damesta

Did you ever figure this out? My r32 is doing the same thing, 16 flashes when I turn it on and feels like it’s stuck in 3rd gear limp mode, won’t downshift at all. No errors in diag mode, did a fresh fluid flush and it made no difference.

I'm sure it was an attempt to work around the stock a/c relay but it makes no sense because it is triggered from a signal that is coming directly from that relay....so if the stock relay didn't work this one wouldn't either. But anyway....I pulled it out and have been through all of the testing of the circuit per the fsm and everything checks out fine, there is nothing wrong with the wiring/signals or any of the a/c electrical stuff. However, my assumption that the system was empty was correct, so I can't fully test it until the rest of my parts get here and the conversion/recharge is done. The only reason I can think of for someone to do this is if the clutch wouldn't engage because of low pressure and someone assumed the relay wasn't working and tried to add another one.

True, just checked, makes no difference when its unplugged. I guess just I need to do the conversion and charge the system, I'm going to go through all of the testing in the manual but I'm not sure if there is a way to directly test the clutch engagement signal unless the system is pressurized and the pressure switch is working...so kind of hard to determine what the point of that extra relay was.

I haven't tried it unplugged, should the clutch engage if its unplugged? And I completely missed that in the r32 gtr manual, I was thinking it was just the engine section until I looked again. Thanks

As far as I know it is good, however, the new drier I will be installing comes with a new pressure switch so it will be replaced, that is the only pressure switch correct? Or are there 2 of them? What I'm really trying to figure out right now is why this relay was wired into the A/C clutch circuit. Does anyone have the actual a/c wiring diagram for an r32? All I can find is the eccs diagram which shows basic routing but it does not show the full a/c wiring details on it.

Yeah, I already ran through the diagnostics on the climate control, everything checks out ok, sensors and everything all work. But that diagnostic system doesn’t test the clutch, compressor or signal to it as far as I know. I’m really not trying to get it working right now, at this point I’m just trying to make sure it is wired correctly so I can start the r134 conversion.

Hey guys, so I'm starting to dig into my a/c problems on my r32 gts25. I am almost certain the system is empty and the compressor may or may not be good. I have ordered a new seal kit, fittings, expansion valve and drier to start converting it to r124a and fix whatever problems it has at the same time. So first things first, someone did some slight wiring modifications at some point and added this relay to engage the clutch. I'm not sure if this is just replacing a factory relay with a generic one, of if they actually added this relay to the circuit. But this is very much not factory wiring. They have the 12v power coming straight from the battery with an inline fuse and the signal wire to close the circuit and send power to the clutch is coming from the loom (a small blue/red stripe wire). The clutch will not engage when the A/C is on right now and I get no voltage reading on the blue/red stripe wire, however, this may be because there is no pressure in the system and the pressure switch is not sending a signal to it...but if I put 12v to the signal post on the relay then I can manually get the clutch to engage. So what should I do with this relay, completely remove it and return it to stock or use it as is? I know that the blue/red stripe wire originally went straight to the ac clutch single wire plug...so I’m not really sure what the point of installing this relay was to begin with. It does not allow the clutch to be manually engaged or anything like that, it still signals from the original wire and I cannot find any other modifications to the A/C wiring.

I already tested the voltage of the temp sensor and watched it as the engine warmed up, it was all within spec. I’m waiting on my consult cable to get here to be able to look at what the ecu is seeing though. I capped off the cold start valve, like the one you pictured, just to make sure it wasn’t stuck open letting extra air in, but it made no difference, it’s connected normally now.

I made a little bit of a discovery, I figured out that if I let the engine get completely warmed up (like I have to go drive for a little while warm...not just idle until its warmed up), then the idle will drop a few hundred rpm and when I unplug the iacv at that point it has no effect. We are still sitting around 1000 rpm though. Previously I had only been letting it idle until the gauge showed it was warmed up. I also checked the coolant temp sensor voltage and observed it as it warmed up and that was all within spec.

Alright, back to looking at getting a consult program set up then....greatly appreciative of all the info.

Hmmm, does anyone have picture of this flap so I can visualize it? I searched but don't see a flap anywhere on any skyline center plate pictures I could find. But yes, that is exactly what it feels like, would be bottom center of the plate, feels like I am lightly opening and closing a hinged flap with the wire, the closing making the taping noise when it makes contact....could be that I can only hear it because it is closing faster/harder due to the transmission being empty right now. Edit: Found a picture of an os giken gtr center plate with the flap intact, some of the other plate pictures I found of rb20/25 center don't have the flap intact but the hole for it looks lower and more centered than on the gtr box. I'm starting to think this is what I'm hitting, looks like it could move in and out a few mm and make a tap while there is no oil to cushion it.

Probably right....so here’s what I’m thinking. Since it shifts normally and I haven’t noticed any grinding or drivability issues maybe I can save this tranny. I think I’ll drop it out and pull the bell housing so hopefully I can get to the loose part and either remove it or fix it if it’s a clip or something. Then hopefully reassemble and reinstall.

I don't see anything but not the best angles, the area I'm talking about is pretty much right where the bellhousing meets the center plate on the very bottom...its just out of reach for me to touch with my finger through the drain hole but it moves very easily pushing it with a wire. Even if something was supposed to be loose like that in there it shouldn't be loose enough to tap something else and make a noise. Its crazy to me that this tranny shifts normally like this and hasn't torn itself up yet.

Thats what I figured, I have never opened one of these boxes up but I didn't think anything in there should be moving that easily. I was trying to explain as best I could but its not a loose fragment and is not freely bouncing around in there. It is still loosely attached to something (or possible sitting in an area tight enough to prevent it from moving anywhere), I can push on it with my wire lightly and move it up and down to make it do the taping noise, but I cannot freely move it around to where I can get it out.

Is there any reason not to just leave it idle at 1200 then? It’s a little high but if there’s nothing technically wrong I’ll live with it until I put a turbo on and get it tuned.