boosted32

i got it all fixed about a week ago. The only thing i need to do is make a round bit of metal to go over the lock mechanism so u cant stick things in it... they were not sure how i wanted it to look so they just tidied up the buggered lock and left it for me to sort out. door & handle look like new now... all the little scratches that appear over the years are gone now. be nice to paint the whole car

thats low with the king springs do the shocks still bottom-out on the highest setting?

when u say the 'radiator bar' do you mean the first bit of chassy u can see when you look under the front of the car? I checked mine and it sits ~180mm from the ground and my car is pretty low... if yours is ~120+30 (150mm) that is damn low... for reference, my rim-centre to guard distance is a bit less than 320mm. does that sond right to u?

Clint, I am going to do the same conversion... I have a 33 box, but I have not got a slip yoke yet... I would be very interested in getting a one piece tailshaft (u are doing a 1 piece?) done at the same place u get yours done (i need to find a 33 yoke/tailshaft obviously).

hippy... I got the quote from beverly auto repair... near the basketball stadium... used them before, they are ok

just an update... about $400 to repair it, that includes: weld up damage and paint entire door, rubber seal around handle, clean up door handle and replace lock (i probably wont get the lock replaced though - just plug it up - dont need 2 locks... one less lock for them to butcher with a screw driver) I like the idea of the alarm switch on the door handle. So u could put it in series with the door switch/interior light switch?? Also, in the pic u can see an activation lever through the hole... this is from the door handle... there is another lever that should have been attached to the back of the lock mechanism... the twits knocked the lever off the lock while they were butchering the door... so there was no way they could have gotten in unless they made an even bigger hole right to the actual catch mechanism of the door... I am not planning on putting this lever back on either... i removed it on my previous car as well.

thanks for all the replies... and all the lectures I was actually wondering if they had cameras around that entrance... with all those kids that always hang around they may have some... there weren't any kids at all today though

yep I have an immobiliser, alarm, shock sensor, etc... so they wouldn't have got far if they had actually opened the door... I was parked near cafe primo... just near the padestrian crossing just outside the main door... off to the right a bit... I could easily see my car from the cafe and there weren't that many cars in the park either. the only reason we took the skyline tonight was cos i was parked in front of the gf's car...

.

went to the movies tonight (TTP)... come out to find someone has tried to break into my car... passenger side door lock... I have nothing to say that hasn't been said before... just thought I'd share it with everyone... here's a couple of pics I took of the damage... not too bad I guess...

I thought I'd post a reply with my recent experience with this stalling problem... When my car was allowed to idle it would idle fine for about 10 seconds then the pump would stop completely (no sound from pump at all), then about 4 seconds later the engine would cut out (no fuel of course). As mentioned in this thread, the pump control module normally goes into low speed pump mode by switching in some kind of resistor on the earth of the pump. We wired the pump earth straight to ground and the problem was completely solved. We aren't completely sure of the cause, but there seem to be 2 possibilities: 1) I have an after-market pump and with a resisted earth it doesn't have enough power to run. 2) The resistor circuitry in the pump control module is buggered and not working. We are considering swapping out the pump control module (located behind the panel on the right hand side of the boot) for a known working module out of another car. An interesting result of the stalling problem is that we couldn't get the car to idle at less that about 1100rpm. This would seem to make sense as the pump control module has a RPM feed and may only kick in at less than about 1100rpm. With a proper earth the car idles stable at 750rpm even though we haven't been able to tune it at that RPM yet.

The rotors were around 230ish each from memory. Yeah... have to see how the greenstuff goes.. heard good and bad about them. Sprayed caliper by taking it off (had to anyway cos replacing discs and pads), but leaving brake line attached. Scrubbed it in metho, then turps, washed it off with water and dried it... masked it up and sprayed it. also used copper spray to lube averything, this stuff is meant to be good.

.....

....

...

Just replaced my front brakes... disks and pads... used EBC turbo groove disks and greenstuff pads. only done 30kms with them but they feel good so far and no squeel. Painted the calipers gold at the same time... looks nice in the sun!! what u reckon...

I could be interested in swapping my modded R32... I think it's going to have too much power for what I want. I'm not sure yet though... See pics here: http://members.fortunecity.com/boosted32/ I still have to fit a new gearbox and sort out a stalling problem that happens every now and again when I come to a stop. It easily makes 210+rwkw depending on how much boost u run. Tuned by Tillbrook (martin donnan).

plastic welding done at: Headlamp Supplies & plastic crash repairs 28 Holland street, Thebarton 8443 7077 (I cut the bumper myself) Painted at: Beverley auto Repairs 128 William Street, Beverly 8268 7364 Just see what prices they can do... I got it done a while ago and we did some of the preparation ourself so it was cheaper.

I'll come on a cruise when I get a chance!! I have been in cairns for 3 weeks... am going to singapore middle of next month and leicester in england at the end of october. All for work... we are installing our software system. So I haven't had a chance to finish the red car... still have to put in standard cams and retune... and fit my R33 box and get tailshaft shortened... then I can cruise... so maybe November... urgh

Got the mesh from car toys on port road, just up from south road.

I got mine done by someone in Thebarton I think... about $100 to weld it... then about $150 to paint the whole bar at a paint place. Can find out their name if ur interested.

If plugs are fouling often then u are probably running too rich. I fouled a set of new platinums after only 100kms before i got it tuned properly. It would still run but was missing badly.

I reckon I could take the red car in a couple of months... could be interesting... wheelspin the whole track :lol: will definitely need wider tyres.

Yup, I'm here...

I posted this in the wanted section... http://forums.skylinesaustralia.com/showth...s=&threadid=781 Can anyone help out?