soviet_merlin

Half anticipating the next question then: I have two magnets stuck in my oil pan. What should I do?

It's flawless. (Except for major maintenance bill that non-car people would feel salty about for years afterwards) Just kidding. Life's too short to be bored driving a Camry.

I agree with you there! Go with nice genuine seats for a GTR. Even if you don't drive the car a lot, the time you do drive you'll be sitting in one of those seats. And it's the first thing you see when you open the door. I think it's worth getting quality parts for the things that you interact with _all the time_ when driving.

Hah, I have no issues with what you are doing whatsoever! You clearly know what you are getting yourself into. It's just funny reading things like this. "What's that noise?" "Oh, that's normal. That's just the engine not getting any oil. Nothing to worry about. It'll go away in a moment"

I always find it both fascinating and educating seeing you go through all this. It's a bit like "BMWs are great. Except with one massive caveat: as long as you fix this two page long list of things where components are broken by design" Every now and then I consider getting a BMW. And then I read your posts and think that maybe the RB life is not so bad after all

I presume you are talking about a C34? Have you seen the buyers guide? https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92065-buyers-guide-the-nissan-c34-stagea/ It's what got me to sign up to the forums when I bought mine. What kind of insight are you after? Up front I'd probably suggest to not get tempted by the poverty-spec models. I can't imagine a RB20DE to be engaging to drive in a 1600kg car.

Looks like they changed the wording in the manual for the new model. I have a different model. Mine is CC1206. Not CC1206-XLI. Mine doesn't support lithium at all. I can't find the manual for my model online and they don't list the model on the Century website anymore either. In my manual it says what I quoted and that they recommend to not leave it on 🤷‍♂️ Sounds like you'd be fine with this one now.

Thanks for actually answering every single point! I noticed the date only after posting. And yes, looks like things have changed a little bit since then. FWIW, looks like Government Gazette No 253 has the current emissions test procedure. Sounds pretty reasonable altogether. One thing I learned from this is that it's possible to check whether a catalyst does any work by measuring the temperature. Catalyst outlet temp is at least 40°C higher than inlet temps if there is a reaction happening. I'd be curious to check this on mine but don't have a thermometer. Because purely going by smell it can't be doing much. Personally I'd be okay to pay for the test as long as it's within reason. My main concern would be to lose my rego because it definitely wouldn't pass the test in its current state. I'll see if I can do a bit more digging and see what's involved in doing this nowadays. To be fair I don't think it's stopping many people from doing the modifications anyway. It just puts a barrier up to doing things right

Where did you get the test done? What did it cost? Can you just book an appointment? And I presume it's independent so failing would not mean suddenly having an unregisterable car? I would like to make some exhaust changes on my car and would love to get before and after results to see how much of a difference it makes. If it's in Botany even better as that is pretty much local.

Suspect it's a bot / low effort scam account posting somewhat reasonable but otherwise random stuff.

I have the Century CC1206 12V 1/3/6Amp 9 Stage Battery Charger. It is different from the one you linked but I don't know in what way. Their manual says that it both can be left on 24/7 and that it shouldn't be left on 24/7. Go figure ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I haven't been game to leave it on there for more than 2 days.

Yup, this is my main concern with Enthusiast. Purely based on the wording in the PDS they have zero obligation to pay me anything. I wonder how it works out in practice because I would expect that the number of actually street-legal modified cars would be rather small. Does Shannons have a similar statement in their PDS?

Had a good chuckle because it is listing THC g/km. Though it is not tetrahydrocannabinol but total hydrocarbons. Interesting how the numbers seem so much worse compared to Greg's big V8.

I would hope so. I worry that it also might depend on whether the person working on the claim has had a good day or not. I can imagine that for example modified brakes would be an easy thing to point to for affecting the outcome of an accident. I don't know. I will keep paying my premium and hope for the best. But at the same time keep safe distances, drive defensively and avoid dickhead P-platers in lifted utes

I presume it would take more than just slapping a big modern catalyst on the exhaust? It's interesting though, looking at the old sales brochures and listings it does not mention anything about emissions. No one cared.

That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php

If it is indeed the steering column shroud then it appears jpjdm has one in stock. Whether it looks any better than yours or is worth the money is up to you to decide https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php?id_product=2686&rewrite=nissan-skyline-r33-steering-column-surround-complete-48470 Personally I'd suggest to check epc-data to see whether it still exists new. Or yahoo auctions in Japan.

Huh, you are driving a Subaru now? Or maybe it is you who is driving up RB prices...

Looking forward to see if you can find something decent Duncan. I'm with Enthusiast. They seem happy enough to take my money but I have never claimed. I'm also also not convinced they would pay. Because, as per their PDS: I've ECU, exhaust, intake, intercooler, engine, turbo, fuel system, radiator, brakes, suspension and wheels listed on the insurance policy. But none of it is engineered or formally signed off. I presume that makes it not comply with ADRs. Because anything that might get defected goes against those rules, right? Their other gotcha is parking on the street at home. Which is probably fine, but still. Overall, + Can set salvage rights on the policy + Able to list modifications + Agreed value insurance - Question mark on whether they would pay a claim. The terms seem to hedge against it. - Only listed drivers on the policy are insured. I treat and drive the car like I am not insured.

Might have to @Dose Pipe Sutututu him

Love the purple accents in the car! It all comes together really well with the cage, boss kit and other little bits. Nice work all around! What colour are you thinking for paint?

Out of curiosity, what's the reason for converting? I think @R3N3 might have the Frenchy's kit in the R33? I somehow think of you as the ambassador for realistic and clean street-driven setups nowadays

Does the high temp fluid degrade any different over time compared to normal one? That's one thing I've always been wondering. Because a track car is going to get the fluid flushed probably way more often than every two years and will see less kilometers driven. I would think the requirements are different. I'm running Motul RBF 600 in mine. Was recommended by my mechanic before a trackday and I've stuck with it since. Hasn't seen the track since but I've kept buying and using it for servicing anyway.

Holy mother of downforce!

Haha, the appropriate response to the question "Is this new?" is "I've had this for a while.". With the unspoken small print that a while may be the time since this morning or five years ago And to be fair I learned that from the best, i.e. my wife. Because it goes both ways.