions ? Will not having a steering angle sensor (behind steering wheel) cause this ? Is there a pin on the ecu talking to hicas ? If yes which pin ? I am aware pin 53 is speed wire from speedo, which is getting feed from speedo in my case. HCU itself seems to be working as if I disconnect it, my steering goes heavy from the start. It seems something is causing it to go in fail safe mode. I don’t have hicas light on dash so haven’t done the self diagnose yet. Also does the nissan consult port gives you hicas related codes precisely ? I am in located in Brisbane if anyone can help with the consult tool or point in direction which doesn’t cost kidneys. looking forward to hear from you absolute legends out there 😘