Dustin Frazee

That was what I was afraid of that it might only be possible with the engine out or at least lifted up. I have a new line from Nissan but not seeing how it will be possible to get the old one out and the new one in. Maybe after a few drinks I will figure something out. Might try removing motor mounts and lifting the engine a bit to get some more clearance. There are just a few weird bends in the line that make it impossible to feed through the openings.

I have B and C unbolted. I have the line out of the rack and pinion but how and the heck do I get the C end out between the body and engine? I am working on my stock 91 GTR. So it have everything in the way. I did not know if there was something else I need to remove to pull the line out. I am attempting to pull the line towards the front. Everything is still in the car, engine and all. I was hoping the line could be replaced without removing too much, but I search for about a week and could not find any info on how to do it. So I just started removing it hoping I would see the way. All brackets for the line are removed and both ends undone. Just can not figure out how to fish the line between where the sensor is and the C end. I appreciate all the help and after spending an hours staring at and trying to search the topic it I figured I would ask you guys

I got everything unbolted. I just can not maneuver the line out. It is the part from the sensor to the rack and pinion I am having difficulties with. It has the J shaped end and I am not seeing how it can come out.

Anyone have any tips on replacing the high pressure PS line on a R32 GTR? Mine started leaking and got a new one but can not for the life of me figure out how to get the old one off. I took the sway bar off and disconnected the steering shaft but can not figure out how to get the end that connects to the rack out. I did not want to cut the old one off cause if I can not get the old one off I am sure I will not be able to get the new one on.

Yeah I put some new fuel in and still the same. Should I be running the little regulator thing with the new pump? I am not sure if it is a check valve or what.

That is what happened to my stock pump. The walbro was new and not used, but I have had it about a year waiting til my stock one kicked the bucket. Surely it would not go bad from not being used if it had never been used.

Has anyone ever had problems with the Walbro 255lph fuel pump. I have a pretty stock R32 GTR and was running fine and pulled well through boost with low knock. I decided to put a Walbro GSS342 255lph on cause my stock pump seemed to be given up from setting around. With the Walbro my knock goes through the roof if I try to make a pull. I ran a 12v to the back on a relay cause I thought it might not be getting enough juice. The car ran great last I drove it about 6 months ago. I have had the car in a storage container waiting on a new radiator. The pump was bought from amazon so was thinking I might have got a knock off. Do fuel pressure regulators go bad? Should I just buy a Tomei pump or look for other issues.

I finally figured it out. Well one of the few things I did fixed it. Went for a 30 minute drive and never messed up. I believe it was the fuel pump. I ordered a new one before I took my old one off. The old one was really rusty, and the sock was very dirty. So I cleaned it all up and cleaned the connections on the pump. Decided to throw it back in while I waited for the new one and drove great. I also replaced a fuse in my viper security system that was blown and then I cleaned up the battery terminal. I was just grasping for straws but think it was the fuel pump not getting enough fuel. Thanks for the help.

I forgot I did jump it with a 200 amp battery charger before I got a new battery. Is there wires that might have fried or like a immobilizer that could be causing the issue?

The battery actually had to be replaced because it was no good. It was probably in for about 6 months. It is on a battery tender now.

Nothing out of the ordinary. Well with what I can see on the hand controller. No weird high knock or voltage drops. It will still boost normal but then it does what it has been doing. I will have a new pump in it in a few days. If that doesn't help I think I will look at the connections on the ecu and wires. I will probably check for boost leaks which I don't think I have. Seems like something that resets after the key is turned off and back on. Car has new plugs and injectors. It ran fine for a while then I let it sit in storage for a while and been chasing random little issues.

Hi, I have a problem with my 91 R32 GTR. I usually am able to find answers through old post but I can not find one like this. Car is running an Apexi ECU. When the car is warm about 5-10 minutes of driving it will start not reving and pulling to redline. It is like a rev limiter at like 5500rpm or sometimes 4500rpm. The longer I drive the lower the limit goes under load. If I stop and shut the car off for a few minutes. When I start it back up it will pull to redline like normal. Then few minutes later back to limp mode or something. I have already cleaned and soldered the MAFs. Just cleaned the coils packs and dielectric greased them. I was wondering if anyone else knows where I might look for my issue. When it starts cutting out it does not backfire or cause the car to buck much at all. It is like the car just shuts off. Going to replace the fuel pump soon. After that I am not sure if I should be chasing a bad ground down or what.