soviet_merlin

Right, I see what you mean now. Mounting the fuel pump bare in the bottom of the tank without its box does look quite questionable: Compared to using the OEM box for the pump: Just for the record, these are the videos on the hanger and surge tank systems. He explains it quite well.

Okay, good to know that it is not the same kit. There is no baffling in the tank from factory either, no? Possibly Nissan worked against that by feeding the fuel return line back into that little shoe the fuel pump sits in. From what I remember the FPG video mentioned that can actually be problematic if done with a high flow pump. Because the fuel is returned with more pressure through that little spout. There are so many ways to overthink this. It does my head in. I'll see what Unigroup says as well and go from there. It's a shame that the difference between the simple hanger and surge tank setup is ~$700. Add the new lift pump purchase on top and it becomes a bit hard to justify for a car that doesn't see that much action. First world problems I guess.

One more question if you don't mind. Is the first kit you tried the same one as they currently sell as their fuel-pump-hanger kit? https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/collections/fuel-system-kits/products/fpg-bnr32-fuel-pump-hanger-kit-single-fits-stagea-c34-nissan-skyline-gt-r-r32-fpg-087?variant=42131478315186 Because according to their video the low fuel warning thing can be taken from the OEM hanger and attached to their new hanger. Just wondering whether this is the kit you weren't happy with, or whether it's a different revision. Thanks again!

Neat, thanks! There's a Walbro 460 in there currently and it has never bothered me. If it's not getting any worse I'm fine with that. Murphy's law is inviolate. So don't you worry, I've got you covered. I filled up the tank just that morning on the way home. It's about as full as can be. I'm not going to touch it though. The car will go to Unigroup to get it done properly. See how it goes.

Thanks Duncan! Yeah it's street use for me only. Maybe occasional track day. Any difference in noise when running with the two pumps? I would expect the lift pump to be more quiet than the main pump so hopefully not? And yes, unfortunately quite a big price difference to the simple hanger setup. Though I'm usually willing to trade money for better reliability and future-proofing. Buy once, cry once and all that. I'd be very happy to never have to deal with fuel pump / wiring issues again

So, how do you feel about the Frenchys surge tank setup @Duncan? Have you had a chance to try it out more? The sketchy wiring in my fuel pump setup has decided to melt and die and I'm looking for a solid replacement now. My fuel hat is toast so the Frenchys kits providing it all look promising.

Yep, I'd be interested to hear how it works out in the end.

Makes sense, thanks! Consider me very impressed. And I very much appreciate the effort in documentating all of it. You'd be surprised, or maybe not, how many people this reaches who search for things online. Anyways, I shall continue to read all of it, understand maybe a quarter, and hope that some of it sticks if I ever end up in a situation where it's relevant

Purely out of curiosity, how do you know all this @dbm7? Do you work with automatic gearboxes professionally? This goes way way way beyond "I've had an automatic Skyline once and did some mucking around"

Just a thought, maybe it's obvious: have you tried cranking with the accelerator pressed all the way? Not being able to start until a few hours later sounds a bit like a flooded engine. Especially if you open the bonnet and it smells like fuel after cranking. Flooring the pedal helps then.

Half anticipating the next question then: I have two magnets stuck in my oil pan. What should I do?

It's flawless. (Except for major maintenance bill that non-car people would feel salty about for years afterwards) Just kidding. Life's too short to be bored driving a Camry.

I agree with you there! Go with nice genuine seats for a GTR. Even if you don't drive the car a lot, the time you do drive you'll be sitting in one of those seats. And it's the first thing you see when you open the door. I think it's worth getting quality parts for the things that you interact with _all the time_ when driving.

Hah, I have no issues with what you are doing whatsoever! You clearly know what you are getting yourself into. It's just funny reading things like this. "What's that noise?" "Oh, that's normal. That's just the engine not getting any oil. Nothing to worry about. It'll go away in a moment"

I always find it both fascinating and educating seeing you go through all this. It's a bit like "BMWs are great. Except with one massive caveat: as long as you fix this two page long list of things where components are broken by design" Every now and then I consider getting a BMW. And then I read your posts and think that maybe the RB life is not so bad after all

I presume you are talking about a C34? Have you seen the buyers guide? https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92065-buyers-guide-the-nissan-c34-stagea/ It's what got me to sign up to the forums when I bought mine. What kind of insight are you after? Up front I'd probably suggest to not get tempted by the poverty-spec models. I can't imagine a RB20DE to be engaging to drive in a 1600kg car.

Looks like they changed the wording in the manual for the new model. I have a different model. Mine is CC1206. Not CC1206-XLI. Mine doesn't support lithium at all. I can't find the manual for my model online and they don't list the model on the Century website anymore either. In my manual it says what I quoted and that they recommend to not leave it on 🤷‍♂️ Sounds like you'd be fine with this one now.

Thanks for actually answering every single point! I noticed the date only after posting. And yes, looks like things have changed a little bit since then. FWIW, looks like Government Gazette No 253 has the current emissions test procedure. Sounds pretty reasonable altogether. One thing I learned from this is that it's possible to check whether a catalyst does any work by measuring the temperature. Catalyst outlet temp is at least 40°C higher than inlet temps if there is a reaction happening. I'd be curious to check this on mine but don't have a thermometer. Because purely going by smell it can't be doing much. Personally I'd be okay to pay for the test as long as it's within reason. My main concern would be to lose my rego because it definitely wouldn't pass the test in its current state. I'll see if I can do a bit more digging and see what's involved in doing this nowadays. To be fair I don't think it's stopping many people from doing the modifications anyway. It just puts a barrier up to doing things right

Where did you get the test done? What did it cost? Can you just book an appointment? And I presume it's independent so failing would not mean suddenly having an unregisterable car? I would like to make some exhaust changes on my car and would love to get before and after results to see how much of a difference it makes. If it's in Botany even better as that is pretty much local.

Suspect it's a bot / low effort scam account posting somewhat reasonable but otherwise random stuff.

I have the Century CC1206 12V 1/3/6Amp 9 Stage Battery Charger. It is different from the one you linked but I don't know in what way. Their manual says that it both can be left on 24/7 and that it shouldn't be left on 24/7. Go figure ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I haven't been game to leave it on there for more than 2 days.

Yup, this is my main concern with Enthusiast. Purely based on the wording in the PDS they have zero obligation to pay me anything. I wonder how it works out in practice because I would expect that the number of actually street-legal modified cars would be rather small. Does Shannons have a similar statement in their PDS?

Had a good chuckle because it is listing THC g/km. Though it is not tetrahydrocannabinol but total hydrocarbons. Interesting how the numbers seem so much worse compared to Greg's big V8.

I would hope so. I worry that it also might depend on whether the person working on the claim has had a good day or not. I can imagine that for example modified brakes would be an easy thing to point to for affecting the outcome of an accident. I don't know. I will keep paying my premium and hope for the best. But at the same time keep safe distances, drive defensively and avoid dickhead P-platers in lifted utes

I presume it would take more than just slapping a big modern catalyst on the exhaust? It's interesting though, looking at the old sales brochures and listings it does not mention anything about emissions. No one cared.