SLIXK

Yeah, it’s only tinny when you play back on the phone, I’ve got a straight pipe 3” so In person it sounds proper.

Camera doesn’t do it justice but it sounds mint and about 3x better in person, camera doesn’t catch the bass and it sounds tinny on camera. IMG_7610.mov

So it’s all done now, and idk what you’re all crying about but it sounds sick irl, camera doesn’t really do it justice. But I’ll record it when I get a good camera lol

Technically it turns off a cylinder with rotational idle , which means technically less fuel used at idle

Yeah mate 😂

The video the guy posted shows him using those settings aswell.

Yeah give us a geeze.

Can’t even hear anything lol, but there’s plenty of videos with it sounding good, what cams are in there ?

Nope, it’s leaking again.

Yeah it would but I’m just saying that to everyone saying it would sound like shit with my cams

That’s an example of what it sounds like with factory cams.

Will do.. I’ve seen a few videos from the front of the engine doesn’t sound bad imo… but I have heard someone with stock neo cams from the front it yeah it sounds like shit.

I’ll send a vid once it sounds like shit, old timer.

It’s like asking me why have I deleted the bov, why did I opt for t51r mod, they don’t give you any power difference but it makes your car more fun to drive.

To sound like a legend obviously??? Rotational Idle is used to maintain a normal low idle speed when a fixed larger amount of air is being used for lift-off Anti-Lag purposes, or you just want to sound like a legend when your engine does not perform. So do you have settings for me ??

That’s above the rear diff I’m sure Can I access the actuator to disconnect it without dropping the diff, and I’ve used 2 different set of wheels and it shakes and binds with both, and how can you de-power the pump, also if none of that works could my diff be getting stuck somehow?

Attessa actuator to transfer case flange fixed

Factory diff as far as I know.. unless someone changed it in Japan

Getting poncams installed tommorow, and wondering if anyone has or knows of good settings for the rotational idle (haltech) with the same cams or similar spec 260/260 9.15 lift. There’s a few vids on YouTube with the same cams and they sound pretty lumpy for what it is, I just wanna have a muck around with it before the tuner does.

This is my stagea with r33 gearbox, I just had the box rebuilt not long ago, but we have found out this part is leaking, could that cause the symptoms I’m having?

Is the actuator block located on the gearbox ? My gearbox is recently rebuilt, replaced clutch packs with good condition ones also.

I have a c34 rs4v , I have the plug play adapter harness so the 2500 elite plugs into the factory loom. Guy who tuned car mentioned that part you’ve listed when I told him about the shudder, but he ended up saying it’s built into the adapter harness.. unsure of diff but it should be factory, I’ve never changed it. Car came from Japan at 70xxx kms. TPS is out of a RWD stagea.

Yes

Yes, goes away when I pull the front shaft

So basically my car randomly starts binding asif I have my centre diff locked, It seems to get triggered the most when I’m parking (back & fourths with sharp steering) or turning sharp really slowly, or sometimes it’s just happens when I’m driving, so when this “lock” feeling is active my car shudders when accelerating asif the car is still locked in awd. I’ve had this issue ever since I have had the car tuned with a GTR 33 box, I’ve rebuilt gearbox, replace clutch packs with hood condition ones, reconditioned prop shaft, full hard race suspension. My car used to be auto also but diffs are still the same. I’m using haltech elite 2500 with the harness adapter. I used a RWD TPS, would that affect the signal to the atessa in anyway?